greece – Adventures In The South of Spain

Larnaca, Cyprus: Beautiful Beach, Ancient History, and Great Food

February 2-9, 2026

I must confess to knowing next to nothing about Cyprus prior to our trip there this winter. Its mild February temperatures were the main draw, and I had read some positive travel sites about it. The island is divided into Greek Cyprus in the south and Turkish Cyprus in the north. The Republic of Cyprus (Greek) is part of the EU. Turkish Cyprus is currently only recognized by Turkey.

We flew Aegean Air from Athens to Larnaca, about an hour and a half flight. Larnaca Airport is small and easy to navigate. We had arranged a taxi driver through our Air B and B host and after a 30 minute ride, we arrived at Finikoudes Beach. Our rental apartment was perfectly situated along the boardwalk and had beautiful seaside views. We were walking distance to everything we needed. There was a well-stocked mini-mart next door, owned and operated by a delightful Cypriot family. Multiple dining options and coffee shops line the beachfront. I could drink coffee in a different spot every day. And it is always served with a cookie and a smile!

The historic old town is only a few streets from the beach. St. Lazarus Church and Monastery and the surrounding artisan shops give an old world vibe to the neighborhood that contrasts with the holiday atmosphere of the waterfront.

Larnaca is family-oriented. Prices are affordable for middle-class Greek Cypriots to go for a long weekend or a family vacation. It also attracts visitors and retirees from the UK and other European countries. Jobs in the hotel and restaurant industries attract immigrants from Sri Lanka, India, the Philippines, Vietnam, Eastern Europe, and the Middle East. All of which gives Larnaca a vibrant international vibe.

Away from the beach and the old town, the city of Larnaca is expanding outward and upward. Construction of new buildings seems to be everywhere: apartments, offices, and business hotels. With that, of course, comes traffic.

Below: Some scenes of the beach and the promenade.

Finikudes Beach has a long stretch of fine golden sand and clean, clear water. I love the feel of the sand under my feet and the water on my toes. The Mediterranean is still pretty chilly in February, but some swimmers and waders brave it. Other popular activities include sailing, beach volleyball, pickleball, and cricket.

If you walk along the boardwalk, you will pass Larnaca Castle, a physical reminder of Larnaca’s long history. This has been a defensive site since Byzantine times, but the current fortress was likely built in the 1300’s AD, and then repurposed by the Ottoman’s in the 1600’s. Despite it’s uncertain provenance, it is worth the small entry fee (2 euros) and 20 minutes of your time to stroll the grounds and climb the ramparts for great views of the Mediterranean. There is a small museum with a few cabinets containing medieval artifacts and some wall displays of old photos of the harbor.

A couple of streets inland from the Castle is the Church and Monastery of St. Lazarus. The current church was built in 900 AD, but the story is much, much older. We visited the Church and the small Byzantine Museum in the former monastery. Inside of the beautiful Eastern Orthodox church is an ornate silver reliquary containing some bones of St. Lazarus. Below the main floor of the church is the tomb of St. Lazarus.

But wait, I wondered, recalling New Testament teachings. “THE Lazarus, brought back from the dead by Jesus?” Or a later in history Lazarus? There was a lack of helpful signage, so I approached the woman at the ticket counter of the museum.

“Good morning. I have a question.”

“Of course.”

“Is this THE Lazarus or were there two?”

“Yes, Lazarus of the Resurrection.”

“Brought back from the dead by Jesus?”

“Yes.”

“But, wait, how did he get here?”

“By boat. After the Crucifixion, he and his family came here. He became the Archbishop of Larnaca.”

Huh. Who knew? I followed up with some online research, and Church records corroborate the story. Here is a brief summary of what I found: (Wikipedia, History Hit, World History Encyclopedia)

-Lazarus, brother to Martha and Mary, and friend to Jesus, died of disease (circa 40 AD).

