europe – Adventures In The South of Spain

Athens : Modern Comforts Amid Ancient Wonders

50 Years Later

I visited Athens as a college student in December, 1975. Bill had never been there, so we decided to make it our launch point for a winter abroad. Having immersed ourselves in the ancient worlds of Sicily and Turkey this past year, it seemed only logical to circle back to ancient Greece. Bill’s sister Betty joined us for the adventure.

I was curious to see if the city has changed much and to determine who has aged better, me, or the Parthenon. Now to be fair, the Parthenon has had a lot of work done, but she looks amazing for her 2,472 years of exposure to natural and human forces. My mere 70 years cannot compare.

We arrived in Athens at 3:00 am, local time after an actual 24 hours of travel. Our flight from Chicago to Munich, then Munich to Athens was delayed leaving O’Hare, and after an hour in flight, the captain announced that we were turning around, dumping fuel and returning to Chicago for repairs to the navigation system. This was a first for us and one I could do without. After 3-4 hours waiting in Chicago and missing our connection, we were once again on our way. In Munich, we faced another 4 plus hours before our next flight. Feeling bedraggled, we charmed (begged) our way into the Lufthansa Business Lounge for a daily fee of 50 euros each. It was well worth it for comfortable furniture and a buffet of food and drink options. The next flight was uneventful and we made it to our oasis of comfort: the Divani Palace Acropolis Hotel. I don’t get paid to say this: it was a lovely hotel with a good breakfast and a delightful staff. Quite the upgrade from my youth hostel experience 50 years ago.

The next day was devoted to recovery: hydration, food, and rest. As a young traveler, I would have hit the ground running despite exhaustion, existing on street food and adrenaline. These days, we pace ourselves and can sometimes splurge on fine dining with a view. So, for our first dinner in Athens, that’s what we did.

**Dinner at “Acropolis Secret”** **rooftop**

A Morning Tour of Athens

After our day of recharging and strolling around our neighborhood, we were ready to scale the Acropolis on a morning tour with Viator. Winter season resulted in our small group tour consisting of the three of us, a driver, and our guide Athena. On the short drive, she gave us an overview of the day’s itinerary and some background information on history, government, and mythology.

Acropolis, means “high city” in Greek. It is the focal point of Athens. No building may be more than 4 stories, so as not to block anyone’s view of the temples. We arrived in the parking lot, where we met Peggy, our guide for the Acropolis. We made small talk as we walked up through a park with manicured paths that have been graded and surfaced to accommodate the contemporary visitor. It was nothing like my memories of walking straight up the hill from the streets of the Plaka neighborhood. Peggy explained that the site was modernized in anticipation of the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens. They even installed an elevator, but be aware it only holds 2 people at a time.

Before arriving at the entrance to the Parthenon complex, we paused to admire the view of the city below and to see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built during the Roman period (161 AD). It was built for musical performances, was restored in 1950, and today it hosts opera, theatre, and concerts during the Athens & Epidaurus Festival.

After admiring the Odeon below, it was time to look up to our left and back in time 500 years to ancient Greece. Peggy explained that we would climb the stairs to the ancient entrance gate to the temple site, the Propylaea. Ordinary Athenians could leave offerings at the gate and at the entrances of the individual temples, but only the priests and priestesses had access to temple interiors. Therefore, most of life’s day to day activities took place below the Acropolis at the Agora.

It was a perfect morning with blue skies and sunlight reflecting off the marble columns. The temperature was comfortably cool and the comparatively small number of visitors allowed us time and space to take photos and to take in the ambience at a leisurely pace.

The first temple inside the complex is the Temple of Athena Nike, honoring Athena as a victor. It appears small by comparison to the others, but it is perfectly proportioned and beautifully restored.

Another notable temple is the Erechtheion. Built around 410 BC on the ruins of a former temple, it was dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, who according to legend, were in competition for control of the city (Earth vs. water). On the front right corner is the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are carved marble support columns. Originally, there were 6. The 5 you see today are replicas. We saw the restored originals in the Acropolis museum. (No photos allowed). If you have time, it is a worthwhile museum.

Finally, the largest and most recognizable temple is the Parthenon, built between
447–432 BCE to honor Athena Parthenos (the virgin) , daughter of Zeus, and the goddess protector of Athens. The Parthenon is as impressive as ever. It was planned to perfection to please the eye. The architects purposefully placed certain columns “off-kilter” to allow for optical illusions from a distance. Peggy explained the mathematics, the building materials, and the construction process to enhance our understanding. She showed us where a 40 foot statue of Athena once stood. Today, despite painstaking restoration work, the temple remains an empty shell. Scaffolding indicates the ongoing repairs that take place under strict UNESCO rules. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987,which explains why my memories from 1976 are of the rocky ruins of a once great temple all but abandoned. But then and now, to stand in front of the Parthenon is a momentous experience and one that may stay with you for 50 years. I am grateful that I was able to return to experience it once again.

Temples of the Acropolis

The City Below the Acropolis

After the Acropolis, our tour made a quick stop at Parliament for the Changing of the Guard ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The soldiers march in perfect synchronization, which appears to be more of a dance than a march.

Next, we stopped to see the Olympic Stadium, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. It was used for Opening Ceremonies and for the Discus competition. Today, it is a large concert venue and the finish line for the Athens Marathon. The Olympic Flame is kept at Olympia and makes the journey to the site of the Games. Currently, dual Olympic flames have been lit at Milan and Cortina, Italy for the 2026 Winter Games, a historic first.

We then visited hectic Monastiraki Square and walked through the Monastiraki and Thissio neighborhoods that border the Ancient Agora. This was where ancient Athenians gathered, bought and sold goods, and exchanged ideas. Today, it continues to draw crowds, albeit tourists. Venders set up their souvenir stands where ancient Athenians once sold their goods.

Dining in Athens

And now, for Greek food! I must say, we never had a bad meal in Athens. From fine dining to neighborhood taverns, or even a humble gyros sandwich at lunch, Greek food was always fresh, well-prepared, and served by truly friendly people. Prices, while not astoundingly cheap, were definitely cheaper than we are used to at home. Portions are large; sharing is best. Greek beer is pleasantly refreshing and Greek wine is very drinkable, while not necessarily memorable. The house wine is fine. Cheers!

A Sunset Tour

A one hour plus drive south of Athens is Cape Sounion, the site of the Temple of Poseidon. We chose a sunset tour with Viator to take us there. The temple was built around the same time as the Parthenon. 18 of its original 36 columns remain. Situated at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, it overlooks the Aegean Sea. It was a landmark for sailors and a place where they would pray to Poseidon, the god of the seas. The impressive structure is especially impressive in the golden hour before the sun sets over the water.

