El Greco – Adventures In The South of Spain

Heraklion is often dismissed as too big, too busy, too gritty, because many visitors come to Crete for the “beachier ” destinations. They may only see the Heraklion airport. Cruise passengers might spend a day. We stayed there for 5 days at the end of our 8 weeks of winter travel to Athens, Cyprus, and Crete in 2026. We stayed at the GDM Megaron Historical Monument, a hotel right across from the harbor, where we enjoyed a lovely room with a small balcony facing the harbor and the Koules Fortress. In summer this would be a very busy place, ( and more expensive), but in early March there are not many ferries running and no large cruise ships. The hotel staff was delighted to have guests, there weren’t many of us, but you couldn’t tell by the size of the breakfast spread. Try as I might, I couldn’t get around to trying everything, even once. There was a rooftop bar with fantastic views of the Sea of Crete and the city. Too chilly for the rooftop pool, but not for enjoying a coffee, a glass of wine, or a light meal.

The harbor front is a popular jogging and strolling spot for both the locals and visitors. We took a walk there every day and loved seeing fishermen and local teenagers enjoying a private moment in the alcoves of the castle walls.

We spent one full morning touring the Koules Fortress, built by the Venetians during their occupation of Crete in the 16th century. Within the walls are some authentic displays to give you a feel for the castle’s heyday. The upper ramparts offer amazing views and photo ops.

Enjoying the castle grounds almost by ourselves

From Heraklion, it is a 25 minute drive to the Knossos Palace, an archeological site not to be missed. There is evidence of human inhabitants there in 7,000 BC (Neolithic Age). The palace remains date from the Bronze Age. Excavations that began in 1900 by Sir Arthur Evans indicate the original palace from the Minoan Civilization (circa1900BC ) was destroyed by an earthquake (circa 1700BC ) and rebuilt to serve as the leading center of Minoan, Crete until the Mycenaean Greeks conquered the Minoans around 1450 BC. The Palace was abandoned after 1350 BC, but the area was settled during the Greek and Roman periods.

We were able to hire an official guide when we arrived. She is an archeologist and to us, it was well worth the cost to visit the site with her. She explained everything we were seeing, and even told us about some of the interiors that she has been inside, but that are not open to the public. Study and restoration of the palace continues. Many of the frescoes on the site are replicas. The originals are on display at The Heraklion Archeology Museum. I strongly recommend visiting both places.

Excavation has revealed that the palace was 5 stories tall with staircases, corridors, courtyards, and thousands of rooms. The sprawling design is believed to have led to the myth of the Labyrinth and the Minotaur. Everywhere in Greece, documented history is intertwined with mythology.

Knossos Palace had a sophisticated system of aqueducts carrying fresh spring water and closed drains removing sewage. Large storage jars were uncovered that held oil, wine, seeds, and dried fish. Like the walls, these jars were decorated with artistic motifs.

Below: Photos of Knossos Palace

Remains of a well dating to the Neolithic Age Age

Below: A bust of Sir Arthur— He has been criticized by some historians for jumping to conclusions and being overly-imaginative in his restoration work, but I for one, LOVE IT!

Palace of Knossos

Bulls were a common subject in Minoan Art. Artifacts point to “bull jumping” as a sport or ritualistic practice. Frescoes and statues show athletes grabbing the horns and vaulting over a live bull.

Heraklion Archeology Museum– Visit the museum for an up close look at the treasures found at Knossos.

The city center of Heraklion is a pleasant area to stroll and to enjoy one of the many outdoor cafes. The locals all seem to have their favorite place to hang out and watch the parade of people enjoying the parks and plazas of their capital city.

The Historical Museum of Crete in Heraklion is small, but it is THE PLACE to see 2 early works by El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos) who was born in Crete. He later went to Italy and then to Spain, where he painted his well-known body of work.

Below: “The Baptism of Christ” and “View of Mt. Sinai and the Monastery of St. Catherine” by El Greco and other museum icons.

Dining in Heraklion is a treat. The local cuisine is fresh and seasonal from snack shops to fine dining. The bread has a home-baked heartiness and tastes fantastic with the local olive oil. Kabobs and seafood are great choices. The wine is tasty and complements the food.

Peskesi is Heraklion’s most popular restaurant and is worth the hype. In a cozy rustic setting you will enjoy friendly service and high-quality cuisine.