-After 4 days in a tomb in Bethany (near Jerusalem), Lazarus was resurrected by Jesus (John 11 )

-Fleeing persecution, he landed in KItion (present day Larnaca, Cyprus) He was ordained bishop by the Apostles Paul and Barnabus, and lived another 30 years. He was buried where his tomb lies today.

-In 890 AD, a marble sarcophagus was discovered with the inscription “Lazarus, friend of Christ.”

– Some (not all) of his relics were moved to Constantinople by Byzantine Emperor Leo VI, who ordered the construction of the church on top of the tomb. The church has suffered damage over the centuries, but careful restoration has been true to the original. It was converted to a mosque during the Ottoman Occupation (1571–1878), and then reinstated as an Eastern Orthodox church.

If you visit Larnaca, don’t skip this church. Besides its fascinating story, it is also gives you a chance to witness the local life away from the beach. The post office is across the street for anyone (besides me) who still mails postcards. There are two nice cafes in the church square, where you can choose a spot in the sun or the shade and enjoy a relaxing snack break.

Below: The Silver Reliquary and the Tomb of St. Lazarus in Larnaca

Below: Sunrise and Moonrise on the Mediterranean

Below: Some photos of food and coffee we enjoyed in Larnaca. There were plenty of dining options a short walk from our home base. In the winter season, reservations are not necessary. Portions are generous, I recommend sharing.

**Celebrating on our final night** **at Hobo’s Steakhouse**

Daytrip to Nicosia

An hour bus ride from Larnaca is the capital city of Nicosia. I had read that it is the last divided city in existence, at least officially. There is a United Nations Demilitarized Zone and a Green Line. This sounded intriguing so we planned a day trip to Nicosia.

We bought our bus passes at the main terminal, a ten minute walk to the end of the promenade. The bus stop was right across the street from our apartment. It rained on the day we went; one of our few rain days in Cyprus. Unfortunately, nothing ever looks as good in the rain. We hunkered under our umbrella and walked from the bus depot to the Paphos Gate, the last city gate through the city walls built by the Venetians (1489-1571). We walked through the gate for an outside view of what’s left of the wall. There wasn’t much to see, so we headed back in. Near the gate, inside the walls, is The Church of the Holy Cross, a Catholic Church. There are still Roman Catholics in Cyprus, even though most of the country is Eastern Orthodox. The rear exit of the church is sealed as it is on the Turkish side. On a hill beyond the church, a Turkish flag was visible. Other than that, we saw no evidence of the divided city or UN Green Line.

To get out of the rain, we headed to the Archeological Museum of Cyprus. This museum is a treat. Each gallery featured artifacts from a different time period in Cypriot history, so a walk through the museum is a visual walk through the island’s people from the Stone Age (10,00 BC) and Bronze Age (2400-1200 BC) through the Roman Empire (30 BC-600 AD). The audio guides are excellent , although a bit long winded for my taste. There were very few visitors, so we could take our time and get close to all of the displays. I was blown away by the scope of human history displayed here. These ancient people had a complex civilization. Cyprus was an important center for commerce during the Bronze Age, because they mined copper. This led to prosperous trading and a wealthy merchant class.

When we came out of the museum, the rain had let up. We walked toward the historic center in search of a coffee and some food. We found a cozy spot for a typical Cypriot brunch. Ledra Street is the pedestrian area lined with shops and restaurants. At one end of Ledra street is an unassuming booth. That is a checkpoint to enter the Turkish side. Although we had fully intended to cross, we realized we had left Larnaca without our passports. Those were safely stowed back at our apartment and we were carrying our passport cards, which might have sufficed, but we weren’t willing to chance it. Since we just toured Turkey last October, we weren’t too devastated. My passport has a Turkish stamp. Still, if you go to Nicosia, remember your passport! (and take some photos for me)

After brunch, we strolled to the nearby modern section of Nicosia.

From Larnaca, we are headed to the city of Limassol, Cyprus. Thank you for reading!