The Temple of Poseidon at Sunset

**Bill, Betty, Geri at the Temple of Poseidon**

National Museum of Archeology

Rain was forecasted for Sunday, so we headed to the National Museum of Archeology for the morning. Sundays are free days, so there was a bit of a line at 10:00 am, but luckily the rain held off. We spent about 2 hours, but it would require a full day to see it all.

This museum houses Greek art from 7,00BC to 500AD. The rooms are arranged chronologically and I found the wall maps to be very helpful in understanding the scope and development of the Greek civilization. The museums audio tour is good; you will need your phone and earbuds.

While we were inside the museum, it rained quite heavily, but was tapering off when we exited. The line was really long by this time, snaking form the entrance, through the plaza out in front and down the sidewalk for blocks. I estimated a wait of 1-2 hours. We headed to Ermou Street in Athens’ historic center. Since my last time there, the area has been pedestrianized and features some high-end stores amid the souvenir stands. Restaurants and coffee shops line the sidewalk and they were doing a brisk business. We stopped for a gyros sandwich and a beverage to fuel us for a visit to Church. Uh, churches.

Panagia Kapnikarea on Ermou Street (11th century) and Athens Cathedral (mid 19th century)

One of Athens’ oldest churches is the Panagia Kapnikarea. Built during the Byzantine era, it has survived and stands as a reminder of the flourishing culture and architecture of Athens during medieval times. It is an active Orthodox church today and visitors are welcome to visit the inside of the church and the basement displays of religious icons and treasures, except during services. This was explained to us by a member of the congregation who had stepped outside for a cigarette during the long Sunday service.

A short walk from the Byzantine church is the Athens Cathedral, which is the National Cathedral of Greece and seat of the Greek Orthodox Church. Building began in 1842 after independence from the Ottoman Turks, and was completed in 1862. Constructed with marble blocks salvaged from the ruins of churches throughout Athens, its style blends Neoclassical and Byzantine Revival Architecture. Formally named “The Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary,” whose feast day is March 25, it is not likely coincidental that March 25th is also Greek Independence Day.

Plaka- Athens’ Oldest Neighborhood

After a full day of touring, we strolled “home” through Plaka, the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood of Athens. The walk involved a considerable number of stairs and squeezing through sidewalk cafes, but there were some delightful surprises along the way. Eventually, we emerged at the Acropolis Museum, a short distance from our hotel.

Athens is a city to be savored. You could whip through its major sites in a day or you could stay a bit longer and enjoy the sunshine, the food, and the people. It has certainly been built up and modernized in the last 50 years, yet New Athens blends gracefully with ancient Athens. Often when a foundation is dug for a new building, important archeological sites are uncovered and construction is halted or delayed indefinitely. There are challenges to protecting your heritage. The Greek people take great pride in their history and culture.

I hope you have enjoyed accompanying me on my Athens Adventure 2026. I am independent and unpaid. Photography and narratives are my own. Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next destination: Cyprus

Exploring Istanbul: A Journey through Time

October 2025

Just the name Istanbul conjures up exotic images of the ancient world: crowded bazaars, mysterious harems, dens of iniquity, historic battles, biblical references, and political intrigue. Called Constantinople until 1930, when it officially became Istanbul, this city has a fascinating history. Geographically straddling Europe and Asia, strategically placed on two sides of the Bosphorus Strait, it has always been a tempting conquest. The Bosphorus connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara which links to the Aegean and Mediterranean via the Dardanelles Strait. Constantinople was a stop on the ancient Silk Road, so commerce and foreign visitors are part of its DNA.

The city has provided an iconic setting for films such as “Murder on the Orient Express,” and two James Bond films: “From Russia with Love” and “Skyfall.” I have long desired to experience it, but we had some trepidation about navigating Turkey on our own. We mostly travel independently, but occasionally opt for a guided tour. If we only wanted to go to Istanbul, we could have arranged our own transportation and lodging and signed up for day tours of the major sites. However, we wished to see more of Turkey and after doing some research, we concluded that a bus tour was the most convenient way to see the more remote locations. We went to Istanbul ahead of the tour to acclimate and explore a bit on our own.

Our non-stop flight from Chicago arrived mid-morning after a somewhat cramped flight on Turkish Airlines. My visions of ancient Constantinople did not exactly jive with the huge modern airport of Istanbul. After a lengthy, but uneventful walk through baggage claim and passport control, we located our pre-arranged driver to take us to our hotel in the Levent district. It turns out that we were staying in the business and convention area of the city and far from the historic center. Istanbul traffic is a nightmare; traffic jams are so commonplace that vendors sell bottled water and sesame rolls on the highway. If you think Chicago expressways have gridlock, you should experience Istanbul.

The hotel (Wyndham Grand, Levent) was lovely and had plenty of modern amenities. We were able eat a great buffet breakfast, take a swim, unpack and rest before heading back into the city center for dinner at a rooftop restaurant with great Turkish food and beautiful views of the city at night.

A couple poses for a selfie with a mosque featuring multiple minarets in the background in Istanbul. — **Geri and Bill in Levent District**

A couple dining at a cozy table in a warmly lit restaurant, with wine glasses and a bottle visible on the table. — **Geri and Bill in Levent District**

We had two more days to explore the city on our own before meeting our tour guide and travel companions. We began our sightseeing with a visit to the Topkapi Palace, where we joined a guided day tour. Don’t skip Topkapi Palace! It is a huge complex of buildings, really a city within a city. We ended up visiting twice and still didn’t see it all. The kitchens alone served 10,000 meals per day to the sultan and his family, the palace staff , court officials, guards, and townspeople who were welcomed onto the grounds to eat. Today, you can get a sense of the vastness of the kitchens by observing the chimneys that once vented the huge ovens. Only parts of the kitchen buildings are open to the public for viewing exhibits.

Exterior view of a historic building with distinct chimneys, surrounded by manicured gardens and tall trees against a cloudy sky. — **The Kitchens of Topkapi**

Topkapi Palace gives you a feel for life during the Ottoman Empire. Built in the 1500’s by Mehmed II it served as the residence of the sultans and the seat of government for 400 years. In 1924, it was converted to a museum by Mustaf Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The palace buildings house weapons, jewels, manuscripts, and religious relics from the Jewish, Christian, and Islamic faiths. I was surprised to see the staff of Moses , the sword of David, and bone fragments of St. John the Baptist, along with the footprint of Muhammad and letters written by Muhammad.

Enjoy the following photos of Topkapi Palace.