Our stay in Heraklion was a great ending to our three weeks on Crete. From there, we flew back to Athens for a night before the journey home to Chicago.

Thank you for reading. Enjoy your travels. Geri

March 12-13, 2022

There’s A Lot of History in These Cobblestones

The historic section of Toledo well-preserved and much visited. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Toledo is an easy day trip from Madrid by car, train, or on a bus tour. However, it really is deserving of a one or two night stay. The day tours depart in the late afternoon, leaving town a lot less crowded. After dark, it is easier to imagine Toledo as it was in the Middle Ages. The monuments are lit at night, creating dramatic vistas.

We used some points and splurged for a night at The Eugenia de Montijo, a lovely boutique hotel in the Jewish quarter. We arrived early on our first day and were welcomed by Ana, who stowed our suitcase and called La Orza to make a dinner reservation for us.

Then, we were off to see the many museums in the neighborhood! The historic center is small with narrow, winding streets, that are sometimes steep and slippery. Proceed slowly! This small quarter is a microcosm of Spanish history from ancient times, to the Romans (192 BC), the Visigoths (6th century), the Moors (712-1085), and the Christians (1095-). Under the Moorish occupation and part of the Christian domination (roughly 1075-1350), there was religious tolerance and a flourishing of learning and culture among the three major religions (Islam, Judaism, Catholicism).

We began our day at the Sephardic (Jewish) Museum in the former synagogue El Tránsito. Besides the beautiful architecture, there is an informative exhibit of Jewish History in Spain. Below the building are reconstructed Roman ruins. Another former synagogue, renamed Santa María La Blanca when it was converted to a Christian church, is now on exhibit to honor it’s Arab architects and builders, and those who once worshipped there.

Next, it was on to the “El Greco” sites. El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), titled The Greek (1541-1614), is considered the icon of the Spanish Renaissance. He came to Spain in 1577 and lived mainly in Toledo until his death. The El Greco museum is housed in a replica of what may have been his home in the Jewish quarter (long after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492.) The museum contains stunning originals of his art, and there is a video slideshow of El Greco works from museums and churches in other places. The El Greco Museum served as a model for displaying art in historical context.

**The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (San Telmo Chapel)**

After a lunch stop at an outdoor café, it was on to The Santa Cruz Museum and The Royal Monastery of Saint John. The Santa Cruz Museum showcases Spanish religious art from the 15th and 16th centuries. It also traces the history of the monarchy. I won’t attempt a summary, but it is important to note that the marriage of Isabella of Castilla and Phillip of Aragon in 1469 centralized the government of Spain. In 1492, they expelled the Muslims and Jews who refused to convert to Catholicism, started The Inquisition, financed Columbus, and launched Spain’s Golden Age.

After a full museum day, we went back to our hotel for a siesta before heading out for the evening. We took a taxi to the other side of the river where there is a panoramic lookout. After stopping to take a few photos, we continued on to The Parador of Toledo for a drink. As I have mentioned before, Paradores are national hotels that are either in historic buildings or have great vistas. This one has great views of Toledo, but the decor in the bar area had a Franco area austerity. Presumably, the rooms are nice, but we were glad we stayed in town. After enjoying a glass of wine and some cheese, we caught a taxi back. I asked the driver about the castle (see above photo). He said that it is now used for youth educational camps. How cool is that? It reminds me of Hogwarts.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner at La Orza. The ambience was cozy and the owner and servers were very attentive and friendly. After dinner, we strolled toward the cathedral until it began to rain. Time to call it a day!

It was great to wake up to church bells and the rooftops of the historic district outside our window. After breakfast in the attractive lobby, we headed out to visit The Alcazar and The Cathedral. The Alcazar is a huge fortress that now houses a military museum. The museum traces the history of Spain’s many wars. After browsing many displays of armor, weaponry, and uniforms, we were ready for a coffee break. Then, it was on to the Cathedral of Toledo! The cathedral is huge and impressive. Tickets must be purchased at the Cathedral Store, a block away from the main entrance. Speaking of tickets, they are required at all of the buildings. We purchased a bracelet our first day for 10 euros each. Some of the museums did not accept the bracelet, but most of the time seniors were free anyway. So the bracelet may not have mattered. In high season, it might save you some time in line.

After visiting the cathedral, we enjoyed a good meal at a small Halal (Islamic) restaurant. This seemed to to mirror the historic diversity of Toledo and was a delightful finale to our visit.

Next Post: Madrid. Then Home!