Geri

Soak Up The Sun in Scenic Chania

February 23-March 5, 2026

We flew from Paphos, Cyprus to Chania, Crete via Ryan Air. We arrived on time and after a quick baggage claim and passport inspection, we met Manolis, the taxi driver, arranged by our host. The drive from the airport was pleasant; we enjoyed seeing a little of the Cretan countryside with its rolling hills, olive trees, and vineyards.

Tosis, our host met us on the street and carried my luggage, while expressing his pleasure to meet us and proudly pointing out the features of our home for the next ten days. The building belonged to a governor during the Venetian Occupation (13th-17th century). The first level was his office and library and living area was above. We are staying in the restored and refurbished archive area. In keeping with strict archeological standards, the stone archways are original, the ceiling heights and window frame measurements are as they were in the 1300’s. The balcony metalwork was reproduced to strict historical requirements. Even wall paint colors must be approved.The stone archways are original , the wooden entry door is 100 years old. The antique furnishings blend seamlessly with the modern amenities. Tosi had equipped the bathroom and kitchen with essential items to get us started, even homemade biscuits and jam and a bottle of his private label wine.

He proudly showed us the bedroom and living room, both with floor to ceiling glass doors that open out to small balconies that overlook the Venetian Harbor, the lighthouse and the Palazzo below. I feel like I’m living on a movie set. Bill looked out the window one morning to see tourists taking pictures of our balcony.

Below: Photos of our “Palazzo” and its Views

**The 14th Century Arch between the kitchen and the front rooms**

We are in a great location for walking, so we take walks along the water and through town 2-3 times a day. Sometimes we have a destination, but mostly we just enjoy the sunshine and mild temperatures, stopping into a church, or a shop, or a charming local spot to enjoy a coffee.

**The Hill Down from our Place to Town**

We took a walking tour with Iosif of Air B and B experiences. Being the off-season, the group tour was private. For two hours, he walked us through town, sharing the history of Chania, pointing out the architectural features of the buildings and the stories behind them. I can now distinguish a Venetian home from an Ottoman home. The iron balconies are Venetian homes and the wooden enclosures are Ottoman. The architectural styles mirror the lives of the women: Venetian ladies participated in village street life, while their Muslim neighbors remained cloistered inside of their homes.

We left the “main drag” to stroll back alleys and narrow lanes, knowing we were walking on top of millennia of human history. Humans have lived and died in this part of the world since the Paleolithic Age. (more on that when we visit the Archeology Museum of Chania). Due to natural disasters (earthquakes and tsunamis) and wars, remains of the Byzantine era (330-1200 AD) and the subsequent Arab occupation (824-961 AD) are scarce, but parts of the original Byzantine city wall are still visible. Many more of Chania’s buildings from the Venetian (1204-1645 AD) and Ottoman (1645-1898 AD) occupations can be seen today. The different cultures are most obvious in the places of worship that have served as Orthodox churches or as mosques, at various times. Our tour finished with Greek coffee on the waterfront where old Greek men play backgammon with their friends.

Below: Some sites from our tour of Old Town, Chania

Iosif suggested we visit Chania’s Archeological Museum, so we made that our outing the next day. It was a 40 minute walk (with some uphill) to the opposite shore from the Venetian Port. The museum has a fine collection of local finds from the Stone Age through Roman times. The displays are nicely curated and the audio tour is very helpful. We especially appreciated the story of the Miser’s House in which an entire family fell victim to an earthquake in 365 AD, because instead of evacuating, they went back into the house to retrieve their valuables.

Below: Just a sampling of the items in the Archeology Museum.

The Chania Folklore Museum is a funky little place next to the Catholic Church. It is filled with farming tools, vintage looms, sewing machines, flatirons, rugs, tapestries, and linens. When we visited, I was able to chat with a local crafter who sewed scenes of her home village from memory.