A pair of vintage earrings featuring gold hooks and intricate designs with sparkling clear stones, complemented by vibrant green teardrop-shaped gems. — Precious Jewels in the Treasury

Side view of the Hagia Sophia, showcasing its distinct architectural features, including the rounded dome and brick facade, surrounded by greenery. — Precious Jewels in the Treasury

A historical recreation of a figure in traditional Ottoman clothing seated in a room adorned with patterned tiles and a intricately designed couch. — Inside the Harem (Statue of a Black Eunich)

Interior view of a room in Topkapi Palace featuring intricate blue tile work and calligraphy on the walls, with visitors exploring and one person seated on a stone bench. — Inside the Harem (Statue of a Black Eunich)

After a morning at the palace, we visited the Spice Market for lunch at the famed Pandeli Restaurant, which has been serving up Turkish specialties since 1905 and has hosted Queen Elizabeth II and Hollywood royalty like Audrey Hepburn. The upstairs space has views of the crowded plaza and the busy Bosphorus below. The bustling dining room is staffed by smiling waiters. The food is tasty and menu prices are fair.

After lunch, we visited the “New Mosque” formally named Valide Sultan Mosque. Construction began in 1597, but due to political upheaval and a fire, it was not fully complete and dedicated until 1665. Today, the huge structure dominates the Spice Market and its surrounding outdoor market stalls. It is a thriving place of worship that welcomes respectful guests. Women should wear a head covering and everyone must remove their shoes.

After our visit to the mosque, we walked along the bridge, where locals gather to fish. Below the bridge are a number of restaurants that mainly cater to tourists. It was time for us to get an Uber to drive us back to our hotel.

Basilica Cisterns

Our next Istanbul site took us back to the 6th century during the Roman occupation. Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of the Basilica Cisterns, a huge underground structure to serve as water storage for the city. It is unknown today what the source of the water supply was. The builders repurposed building materials found in ruins on the site, many of which were Greek and Roman columns from ancient temples. Named “Basilica” Cisterns for its size and structural similarity to a cathedral, today it is a popular tourist attraction. The water is only there for effect these days. At times the cisterns are used as an event space for concerts and it appeared in Hollywood’s “From Russia with Love” and “Inferno.”

Time to Tour in Earnest

On the evening of our 3rd day in Istanbul, we met Metin, our tour director, and our fellow travelers. We had a busy two weeks ahead of us. Over the next few days, we had a guided tour of Istanbul’s major sites. We visited the Topkapi Palace and The Spice Market for the second time. We returned to Sultanahmet Square ( the. Hippodrome) and visited the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. We took a boat cruise on the Bosphorus and shopped at the Grand Bazaar.

Hagia Sofia– A Brief Summary of a Long History

-In 325 The first church on the site was built by Emperor Constantine I, for whom the city of Constantinople was named

-In 415, the second basilica was constructed in 415 and destroyed in 532

-In 532 Emperor Justinian had the church rebuilt.

– Hagia Sofia was the principle church of the Byzantine Empire (532-537)

-In the 1200’s it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral

-In 1453 Sultan Mehmed II converted it to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest

-In 1953, it was secularized and opened as a museum

-In 2020, it was reconverted to a mosque, but remains a UNESCO site and the second story level is open to visitors

Hagia Sofia dominates the landscape of central Istanbul. The construction cranes symbolize its ongoing reconstruction. From the outside you can observe the many architectural styles applied to this structure, as well as the religious symbols added throughout the centuries, like the minarets, dome, and gold finial on top of the dome added when the basilica was converted to a mosque. The interior contains remnants of the Christian eras on the upper level walls.

A view of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, showcasing its distinct domes and minarets, set against a partly cloudy sky with a construction crane visible in the background. — **Hagia Sofia**

A historic mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, flanked by two Byzantine emperors, featuring intricate patterns and gold accents. — Mosaic in Hagia Sofia

Interior view of Hagia Sophia showcasing its intricate dome, decorative patterns, and large Arabic calligraphy signs on the walls. — Mosaic in Hagia Sofia

The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet- Better Known as the Blue Mosque

This mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and completed in 1616. Facing the Hagia Sofia across the square, it was built to compete with the famed pride of the Romans and the Byzantines, and to symbolize the supremacy of the Muslim Ottomans. The term “blue’ mosque comes from the blue Iznik tiles on the interior walls, but you will notice the blue domes and blue accents on its six minarets.

The Blue Mosque invites non-Muslims to visit except during prayer hours and holy days. There is usually a line, but it moves fairly quickly and the experience is worth it. Women must cover their heads and all visitors must remove their shoes. This is an active place of worship, so please maintain quiet and keep a respectful distance when taking photos.

The courtyard of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, showcasing its magnificent architecture with six minarets and domed roofs under a cloudy sky. — **Interior Courtyard of the Blue Mosque**

A decorative sign with calligraphy in gold against a blue background, set within a room featuring ornate patterned tiles reflecting traditional Turkish design. — **Iznik Tiles**

A bustling street scene in Istanbul with a prominent mosque in the background, showcasing its architectural details under a blue sky with clouds. — Blue Mosque

Interior view of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, featuring ornate decorations, large windows, and worshippers on the orange carpet. — Blue Mosque

Local Food

Turkish food is fresh and largely features grilled seafood and meats, namely lamb, beef, and chicken (no pork). Mediterranean-style small plates are called “mezze’ and feature hummus and pita, tomatoes, a variety of olives, nuts, and dried fruits. Homemade yogurt from goats’ milk is always available at breakfast and is often served as a side sauce to accompany roasted vegetables. Many cheeses (mostly white) are made from goat and sheep milk. Turkish cuisine uses spices for flavoring, but is not spicy, if that makes sense. The local wine is drinkable; not memorable and can be expensive. Turks who imbibe like raki, a clear liquor made from distilled grapes and the seeds of anis, giving it a slight licorice flavor. Turkish beer is pleasant. Overall, Turkey did not appear to be a big drinking culture, but alcohol is accessible and served without judgement. Coffee and pastry shops are very popular. Traditional Turkish coffee can be found amidst the cappuccini and lattes favored by modern young Turks and tourists. Restaurant prices are on the expensive side, by that I mean fairly similar to what we are used to in the US.

A piece of Turkish pastry served on a decorated plate, featuring a golden-brown flaky exterior and a sprinkle of coconut on top. — **Turkish Baklava**

A plate of Turkish salad with pomegranate seeds and spinach next to a serving of flatbread and a bowl of yogurt on a wooden table. — **Fresh Pita and Hummus**

A plate of Turkish kebab served on flatbread with grilled vegetables, rice, and fresh herbs. — **Fresh Pita and Hummus**

Two golden, fried pastries on a white plate, served in a restaurant setting. — Cheese Puffs

A partially finished serving bowl of Turkish salad featuring diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and walnuts, with a spoon resting inside. — Cheese Puffs

Bosphorus Cruise

You get a whole new perspective of Istanbul from the water. The Bosphorus Strait separates Europe from Asia. Our group enjoyed a narrated cruise where we learned more history and had a chance to observe palaces, mansions, landmarks, hotels, and yachts without traffic or crowds. This is a must-do in istanbul.

