Category: Greece

50 Years Later

I visited Athens as a college student in December, 1975. Bill had never been there, so we decided to make it our launch point for a winter abroad. Having immersed ourselves in the ancient worlds of Sicily and Turkey this past year, it seemed only logical to circle back to ancient Greece. Bill’s sister Betty joined us for the adventure.

I was curious to see if the city has changed much and to determine who has aged better, me, or the Parthenon. Now to be fair, the Parthenon has had a lot of work done, but she looks amazing for her 2,472 years of exposure to natural and human forces. My mere 70 years cannot compare.

We arrived in Athens at 3:00 am, local time after an actual 24 hours of travel. Our flight from Chicago to Munich, then Munich to Athens was delayed leaving O’Hare, and after an hour in flight, the captain announced that we were turning around, dumping fuel and returning to Chicago for repairs to the navigation system. This was a first for us and one I could do without. After 3-4 hours waiting in Chicago and missing our connection, we were once again on our way. In Munich, we faced another 4 plus hours before our next flight. Feeling bedraggled, we charmed (begged) our way into the Lufthansa Business Lounge for a daily fee of 50 euros each. It was well worth it for comfortable furniture and a buffet of food and drink options. The next flight was uneventful and we made it to our oasis of comfort: the Divani Palace Acropolis Hotel. I don’t get paid to say this: it was a lovely hotel with a good breakfast and a delightful staff. Quite the upgrade from my youth hostel experience 50 years ago.

The next day was devoted to recovery: hydration, food, and rest. As a young traveler, I would have hit the ground running despite exhaustion, existing on street food and adrenaline. These days, we pace ourselves and can sometimes splurge on fine dining with a view. So, for our first dinner in Athens, that’s what we did.

A Morning Tour of Athens

After our day of recharging and strolling around our neighborhood, we were ready to scale the Acropolis on a morning tour with Viator. Winter season resulted in our small group tour consisting of the three of us, a driver, and our guide Athena. On the short drive, she gave us an overview of the day’s itinerary and some background information on history, government, and mythology.

Acropolis, means “high city” in Greek. It is the focal point of Athens. No building may be more than 4 stories, so as not to block anyone’s view of the temples. We arrived in the parking lot, where we met Peggy, our guide for the Acropolis. We made small talk as we walked up through a park with manicured paths that have been graded and surfaced to accommodate the contemporary visitor. It was nothing like my memories of walking straight up the hill from the streets of the Plaka neighborhood. Peggy explained that the site was modernized in anticipation of the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens. They even installed an elevator, but be aware it only holds 2 people at a time.

Before arriving at the entrance to the Parthenon complex, we paused to admire the view of the city below and to see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built during the Roman period (161 AD). It was built for musical performances, was restored in 1950, and today it hosts opera, theatre, and concerts during the Athens & Epidaurus Festival.

After admiring the Odeon below, it was time to look up to our left and back in time 500 years to ancient Greece. Peggy explained that we would climb the stairs to the ancient entrance gate to the temple site, the Propylaea. Ordinary Athenians could leave offerings at the gate and at the entrances of the individual temples, but only the priests and priestesses had access to temple interiors. Therefore, most of life’s day to day activities took place below the Acropolis at the Agora.

It was a perfect morning with blue skies and sunlight reflecting off the marble columns. The temperature was comfortably cool and the comparatively small number of visitors allowed us time and space to take photos and to take in the ambience at a leisurely pace.

The first temple inside the complex is the Temple of Athena Nike, honoring Athena as a victor. It appears small by comparison to the others, but it is perfectly proportioned and beautifully restored.

Another notable temple is the Erechtheion. Built around 410 BC on the ruins of a former temple, it was dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, who according to legend, were in competition for control of the city (Earth vs. water). On the front right corner is the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are carved marble support columns. Originally, there were 6. The 5 you see today are replicas. We saw the restored originals in the Acropolis museum. (No photos allowed). If you have time, it is a worthwhile museum.

Finally, the largest and most recognizable temple is the Parthenon, built between
447–432 BCE to honor Athena Parthenos (the virgin) , daughter of Zeus, and the goddess protector of Athens. The Parthenon is as impressive as ever. It was planned to perfection to please the eye. The architects purposefully placed certain columns “off-kilter” to allow for optical illusions from a distance. Peggy explained the mathematics, the building materials, and the construction process to enhance our understanding. She showed us where a 40 foot statue of Athena once stood. Today, despite painstaking restoration work, the temple remains an empty shell. Scaffolding indicates the ongoing repairs that take place under strict UNESCO rules. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987,which explains why my memories from 1976 are of the rocky ruins of a once great temple all but abandoned. But then and now, to stand in front of the Parthenon is a momentous experience and one that may stay with you for 50 years. I am grateful that I was able to return to experience it once again.