Below: Handmade Items from The Folklore Museum

Another local experience in Chania is the Saturday Market. Fresh produce, olive oil, honey, and cheeses cover the tables lined up on two sides of Minoos Street. It is a great place to grab a fresh grilled souvlaki with a slice of bread for 1.5 euro; a little bit more for a “plate” and a beverage that is served at a sidewalk table, perfect for people watching. We met a nice Canadian couple there and have dinner plans with them tomorrow night.

Below: Market Photos

Chania has great dining options. Sadly, one of the downsides of winter travel is that many businesses shut down until the “season.” But not to worry, we have not gone hungry. There is still a variety of restaurants, taverns, and cafes to enjoy local Cretan specialties, fresh seafood, mouthwatering breads, dips, meat, pasta, vegetarian dishes, and sweets. Once the calendar turned to March, more places have opened. Be aware that portions are meant to be shared! Prices range from modest to fairly high end. We have yet to have a bad meal in Chania. I’m not a restaurant critic, but I’ll name a few of our favorites: Canale, AlmyVita, Manos, Pallas,

Below: Cretan Cuisine

If you come to Crete, I hope you like cats. Just as on Cyprus, cats rule here. They mainly live outside and appear to have their turf. There are two that frequent our courtyard and get quite loud at times. I’m not sure if we are expected to feed them; that was not listed in the house rules. On cold nights, there is one who joins us at the door hoping for an invitation to enter. We have not succumbed, even though we once loved our own two cats.

Below: Cats of Crete

The Maritime Museum is also worth a visit. It has a number of ship models, a model of Chania during the Venetian Occupation, old photographs of the harbor, and rooms full of Crete’s naval history. Your ticket includes access to Firka Fortress with sweeping views of the harbor and lighthouse.

Below: Shots from the Maritime Museum and Firka Fortress:

Below: Black and White Photos of Chania

I hope you have enjoyed reading about Chania, Crete and that you are inspired to travel in whatever style works for you. Thank you for reading. Geri

Athens : Modern Comforts Amid Ancient Wonders

50 Years Later

I visited Athens as a college student in December, 1975. Bill had never been there, so we decided to make it our launch point for a winter abroad. Having immersed ourselves in the ancient worlds of Sicily and Turkey this past year, it seemed only logical to circle back to ancient Greece. Bill’s sister Betty joined us for the adventure.

I was curious to see if the city has changed much and to determine who has aged better, me, or the Parthenon. Now to be fair, the Parthenon has had a lot of work done, but she looks amazing for her 2,472 years of exposure to natural and human forces. My mere 70 years cannot compare.

We arrived in Athens at 3:00 am, local time after an actual 24 hours of travel. Our flight from Chicago to Munich, then Munich to Athens was delayed leaving O’Hare, and after an hour in flight, the captain announced that we were turning around, dumping fuel and returning to Chicago for repairs to the navigation system. This was a first for us and one I could do without. After 3-4 hours waiting in Chicago and missing our connection, we were once again on our way. In Munich, we faced another 4 plus hours before our next flight. Feeling bedraggled, we charmed (begged) our way into the Lufthansa Business Lounge for a daily fee of 50 euros each. It was well worth it for comfortable furniture and a buffet of food and drink options. The next flight was uneventful and we made it to our oasis of comfort: the Divani Palace Acropolis Hotel. I don’t get paid to say this: it was a lovely hotel with a good breakfast and a delightful staff. Quite the upgrade from my youth hostel experience 50 years ago.

The next day was devoted to recovery: hydration, food, and rest. As a young traveler, I would have hit the ground running despite exhaustion, existing on street food and adrenaline. These days, we pace ourselves and can sometimes splurge on fine dining with a view. So, for our first dinner in Athens, that’s what we did.