A couple smiling and posing for a selfie on a boat with a large bridge in the background. The scene depicts a waterway surrounded by greenery and buildings along the shore, under a partly cloudy sky. — Crossing between Europe and Asia

A couple posing for a selfie at the waterfront in Istanbul, with boats and a cloudy sky in the background. — Crossing between Europe and Asia

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is nothing like I imagined. It resembles an indoor suburban mall more than the historic, 15th century iconic market it once was. Matin told us it is mostly for the tourists now, but that locals still go there for big-ticket jewelry items like wedding rings. We walked past one jewelry store after another featuring sparkling gold, silver, and gemstones. The vendors were friendly, but not aggressive. Still, the experience was overwhelming and after venturing down a few side aisles and snapping a few photos, we had seen enough. For a slightly more authentic (and cheaper) market experience, go to the Spice Market.

It was time for coffee and pastry at Hafiz-Mustafah, a famous name that lived up to the hype.

Entrance to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, featuring a bustling crowd of visitors, Turkish flags hanging above, and the historic architecture of the market entrance. — Gate 1 to the Bazaar

A bustling scene inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, with shoppers exploring shops adorned with Turkish flags hanging from the ceiling. — Gate 1 to the Bazaar

Istanbul is an evolving city. It preserves and celebrates its long and fascinating history, while continuing to grow with the times. Today, it is a lively and modern center of education, commerce, tourism, and medicine. It is a destination for cosmetic procedures, such as hair transplants, facial reconstruction, and dental implants. Its citizens are welcoming. The security of visitors is a priority. You should take the usual precautions with your wallet and valuables, especially when in crowded spaces, but we never felt unsafe.

There is so much to see and do in Istanbul. The number of days you should devote to it depends on your style of travel. While 3 packed days would be plenty for some, others would need a week or more to do it justice. I would recommend staying in a hotel in the historic center, where you can walk or take the tram to most points of interest. We found that the UBER app worked best for the taxis, to avoid communication or navigation failures.

A tour will take you to the highlights and take care of all of the details, but you may feel rushed or restricted. We enjoyed our tour for the attention to detail and social aspects, but we were glad we did those two additional nights on our own. If you decide to visit Istanbul independently, then sign up for guided day tours to learn the background information. Enjoy!

View of two tall, modern buildings with distinctive domed roofs against a cloudy sky in Istanbul. — **New city**

A stone wall with towers along an empty street in Istanbul, with a cloudy sky above and a few people walking nearby. — **New city**

Bath and Beyond (August 2024)

We took the train from London to Bath for a three-night stay in this charming town that is an almost perfectly preserved example of Georgian architecture. The train ride from Paddington Station to Bath takes 1 1/2 hours and costs about $80 per ticket. The train was comfortable and our fellow passengers were enthusiastic travelers and locals.

We stayed at Oldfields’ Bed and Breakfast, a charming house up on the hill above town. The room was comfortable, the staff friendly and breakfast was very good. Most visitors come by car, so the parking lot is a plus. We did not have a car and and it was a bit of a walk into town and uphill all the way back so we used taxis or Ubers.

We took a Bridgerton Walking Tour with Paul Elliot (available on Trip Advisor). He was both informative and fun. On this tour you will see the major sites in Bath along with on location sites from the filming of the Bridgerton series. (Netflix)

A walking tour is a perfect introduction to Bath. Once you have an overview of the town, you can return to the sites you which to visit. We visited The Roman Baths, Bath Abbey, and the Jane Austen Centre. I highly recommend all three. Reserve your tickets ahead for the popular Roman Baths. We were able to walk into the Jane Austen Centre, but it is housed in a Georgian house that can get crowded rather quickly. I wasn’t able to browse the gift shop as I would have liked, because it also serves as the ticket office and there was a large group checking in. We did not go to the Tea Rooms upstairs, but you might want to reserve a table for the full experience.

We spent three nights in Bath. Many tourists visit on a day trip from London, but we are slower travelers and Bath has a lot to offer. We had time to enjoy lunch at Bath’s oldest pub : The Saracens Head. Bath has a number of good restaurants to explore and enjoy.

From Bath, we took a half-day small bus tour to Stonehenge, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is only an hour away, so if you have a car you can go on your own. Our driver pointed out a few points of interest along the way, but once we arrived we toured on our own. Admission includes an excellent audio-tour. Visitors are only allowed inside the stone circle on certain days (solstice) on approved tours. If you follow the perimeter path you get good views of the structures from various sides and learn valuable facts about Stonehenge from the audio narration. All along the route are printed signs pointing out certain features and discoveries; there are even “selfie stops”. Carbon dating pinpoints Stonehenge around 3100 BC and human remains indicate that it may have been a Neolithic burial ground. The type of stone is found in northern Scotland, a considerable distance from the site. Archeologists continue to study and wonder about its origins.

Next Stop: Liverpool

Note: Any mention of commercial ventures is purely based on my own experience. I am independent and unpaid.

Paris 2024

Adventures In the South of Spain Goes North to France!

First Stop : Nantes (July 29-August 1)

**Kicking It Off With a Soccer Match in Nantes**

When Paris announced they would host the 2024 Summer Olympics, our daughter Jackie proclaimed “We should all go!” To be honest, we didn’t take her too seriously until about a year ago when she insisted it was time to start planning in earnest. To put things in context: in 2008, our daughter Christine competed in the Beijing Games and earned two silver medals in swimming. Jackie, Bill, and I traveled to China to cheer her on.

This trip was our first return to the Olympics; this time with Christine as a spectator. We were joined by Jackie’s husband Greg and their two children, and Greg’s parents. Some members of our group were visiting Paris for the first time and others were returning. It was my third time to the “City of Lights.” To combine the beauty of Paris with the Olympic Games was too tempting to pass up.

In the fall of 2023, the Paris 2024 Family Calendar was born. Nine of us committed to the August 2024 trip. We got busy booking lodging, buying train tickets, buying tickets to events, making dinner reservations, booking day tours, reserving museum entries, and reading guide books. We planned to meet in Paris on July 29th and board a train for Nantes on the Loire River for a three-night stay and a soccer game.

We strategically packed our carry-on bags for a month of travel, as Bill and I were heading to the UK from our Paris adventure. After overnight flights from Chicago, Austin, and Milwaukee, the nine of us met in the regional train terminal at Charles de Gaulle Airport. Lattes and croissants all around!