Temples of the Acropolis

The City Below the Acropolis

After the Acropolis, our tour made a quick stop at Parliament for the Changing of the Guard ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The soldiers march in perfect synchronization, which appears to be more of a dance than a march.

Next, we stopped to see the Olympic Stadium, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. It was used for Opening Ceremonies and for the Discus competition. Today, it is a large concert venue and the finish line for the Athens Marathon. The Olympic Flame is kept at Olympia and makes the journey to the site of the Games. Currently, dual Olympic flames have been lit at Milan and Cortina, Italy for the 2026 Winter Games, a historic first.

We then visited hectic Monastiraki Square and walked through the Monastiraki and Thissio neighborhoods that border the Ancient Agora. This was where ancient Athenians gathered, bought and sold goods, and exchanged ideas. Today, it continues to draw crowds, albeit tourists. Venders set up their souvenir stands where ancient Athenians once sold their goods.

Dining in Athens

And now, for Greek food! I must say, we never had a bad meal in Athens. From fine dining to neighborhood taverns, or even a humble gyros sandwich at lunch, Greek food was always fresh, well-prepared, and served by truly friendly people. Prices, while not astoundingly cheap, were definitely cheaper than we are used to at home. Portions are large; sharing is best. Greek beer is pleasantly refreshing and Greek wine is very drinkable, while not necessarily memorable. The house wine is fine. Cheers!

A Sunset Tour

A one hour plus drive south of Athens is Cape Sounion, the site of the Temple of Poseidon. We chose a sunset tour with Viator to take us there. The temple was built around the same time as the Parthenon. 18 of its original 36 columns remain. Situated at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, it overlooks the Aegean Sea. It was a landmark for sailors and a place where they would pray to Poseidon, the god of the seas. The impressive structure is especially impressive in the golden hour before the sun sets over the water.

The Temple of Poseidon at Sunset

National Museum of Archeology

Rain was forecasted for Sunday, so we headed to the National Museum of Archeology for the morning. Sundays are free days, so there was a bit of a line at 10:00 am, but luckily the rain held off. We spent about 2 hours, but it would require a full day to see it all.

This museum houses Greek art from 7,00BC to 500AD. The rooms are arranged chronologically and I found the wall maps to be very helpful in understanding the scope and development of the Greek civilization. The museums audio tour is good; you will need your phone and earbuds.

While we were inside the museum, it rained quite heavily, but was tapering off when we exited. The line was really long by this time, snaking form the entrance, through the plaza out in front and down the sidewalk for blocks. I estimated a wait of 1-2 hours. We headed to Ermou Street in Athens’ historic center. Since my last time there, the area has been pedestrianized and features some high-end stores amid the souvenir stands. Restaurants and coffee shops line the sidewalk and they were doing a brisk business. We stopped for a gyros sandwich and a beverage to fuel us for a visit to Church. Uh, churches.

Panagia Kapnikarea on Ermou Street (11th century) and Athens Cathedral (mid 19th century)

One of Athens’ oldest churches is the Panagia Kapnikarea. Built during the Byzantine era, it has survived and stands as a reminder of the flourishing culture and architecture of Athens during medieval times. It is an active Orthodox church today and visitors are welcome to visit the inside of the church and the basement displays of religious icons and treasures, except during services. This was explained to us by a member of the congregation who had stepped outside for a cigarette during the long Sunday service.

A short walk from the Byzantine church is the Athens Cathedral, which is the National Cathedral of Greece and seat of the Greek Orthodox Church. Building began in 1842 after independence from the Ottoman Turks, and was completed in 1862. Constructed with marble blocks salvaged from the ruins of churches throughout Athens, its style blends Neoclassical and Byzantine Revival Architecture. Formally named “The Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary,” whose feast day is March 25, it is not likely coincidental that March 25th is also Greek Independence Day.

Plaka- Athens’ Oldest Neighborhood

After a full day of touring, we strolled “home” through Plaka, the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood of Athens. The walk involved a considerable number of stairs and squeezing through sidewalk cafes, but there were some delightful surprises along the way. Eventually, we emerged at the Acropolis Museum, a short distance from our hotel.

Athens is a city to be savored. You could whip through its major sites in a day or you could stay a bit longer and enjoy the sunshine, the food, and the people. It has certainly been built up and modernized in the last 50 years, yet New Athens blends gracefully with ancient Athens. Often when a foundation is dug for a new building, important archeological sites are uncovered and construction is halted or delayed indefinitely. There are challenges to protecting your heritage. The Greek people take great pride in their history and culture.

I hope you have enjoyed accompanying me on my Athens Adventure 2026. I am independent and unpaid. Photography and narratives are my own. Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next destination: Cyprus