**Dinner at “Acropolis Secret”** **rooftop**

A Morning Tour of Athens

After our day of recharging and strolling around our neighborhood, we were ready to scale the Acropolis on a morning tour with Viator. Winter season resulted in our small group tour consisting of the three of us, a driver, and our guide Athena. On the short drive, she gave us an overview of the day’s itinerary and some background information on history, government, and mythology.

Acropolis, means “high city” in Greek. It is the focal point of Athens. No building may be more than 4 stories, so as not to block anyone’s view of the temples. We arrived in the parking lot, where we met Peggy, our guide for the Acropolis. We made small talk as we walked up through a park with manicured paths that have been graded and surfaced to accommodate the contemporary visitor. It was nothing like my memories of walking straight up the hill from the streets of the Plaka neighborhood. Peggy explained that the site was modernized in anticipation of the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens. They even installed an elevator, but be aware it only holds 2 people at a time.

Before arriving at the entrance to the Parthenon complex, we paused to admire the view of the city below and to see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built during the Roman period (161 AD). It was built for musical performances, was restored in 1950, and today it hosts opera, theatre, and concerts during the Athens & Epidaurus Festival.

After admiring the Odeon below, it was time to look up to our left and back in time 500 years to ancient Greece. Peggy explained that we would climb the stairs to the ancient entrance gate to the temple site, the Propylaea. Ordinary Athenians could leave offerings at the gate and at the entrances of the individual temples, but only the priests and priestesses had access to temple interiors. Therefore, most of life’s day to day activities took place below the Acropolis at the Agora.

It was a perfect morning with blue skies and sunlight reflecting off the marble columns. The temperature was comfortably cool and the comparatively small number of visitors allowed us time and space to take photos and to take in the ambience at a leisurely pace.

The first temple inside the complex is the Temple of Athena Nike, honoring Athena as a victor. It appears small by comparison to the others, but it is perfectly proportioned and beautifully restored.

Another notable temple is the Erechtheion. Built around 410 BC on the ruins of a former temple, it was dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, who according to legend, were in competition for control of the city (Earth vs. water). On the front right corner is the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are carved marble support columns. Originally, there were 6. The 5 you see today are replicas. We saw the restored originals in the Acropolis museum. (No photos allowed). If you have time, it is a worthwhile museum.

Finally, the largest and most recognizable temple is the Parthenon, built between
447–432 BCE to honor Athena Parthenos (the virgin) , daughter of Zeus, and the goddess protector of Athens. The Parthenon is as impressive as ever. It was planned to perfection to please the eye. The architects purposefully placed certain columns “off-kilter” to allow for optical illusions from a distance. Peggy explained the mathematics, the building materials, and the construction process to enhance our understanding. She showed us where a 40 foot statue of Athena once stood. Today, despite painstaking restoration work, the temple remains an empty shell. Scaffolding indicates the ongoing repairs that take place under strict UNESCO rules. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987,which explains why my memories from 1976 are of the rocky ruins of a once great temple all but abandoned. But then and now, to stand in front of the Parthenon is a momentous experience and one that may stay with you for 50 years. I am grateful that I was able to return to experience it once again.

Temples of the Acropolis

The City Below the Acropolis

After the Acropolis, our tour made a quick stop at Parliament for the Changing of the Guard ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The soldiers march in perfect synchronization, which appears to be more of a dance than a march.

Next, we stopped to see the Olympic Stadium, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. It was used for Opening Ceremonies and for the Discus competition. Today, it is a large concert venue and the finish line for the Athens Marathon. The Olympic Flame is kept at Olympia and makes the journey to the site of the Games. Currently, dual Olympic flames have been lit at Milan and Cortina, Italy for the 2026 Winter Games, a historic first.

We then visited hectic Monastiraki Square and walked through the Monastiraki and Thissio neighborhoods that border the Ancient Agora. This was where ancient Athenians gathered, bought and sold goods, and exchanged ideas. Today, it continues to draw crowds, albeit tourists. Venders set up their souvenir stands where ancient Athenians once sold their goods.