The high-speed train trip to Nantes was comfortable and and we passed the time reading, snacking, and dozing. The highlight was when our granddaughter lost a tooth! The low point was when John and Jan’s duffle bag was stolen from the luggage rack. They were determined not to let that dampen our fun, so they approached their loss as an opportunity to purchase some French fashion and to utilize the French health care system. John learned that American bodies don’t fit well in skinny French pants and that he could save a lot of money on his medications in the French pharmacy. Jan looked fabulous in her new clothes!

Nantes is France’s third largest city, but it has a small town feel. The city center is charming and walkable. You can follow the 7.5 mile Green Line through town, past architectural highlights and public art installations, or you can ride the free trolley. Taxis and Ubers are plentiful and there is a tram, which we rode to the soccer stadium. Adults can enjoy nearby vineyard tours, but we chose to spend our free day visiting the kid-friendly Les Machines de I’lle. We rode the three-story carousel made of steel creatures a la Jules Vernes’ Twenty Thousand leagues Under the Sea. After that, we observed “the mechanical elephant” but declined to spend the waiting time to ride it. The kids preferred a stop in the gift shop and then it was on to lunch at a riverside restaurant.

On Wednesday, July 31, the nine of us took the tram to the Nantes soccer stadium to see the Nigerian Women battle the Japanese Women for our first Paris 2024 event. Even at 5pm, the sun was intense and the temperature about 37 degrees Celsius (close to 100 F) . When we spotted empty seats in the shaded section, we moved! We drank plenty of water and ate some salty snacks to keep us from dehydration. The game was exciting, the Japanese prevailed 4-1. After the game, we boarded the tram for the ride back to town and some refreshing gelato at Amorino.

Our stay in Nantes gave us a chance to recover from overseas travel and adjust to the time zone before our stay in Paris. We were unprepared for the extreme August heat and many hotels in France do not have air-conditioning. We ended up changing hotels after our first night in Nantes; not the hotel’s fault. Nantes is a great destination to enjoy leisure activities, good food, and friendly people.

(Double-click on photos for better viewing)

Soccer in the Sun

Next Stop: Paris

Adventures In The South Goes To Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

On January 9th, we escaped (barely) the Chicago winter. It was snowing at O’Hare Airport and I wondered if our flight would be canceled. It was not, but many were in the days to follow. After a somewhat turbulent flight, we arrived safely in Madrid the next morning. We checked into The Radisson Blu Hotel near The Prado. Manuel at the front desk served us coffee while we waited for our room, recommended Los Gatos for a light lunch, made us a dinner reservation at El Barril de las Letras, and arranged a taxi back to the airport for our flight to Tenerife the next morning. The weather in Madrid was cool, but pleasant and we spent an enjoyable afternoon strolling the area. After a shower and a rest, we were on Spanish time and headed out for an 8:30 dinner; late for us, early by Madrid standards. We stopped for a drink in the cocktail lounge at The Westin Palace Hotel. It is an iconic landmark, built for the wedding reception of King Alfonso XII in 1912. Since then it has been frequented by a number of celebrities, including Ernest Hemingway. The bartenders were professional and friendly and the manager was happy to answer our questions and let us take a look around. Then we enjoyed a delicious dinner at El Barril. We have been to Madrid multiple times and it always feels like an old friend while offering opportunities for new experiences.

The next morning, we flew to Santa Cruz, Tenerife for a four night stay in the island’s capital. Many tourists skip Santa Cruz in their rush to get to the resorts on the other side of the island; for others it is a port of call on their cruise itinerary. We are retired, and therefore have the luxury of time. We enjoyed leisurely strolls in the very walkable historic section, great meals at reasonable prices, and excursions to nearby towns. We stayed at The AC Santa Cruz. The location was perfect and the room was small, but comfortable. The rooftop bar and pool area offers a great view of the city, good drinks and tapas. The party on the roof goes until 1:00 am, so some nights our room was noisy.

On our first night in Santa Cruz, we were fortunate enough to walk in and get a table at La Hierbita. Built in 1893, it was the first restaurant in the city. The front room is a bar with a few tables and the back area, once the brothel, is now an additional dining room. The menu features fresh seafood and other local options. Canarian cuisine is a fusion of traditional Spanish, Moroccan, tropical island produce and international influences. We shared a salad, roasted octopus ( the specialty of the house), and a bottle of Canarian red wine. We enjoyed chatting with the three young French gentlemen pictured above. The one in the center reminded me of a young Johnny Depp.

Colorful buildings in the Historic center

The next morning, we discovered La Escala, a corner coffee shop in the back streets of the historic district. The setting retains its old world charm, while offering an array of tempting coffee drinks and healthy, delicious breakfast options. Next, we headed to the market to have a look around. The bridge which leads to that side of the city was crowded with people walking in both directions. The market itself was bustling. I love the atmosphere of foreign markets! Too bad we just had breakfast, because there are always good eating options.

After strolling the market, we headed across the street to sit in the shady square and observe the locals and the tourists. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the great weather and the slower pace of life. We chatted with a friendly German couple who were there on a cruise of the islands.

On our walk back from the market, we stopped at the Museum of Fine Arts. The building was once part of the adjoining church and later was the public library until the new one was built. Admission was free and there were only a few visitors. We enjoyed their collection of paintings and sculpture.

After a full day and of strolling through Santa Cruz, we took an evening walk to see the lights of the city. We passed the site where British Admiral Horatio Nelson led an attack on the city in 1797. Nelson lost his right arm and Tenerife remained under Spanish control. We had dinner at La Concepción, the restaurant nearest the church. In Spanish towns, we have always found a good local restaurant next to the church. At La Concepción, we enjoyed Canarian food and wine and the company of the friendly locals at the next table.

Historical Banner Commemorating the battle with the British

On Saturday, our third day in town, we took the tram to La Laguna, a historic town 40 minutes away. It was originally the capital of Tenerife and was the home of many wealthy merchants. It’s grid of streets was the model for Spanish colonial cities in the Americas. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The colorful buildings and beautiful balconies create a charming backdrop to the many sidewalk cafés. We had a delightful lunch at a small Lebanese café.

We visited the Museum of Tenerife History, housed in a 16th century mansion. There we were able to gain some historical context for our trip. The Canary Islands were vital to Spain’s conquest of the New World, because they were the last port before the Atlantic crossing to Cuba. They were vital to the trade in goods and later in slaves. Slaves from mainland Africa were brought to Tenerife to be loaded onto ships bound for the colonies. The museum also explained the various industries in Tenerife: sugar cane, tobacco, winemaking, blacksmithing, carpentry, textiles, and agriculture. Today the island’s economy is mainly banana production and tourism.

