Geri Magnuson

Larnaca, Cyprus: Beautiful Beach, Ancient History, and Great Food

February 2-9, 2026

I must confess to knowing next to nothing about Cyprus prior to our trip there this winter. Its mild February temperatures were the main draw, and I had read some positive travel sites about it. The island is divided into Greek Cyprus in the south and Turkish Cyprus in the north. The Republic of Cyprus (Greek) is part of the EU. Turkish Cyprus is currently only recognized by Turkey.

We flew Aegean Air from Athens to Larnaca, about an hour and a half flight. Larnaca Airport is small and easy to navigate. We had arranged a taxi driver through our Air B and B host and after a 30 minute ride, we arrived at Finikoudes Beach. Our rental apartment was perfectly situated along the boardwalk and had beautiful seaside views. We were walking distance to everything we needed. There was a well-stocked mini-mart next door, owned and operated by a delightful Cypriot family. Multiple dining options and coffee shops line the beachfront. I could drink coffee in a different spot every day. And it is always served with a cookie and a smile!

The historic old town is only a few streets from the beach. St. Lazarus Church and Monastery and the surrounding artisan shops give an old world vibe to the neighborhood that contrasts with the holiday atmosphere of the waterfront.

Larnaca is family-oriented. Prices are affordable for middle-class Greek Cypriots to go for a long weekend or a family vacation. It also attracts visitors and retirees from the UK and other European countries. Jobs in the hotel and restaurant industries attract immigrants from Sri Lanka, India, the Philippines, Vietnam, Eastern Europe, and the Middle East. All of which gives Larnaca a vibrant international vibe.

Away from the beach and the old town, the city of Larnaca is expanding outward and upward. Construction of new buildings seems to be everywhere: apartments, offices, and business hotels. With that, of course, comes traffic.

Below: Some scenes of the beach and the promenade.

Finikudes Beach has a long stretch of fine golden sand and clean, clear water. I love the feel of the sand under my feet and the water on my toes. The Mediterranean is still pretty chilly in February, but some swimmers and waders brave it. Other popular activities include sailing, beach volleyball, pickleball, and cricket.

If you walk along the boardwalk, you will pass Larnaca Castle, a physical reminder of Larnaca’s long history. This has been a defensive site since Byzantine times, but the current fortress was likely built in the 1300’s AD, and then repurposed by the Ottoman’s in the 1600’s. Despite it’s uncertain provenance, it is worth the small entry fee (2 euros) and 20 minutes of your time to stroll the grounds and climb the ramparts for great views of the Mediterranean. There is a small museum with a few cabinets containing medieval artifacts and some wall displays of old photos of the harbor.

A couple of streets inland from the Castle is the Church and Monastery of St. Lazarus. The current church was built in 900 AD, but the story is much, much older. We visited the Church and the small Byzantine Museum in the former monastery. Inside of the beautiful Eastern Orthodox church is an ornate silver reliquary containing some bones of St. Lazarus. Below the main floor of the church is the tomb of St. Lazarus.

But wait, I wondered, recalling New Testament teachings. “THE Lazarus, brought back from the dead by Jesus?” Or a later in history Lazarus? There was a lack of helpful signage, so I approached the woman at the ticket counter of the museum.

“Good morning. I have a question.”

“Of course.”

“Is this THE Lazarus or were there two?”

“Yes, Lazarus of the Resurrection.”

“Brought back from the dead by Jesus?”

“Yes.”

“But, wait, how did he get here?”

“By boat. After the Crucifixion, he and his family came here. He became the Archbishop of Larnaca.”

Huh. Who knew? I followed up with some online research, and Church records corroborate the story. Here is a brief summary of what I found: (Wikipedia, History Hit, World History Encyclopedia)

-Lazarus, brother to Martha and Mary, and friend to Jesus, died of disease (circa 40 AD).

-After 4 days in a tomb in Bethany (near Jerusalem), Lazarus was resurrected by Jesus (John 11 )

-Fleeing persecution, he landed in KItion (present day Larnaca, Cyprus) He was ordained bishop by the Apostles Paul and Barnabus, and lived another 30 years. He was buried where his tomb lies today.

-In 890 AD, a marble sarcophagus was discovered with the inscription “Lazarus, friend of Christ.”

– Some (not all) of his relics were moved to Constantinople by Byzantine Emperor Leo VI, who ordered the construction of the church on top of the tomb. The church has suffered damage over the centuries, but careful restoration has been true to the original. It was converted to a mosque during the Ottoman Occupation (1571–1878), and then reinstated as an Eastern Orthodox church.

If you visit Larnaca, don’t skip this church. Besides its fascinating story, it is also gives you a chance to witness the local life away from the beach. The post office is across the street for anyone (besides me) who still mails postcards. There are two nice cafes in the church square, where you can choose a spot in the sun or the shade and enjoy a relaxing snack break.

Below: The Silver Reliquary and the Tomb of St. Lazarus in Larnaca

Below: Sunrise and Moonrise on the Mediterranean

Below: Some photos of food and coffee we enjoyed in Larnaca. There were plenty of dining options a short walk from our home base. In the winter season, reservations are not necessary. Portions are generous, I recommend sharing.

**Celebrating on our final night** **at Hobo’s Steakhouse**

Daytrip to Nicosia

An hour bus ride from Larnaca is the capital city of Nicosia. I had read that it is the last divided city in existence, at least officially. There is a United Nations Demilitarized Zone and a Green Line. This sounded intriguing so we planned a day trip to Nicosia.