Dining in Athens

And now, for Greek food! I must say, we never had a bad meal in Athens. From fine dining to neighborhood taverns, or even a humble gyros sandwich at lunch, Greek food was always fresh, well-prepared, and served by truly friendly people. Prices, while not astoundingly cheap, were definitely cheaper than we are used to at home. Portions are large; sharing is best. Greek beer is pleasantly refreshing and Greek wine is very drinkable, while not necessarily memorable. The house wine is fine. Cheers!

A Sunset Tour

A one hour plus drive south of Athens is Cape Sounion, the site of the Temple of Poseidon. We chose a sunset tour with Viator to take us there. The temple was built around the same time as the Parthenon. 18 of its original 36 columns remain. Situated at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, it overlooks the Aegean Sea. It was a landmark for sailors and a place where they would pray to Poseidon, the god of the seas. The impressive structure is especially impressive in the golden hour before the sun sets over the water.

The Temple of Poseidon at Sunset

**Bill, Betty, Geri at the Temple of Poseidon**

National Museum of Archeology

Rain was forecasted for Sunday, so we headed to the National Museum of Archeology for the morning. Sundays are free days, so there was a bit of a line at 10:00 am, but luckily the rain held off. We spent about 2 hours, but it would require a full day to see it all.

This museum houses Greek art from 7,00BC to 500AD. The rooms are arranged chronologically and I found the wall maps to be very helpful in understanding the scope and development of the Greek civilization. The museums audio tour is good; you will need your phone and earbuds.

While we were inside the museum, it rained quite heavily, but was tapering off when we exited. The line was really long by this time, snaking form the entrance, through the plaza out in front and down the sidewalk for blocks. I estimated a wait of 1-2 hours. We headed to Ermou Street in Athens’ historic center. Since my last time there, the area has been pedestrianized and features some high-end stores amid the souvenir stands. Restaurants and coffee shops line the sidewalk and they were doing a brisk business. We stopped for a gyros sandwich and a beverage to fuel us for a visit to Church. Uh, churches.

Panagia Kapnikarea on Ermou Street (11th century) and Athens Cathedral (mid 19th century)

One of Athens’ oldest churches is the Panagia Kapnikarea. Built during the Byzantine era, it has survived and stands as a reminder of the flourishing culture and architecture of Athens during medieval times. It is an active Orthodox church today and visitors are welcome to visit the inside of the church and the basement displays of religious icons and treasures, except during services. This was explained to us by a member of the congregation who had stepped outside for a cigarette during the long Sunday service.

A short walk from the Byzantine church is the Athens Cathedral, which is the National Cathedral of Greece and seat of the Greek Orthodox Church. Building began in 1842 after independence from the Ottoman Turks, and was completed in 1862. Constructed with marble blocks salvaged from the ruins of churches throughout Athens, its style blends Neoclassical and Byzantine Revival Architecture. Formally named “The Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary,” whose feast day is March 25, it is not likely coincidental that March 25th is also Greek Independence Day.

Plaka- Athens’ Oldest Neighborhood

After a full day of touring, we strolled “home” through Plaka, the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood of Athens. The walk involved a considerable number of stairs and squeezing through sidewalk cafes, but there were some delightful surprises along the way. Eventually, we emerged at the Acropolis Museum, a short distance from our hotel.

Athens is a city to be savored. You could whip through its major sites in a day or you could stay a bit longer and enjoy the sunshine, the food, and the people. It has certainly been built up and modernized in the last 50 years, yet New Athens blends gracefully with ancient Athens. Often when a foundation is dug for a new building, important archeological sites are uncovered and construction is halted or delayed indefinitely. There are challenges to protecting your heritage. The Greek people take great pride in their history and culture.

I hope you have enjoyed accompanying me on my Athens Adventure 2026. I am independent and unpaid. Photography and narratives are my own. Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next destination: Cyprus