The Holy Cross used in the first mass that gave the city its name

On Sunday morning we attended mass at La Iglesia de la Concepción in Santa Cruz. It was sparsely attended. Then we took the bus to Playa de las Teresitas, about 30 minutes outside the city. The route is not very scenic; we passed a number of oil storage tanks. The beach itself is manmade with golden sand brought in from the Sahara. It is a beautiful setting with the mountains protecting the cove from strong winds. The water was calm and we saw open water swimmers, paddleboarders, and a sport that looked to be beach pickleball. After a couple of delightful hours on the beach, we walked to the nearby fishing village and enjoyed some delicious grilled fish at a local restaurant. Then we got back on the bus for the trip back to the city.

The next morning we packed up to taxi to our next destination on the other side of the island. I’ll leave you with some final shots of Santa Cruz.

Next stop : Los Gigantes

A Deeper Dive Into Madrid’s Art and Food Scene

March 13-17, 2022 -Last Stop on The Adventure

We have been to Madrid several times in the past, and it has always been one of our favorite cities. If you would like my suggestions for first time visitors, message me.

On this visit, we stayed on Calle Arenal, near The Puerta del Sol. It was a very convenient location, but there was quite a bit of street noise.

We visited two museums that are a little further away from the center of things. Both are walkable if you don’t mind a couple of miles. The Metro (subway) will get you a lot closer, and a taxi works as well. Due to weather conditions, we walked there and taxied back.

The first of these was The Sorolla. Joaquín Sorolla (1863- 1923) was an Impressionist painter from Valencia who is best known for his beach scenes. I confess to not being previously familiar with his work, but both Bill and I liked it very much. The collection is housed in his family home, built in 1910, which has been left much as it was at the time of his death.

Our second museum was the Lázaro Galdiano Museum, housed in the mansion of José Lázaro Galdiano (1862-1947). He was an editor and financier who married wealthy Argentine widow Paula Florido in 1903; they built the mansion to showcase their private collection of archeological and religious artifacts, paintings, ivories, swords, knives, coins, textiles, and furniture. We visited on a Monday morning and there was only one other visitor. We were able to ask questions of the guards and since they were bored, we practically got a guided tour.

Our third museum was The Prado, because we just can’t go to Madrid and skip the Prado. Photos are not allowed. The Prado should be at the top of your Madrid list. The collection is extensive and international, but heavily focused on the Old Masters of Italy and Spain. It houses the “Royal Collection”, so a stroll through The Prado is another way to experience the history of the Monarchy. If your time (and energy) are limited, grab a floor plan and visit the El Greco, Velásquez, and Goya galleries. What about Picasso, you say? The Prado collection stops in 1883. For Impressionism and Contemporary Art, visit the Reina Sofía Museum and The Thyssen- Bornemisza Museum. Both of these are fabulous, but since we visited them on previous trips, I won’t go into detail here. Another side note: Malaga and Barcelona both have Picasso Museums.

On this trip, we had lunch at Restaurante Botín, founded in 1725 and certified by The Guinness Book of Records as the “World’s Oldest Restaurant.” With all of my times in Madrid, I had never eaten there. Despite it being a tourist destination and despite our rather rude waiter, we enjoyed our lunch there. The food was excellent and the prices surprisingly affordable. It was also a “Hemingway Haunt.”

Another day, we enjoyed lunch at Zerain, a traditional Basque restaurant owned by a delightful woman. The walls were decorated with vintage photos of San Sebastián. When we told our waiter we had recently spent time there, he sent the owner over to talk with us. She was adorable and the our meal was excellent.

We also enjoyed a couple of tapas crawls. There are several good places in Plaza Santa Ana to enjoy wine and food outdoors or in. Plaza Oriente also has a couple of options and great views of the Royal Palace, which is lit up at night. Plaza de la ´Opera has a lively evening vibe and several cafés and restaurants.

If you recall my first blog post, I told the story of our last Madrid evening in 2020. We were enjoying calamares and wine at Cuatro Robles when the news of the Pandemic came on TV, and citizens were told to prepare for a shutdown. Two years later, we told that story to our waiter and the bartender. They were enjoyed our story. By the way, their calamares are still the best.

Views of Puerta del Sol from Zapstop Coffee ( a shoe store with a top floor coffee shop)

Do you notice a haze in the above photos? That is due to “la Calima”, the Saharan sands that covered the Iberian Peninsula on March 15th. It created an eerie orange glow and poor air quality. Those COVID masks came in handy! When it rained, muddy sand flowed through the streets and puddled on the walkways.

Could this be a sign that it is time to fly home?

The day before our flight back to The States, we needed a negative COVID test. The staff at our hotel (Francisco I) made the appointment for a clinician to come to our room to administer the test. Within 10 minutes, we had our results and within an hour, we had an email certifying our freedom to fly. (Add 90 Euros to the cost of the trip.)

March 17th (Happy St. Patrick’s Day!) was a long day of travel, but we got home without incident. We are happy to be home and reconnecting with family and friends after a great winter in Spain! Thank you for following along.

Geri

Historic Toledo: A UNESCO World Heritage Site

March 12-13, 2022

There’s A Lot of History in These Cobblestones

The historic section of Toledo well-preserved and much visited. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Toledo is an easy day trip from Madrid by car, train, or on a bus tour. However, it really is deserving of a one or two night stay. The day tours depart in the late afternoon, leaving town a lot less crowded. After dark, it is easier to imagine Toledo as it was in the Middle Ages. The monuments are lit at night, creating dramatic vistas.

We used some points and splurged for a night at The Eugenia de Montijo, a lovely boutique hotel in the Jewish quarter. We arrived early on our first day and were welcomed by Ana, who stowed our suitcase and called La Orza to make a dinner reservation for us.

Then, we were off to see the many museums in the neighborhood! The historic center is small with narrow, winding streets, that are sometimes steep and slippery. Proceed slowly! This small quarter is a microcosm of Spanish history from ancient times, to the Romans (192 BC), the Visigoths (6th century), the Moors (712-1085), and the Christians (1095-). Under the Moorish occupation and part of the Christian domination (roughly 1075-1350), there was religious tolerance and a flourishing of learning and culture among the three major religions (Islam, Judaism, Catholicism).

We began our day at the Sephardic (Jewish) Museum in the former synagogue El Tránsito. Besides the beautiful architecture, there is an informative exhibit of Jewish History in Spain. Below the building are reconstructed Roman ruins. Another former synagogue, renamed Santa María La Blanca when it was converted to a Christian church, is now on exhibit to honor it’s Arab architects and builders, and those who once worshipped there.

Next, it was on to the “El Greco” sites. El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), titled The Greek (1541-1614), is considered the icon of the Spanish Renaissance. He came to Spain in 1577 and lived mainly in Toledo until his death. The El Greco museum is housed in a replica of what may have been his home in the Jewish quarter (long after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492.) The museum contains stunning originals of his art, and there is a video slideshow of El Greco works from museums and churches in other places. The El Greco Museum served as a model for displaying art in historical context.

**The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (San Telmo Chapel)**

After a lunch stop at an outdoor café, it was on to The Santa Cruz Museum and The Royal Monastery of Saint John. The Santa Cruz Museum showcases Spanish religious art from the 15th and 16th centuries. It also traces the history of the monarchy. I won’t attempt a summary, but it is important to note that the marriage of Isabella of Castilla and Phillip of Aragon in 1469 centralized the government of Spain. In 1492, they expelled the Muslims and Jews who refused to convert to Catholicism, started The Inquisition, financed Columbus, and launched Spain’s Golden Age.

After a full museum day, we went back to our hotel for a siesta before heading out for the evening. We took a taxi to the other side of the river where there is a panoramic lookout. After stopping to take a few photos, we continued on to The Parador of Toledo for a drink. As I have mentioned before, Paradores are national hotels that are either in historic buildings or have great vistas. This one has great views of Toledo, but the decor in the bar area had a Franco area austerity. Presumably, the rooms are nice, but we were glad we stayed in town. After enjoying a glass of wine and some cheese, we caught a taxi back. I asked the driver about the castle (see above photo). He said that it is now used for youth educational camps. How cool is that? It reminds me of Hogwarts.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner at La Orza. The ambience was cozy and the owner and servers were very attentive and friendly. After dinner, we strolled toward the cathedral until it began to rain. Time to call it a day!

It was great to wake up to church bells and the rooftops of the historic district outside our window. After breakfast in the attractive lobby, we headed out to visit The Alcazar and The Cathedral. The Alcazar is a huge fortress that now houses a military museum. The museum traces the history of Spain’s many wars. After browsing many displays of armor, weaponry, and uniforms, we were ready for a coffee break. Then, it was on to the Cathedral of Toledo! The cathedral is huge and impressive. Tickets must be purchased at the Cathedral Store, a block away from the main entrance. Speaking of tickets, they are required at all of the buildings. We purchased a bracelet our first day for 10 euros each. Some of the museums did not accept the bracelet, but most of the time seniors were free anyway. So the bracelet may not have mattered. In high season, it might save you some time in line.

After visiting the cathedral, we enjoyed a good meal at a small Halal (Islamic) restaurant. This seemed to to mirror the historic diversity of Toledo and was a delightful finale to our visit.

Next Post: Madrid. Then Home!

Donostia/San Sebastián

Adventures In The South of Spain Heads North To Basque Country (March 1-7, 2022)

San Sebastián (Donostia in Euskara) has been on our “bucket list” for a while. We held off until March in the hopes that it would be warming up in the North by then. That was not quite the case; it rained four out of our six days. Sometimes the rain is a gentle mist; other times it is more persistent. The locals always have their umbrella handy, and waterproof jackets and footwear are a staple.

Despite the weather, it is an outdoor life. Runners, walkers, cyclists, swimmers, kayakers, paddle boarders, sailors, soccer players, and strollers share the boardwalk, the beach, and the bay. Beautiful La Concha Beach is the main attraction. The paseo maritimo (sea walk) loops the city and connects with the river walk.

We took a walking tour on our first day. I highly recommend this as a way to orient to any new city. Our guide was Fran from AirB@B Experiences. He conducted the tour in English, and Bill and I were the only participants. Fran is from Buenos Aires, but has lived in San Sebasti´an for 10 years and he really knows his history. We learned that the Basques are an ancient culture who speak Euskara, a language unlike any other spoken today. The city name was changed from Donostia to San Sebastián when a convent was built in the Middle Ages. The wall was built to discourage invaders. Fran showed us part of the original wall that was discovered when they built an underground garage. Above ground, the location of the original wall is marked by flowers. The wall was breached in the 1800’s by Napoleon’s army. Canon fire caused most of the city to burn down. Most of the rebuilding took place during The Belle Epoch, when the wealthy aristocrats of France summered in San Sebastián. French architects were hired, and thus there is a definite Parisian look and feel to the city. When the city needed to grow beyond its walls, they expanded in the direction of the sea with landfill.

Queen María Cristina had her vacation palace built here (Miramar.) Miramar reminds me of a Swiss chalet and the neighborhood around it has more of an Alpine look than Spanish. Since María Cristina was a Hapsburg (Austro-Hungarian) this makes sense.

More Views of San Sebastián

Food is celebrated in San Sebastián. The cafés and bars are busy from breakfast until closing, and after closing there are clubs. Locals, business travelers, and tourists have a lot of options when it comes to eating and drinking, and almost all of them are of high quality and fairly priced. We found a favorite coffee/ bakery for breakfast. The ladies who worked there were friendly, and by day three were joking with Bill, and complimenting him on his attempts to speak Spanish. I ordered a different pastry each day in the hopes of working my way through all of them. Alas, I ran out of days before I could complete my mission. For lunch, we generally popped into one of the numerous bars and sampled pintxos (Basque version of tapas). They are displayed in a case on the bar and you just tell the bartender or point to the ones you want. Some bars number their selections and give you a paper and pencil to indicate your choices. Our favorite pintxo bar was Barre-Barre, but seriously they are all good. Some nights, we went out for a nice sit-down dinner. The wine selection by the glass or bottle was always good and reasonable. Restaurants have a range of prices, but in general are still more reasonable than at home. However, if you are looking to splurge, there are a number of Michelin-starred restaurants, and restaurants hoping to become Michelin-starred. We didn’t splurge big, but we dined well in San Sebastián.

We also enjoyed going to posh hotels for a drink. The Hotel Lóndres on the bay has a bar/ restaurant with a view of the beach, but the bayside tables were only for hotel guests. We stopped in for a nightcap one evening. The drinks were fine, but the bartenders were a little snobbish. Another night, we went to Hotel Zenit, a converted convent and the lounge is in the former chapel. A unique experience, for sure! The bartenders were nice and the cocktail menu had cleverly named drinks like “The Novice”. However, our favorite experience by far was at Dry, the bar in the Hotel María Cristina on the river. We sat at the bar and chatted with Alberto, the bartender who has worked at the hotel for 52 years. Judging by his looks, he was a young teen when he started and has worked his way up to head bartender at Dry. Bill immediately asked, “Who is the most famous person you have met?” Without hesitation, Alberto answered “Bette Davis, when she was alive.” Bette’s portrait hangs on the wall and a photo of her smoking a cigarette is the menu cover. Alberto has also served drinks to Mick Jagger, Bruce Springstein, Robert DeNiro, and countless other celebrities. San Sebastián hosts an international film festival every September, and the rich and famous stay at this hotel. For $350 Euros in the off season you can too.

One day, we walked to the bottom of Monte Igueldo and took the Funicular (incline) to the top. There is an amusement park up there that has been shuttered since the 90’s. The views of the bay and city below are fabulous. We were able to snap a couple of quick photos before it rained and the entire place was totally fogged in with zero visibility. In search of shelter (and a bathroom) we found the Hotel Monte Vista. We had a coffee in their lobby and then had them call us a taxi to go back down. With the rain and fog and the abandoned carnival rides, it seemed like a good setting for a horror movie.

To offset the calorie consumption that is inevitable here, we found the local indoor pool and swam laps a couple of times during our stay. We also did a lot of walking along the seaside and through town (usually on our way to our next meal). We did not swim in the bay, although we witnessed other people taking the plunge into the cold Bay of Biscay. It is reportedly quite lovely in summer, but the crowds would be much bigger. I recommend you consider a visit to San Sebastián. The people are very welcoming. Three days is probably plenty for most people; our travel pace is much slower than average.

Next destination: Pamplona. Stay tuned!

Estepona: Charming Streets, Beaches, and Public Art (February 2022)

This is our third stay in Estepona. We learned about it from a British couple we chatted with in San Francisco back in 2016. In 2019, we stayed here for two weeks. In 2020, for three weeks. In 2021, we didn’t travel (COVID). Now, in 2022, we are here for the entire month of February.

Views From Our Balcony on Avenida España

The sun rises over the Mediterranean and on a clear day you can see Gibraltar.

We have been fortunate each time to find an apartment in our budget with the above views. I’m not sure how much longer that will be the case, as this town is undergoing a “great renovation”. We have observed big changes in the time we have been coming here.

The mayor, José María García Urbano, is ” a man with a plan”. He began with a 10 year proposal in 2011 and the work continues. His goals included: ending corruption, reducing municipal debt, renovating the crumbling historical center, building a sports complex and auditorium, attracting businesses willing to invest in the community, creating large pedestrian areas, promoting public art, public parks, and public gardens; all with the goal of attracting tourism to increase quality employment and improve public health. In short, to turn this small fishing village into the “Garden of the Costa del Sol,” while maintaining its small town charm and ensuring a good life for the local residents.

Public works are in evidence everywhere. Underground garages are being added to get more cars off the streets. The historic district is almost completely pedestrian with shops, bars, and restaurants. Flowers are planted and groomed by village employees, the sand on all the beaches is groomed daily, the boardwalk is washed every morning, the “senda litoral” (sea path) has been extended in both directions for hiking and biking. Eventually it will go all the way to Marbella. We have biked 7 miles in one direction before running out of path.

Public Parks and Public Works

So, life is good for the tourists, but is this all too good to be true? Will people get priced out of their neighborhoods with all of the luxury buildings going up? We have seen an occasional homeless person sleeping in the park, although far fewer than in other places. There is a planned complex of 100 affordable housing units. Contractors that wish to build here are required to contribute to the public fund for green spaces and community centers. Taxes have been significantly reduced and the inherited debt from previous administrations is almost gone. There is a screen in the rotunda with the “debt graph.” Sustainability is also a goal, so if solar panels are feasible for your dwelling, city hall pays for them. Oh, by the way, the mayor doesn’t accept a salary for the job.

The Charming Streets of Old Town Estepona

Murals on Buildings

The Orchidarium

A Few of Our Favorite Places

Public Sculpture

**Tribute to the Laborer and the Fisherman**

More Ways to Enjoy Estepona

**Paddle boarding** in the shadow of Gibraltar

Can you tell, I’m a big fan of this town? We love the weather! There has been sunshine almost every day, but even a cloudy day here is pretty nice. Daytime temperatures are in the 60’s and cooler at night, perfect for walking and biking. There are also great golf courses here if you like golf.

We have been swimming regularly at the indoor 25 meter pool and taking long walks along the sea path. On the beach, I look for sea glass and we have dipped our toes in The Mediterranean, but it’s still a bit chilly to plunge in. We have been making the rounds of our favorite bars and restaurants, and discovering new ones. We made friends with an Irish couple and have enjoyed a couple social dates with them. Our stay here ends March 1st. Then “adventures in the south of Spain” is heading north to San Sebastián. Stay tuned!

Thank you for reading. My reviews are purely based on our personal experience. I am unpaid for my opinions. I take my own photos and write my own content.

Geri

Discovering Arcos de la Frontera: A Magical White Village of the Cádiz Region

Arcos de la Frontera is one of Andalucías “white villages” : towns settled by the Moors (Muslim invaders from North Africa.) The term “la frontera” refers to the border between Muslim and Christian territories. The battles for Reconquest were often small local skirmishes for control of a single town. The white villages are usually up in the hills, so that invaders could be spotted from afar. The white buildings were coated in limestone to fight disease, and they have the added advantage of protection from the strong southern sun. The village streets are narrow and short. The resulting confusion put invaders at a disadvantage. Today’s invaders, the tourists, will wander about getting lost and thinking they have walked a long way, when really they have been going in circles. I speak from experience.

We went to Arcos by bus from Cádiz. The trip was comfortable and took about an hour and a half (far less if you rent a car). The bus station is in the lower city and our hotel was in the upper. We took a taxi up the mountain.

We were staying two nights at The Parador de Arcos de la Frontera. The Paradores in Spain are government hotels. To be designated a Parador, they are either in historic buildings, breathlessly situated geographically, or some combination of the two. This one has amazing vistas of the entire valley below. It was built in modern times, but is right next to the castle and blends perfectly with the historic streets of the upper town. This parador has 23 rooms, only 4 of which were full when we were there. Our room was lovely with an outside balcony and an amazing view of the valley. The common areas were charming and cozy, and the hotel restaurant was very good. Twice we chatted with local businessmen who meet daily in the lounge area for coffee or a “copa” (wine). Always a good sign when the locals come there.

The sites of Arcos could be covered in a day. There are two main churches (San Pedro and Santa María). I recommend going up the tower at Santa María; the views in the bell tower are spectacular. We went in the late afternoon and the light was beautiful. Again, we had the space to ourselves.

Besides the churches, there is a small art gallery, various lookout points, and some bars and restaurants in the historic section. The castle, it seems, is privately owned and only opens for tours four times a year. We spent a lot of time walking around the old streets and of course, taking pictures. Although we didn’t need two nights, we really enjoyed them.

I hope you enjoy these color and black and white photos of Arcos.