We bought our bus passes at the main terminal, a ten minute walk to the end of the promenade. The bus stop was right across the street from our apartment. It rained on the day we went; one of our few rain days in Cyprus. Unfortunately, nothing ever looks as good in the rain. We hunkered under our umbrella and walked from the bus depot to the Paphos Gate, the last city gate through the city walls built by the Venetians (1489-1571). We walked through the gate for an outside view of what’s left of the wall. There wasn’t much to see, so we headed back in. Near the gate, inside the walls, is The Church of the Holy Cross, a Catholic Church. There are still Roman Catholics in Cyprus, even though most of the country is Eastern Orthodox. The rear exit of the church is sealed as it is on the Turkish side. On a hill beyond the church, a Turkish flag was visible. Other than that, we saw no evidence of the divided city or UN Green Line.

To get out of the rain, we headed to the Archeological Museum of Cyprus. This museum is a treat. Each gallery featured artifacts from a different time period in Cypriot history, so a walk through the museum is a visual walk through the island’s people from the Stone Age (10,00 BC) and Bronze Age (2400-1200 BC) through the Roman Empire (30 BC-600 AD). The audio guides are excellent , although a bit long winded for my taste. There were very few visitors, so we could take our time and get close to all of the displays. I was blown away by the scope of human history displayed here. These ancient people had a complex civilization. Cyprus was an important center for commerce during the Bronze Age, because they mined copper. This led to prosperous trading and a wealthy merchant class.

When we came out of the museum, the rain had let up. We walked toward the historic center in search of a coffee and some food. We found a cozy spot for a typical Cypriot brunch. Ledra Street is the pedestrian area lined with shops and restaurants. At one end of Ledra street is an unassuming booth. That is a checkpoint to enter the Turkish side. Although we had fully intended to cross, we realized we had left Larnaca without our passports. Those were safely stowed back at our apartment and we were carrying our passport cards, which might have sufficed, but we weren’t willing to chance it. Since we just toured Turkey last October, we weren’t too devastated. My passport has a Turkish stamp. Still, if you go to Nicosia, remember your passport! (and take some photos for me)

After brunch, we strolled to the nearby modern section of Nicosia.

From Larnaca, we are headed to the city of Limassol, Cyprus. Thank you for reading!

Geri

Soak Up The Sun in Scenic Chania

February 23-March 5, 2026

We flew from Paphos, Cyprus to Chania, Crete via Ryan Air. We arrived on time and after a quick baggage claim and passport inspection, we met Manolis, the taxi driver, arranged by our host. The drive from the airport was pleasant; we enjoyed seeing a little of the Cretan countryside with its rolling hills, olive trees, and vineyards.

Tosis, our host met us on the street and carried my luggage, while expressing his pleasure to meet us and proudly pointing out the features of our home for the next ten days. The building belonged to a governor during the Venetian Occupation (13th-17th century). The first level was his office and library and living area was above. We are staying in the restored and refurbished archive area. In keeping with strict archeological standards, the stone archways are original, the ceiling heights and window frame measurements are as they were in the 1300’s. The balcony metalwork was reproduced to strict historical requirements. Even wall paint colors must be approved.The stone archways are original , the wooden entry door is 100 years old. The antique furnishings blend seamlessly with the modern amenities. Tosi had equipped the bathroom and kitchen with essential items to get us started, even homemade biscuits and jam and a bottle of his private label wine.

He proudly showed us the bedroom and living room, both with floor to ceiling glass doors that open out to small balconies that overlook the Venetian Harbor, the lighthouse and the Palazzo below. I feel like I’m living on a movie set. Bill looked out the window one morning to see tourists taking pictures of our balcony.

Below: Photos of our “Palazzo” and its Views

**The 14th Century Arch between the kitchen and the front rooms**

We are in a great location for walking, so we take walks along the water and through town 2-3 times a day. Sometimes we have a destination, but mostly we just enjoy the sunshine and mild temperatures, stopping into a church, or a shop, or a charming local spot to enjoy a coffee.

**The Hill Down from our Place to Town**

We took a walking tour with Iosif of Air B and B experiences. Being the off-season, the group tour was private. For two hours, he walked us through town, sharing the history of Chania, pointing out the architectural features of the buildings and the stories behind them. I can now distinguish a Venetian home from an Ottoman home. The iron balconies are Venetian homes and the wooden enclosures are Ottoman. The architectural styles mirror the lives of the women: Venetian ladies participated in village street life, while their Muslim neighbors remained cloistered inside of their homes.

We left the “main drag” to stroll back alleys and narrow lanes, knowing we were walking on top of millennia of human history. Humans have lived and died in this part of the world since the Paleolithic Age. (more on that when we visit the Archeology Museum of Chania). Due to natural disasters (earthquakes and tsunamis) and wars, remains of the Byzantine era (330-1200 AD) and the subsequent Arab occupation (824-961 AD) are scarce, but parts of the original Byzantine city wall are still visible. Many more of Chania’s buildings from the Venetian (1204-1645 AD) and Ottoman (1645-1898 AD) occupations can be seen today. The different cultures are most obvious in the places of worship that have served as Orthodox churches or as mosques, at various times. Our tour finished with Greek coffee on the waterfront where old Greek men play backgammon with their friends.

Below: Some sites from our tour of Old Town, Chania

Iosif suggested we visit Chania’s Archeological Museum, so we made that our outing the next day. It was a 40 minute walk (with some uphill) to the opposite shore from the Venetian Port. The museum has a fine collection of local finds from the Stone Age through Roman times. The displays are nicely curated and the audio tour is very helpful. We especially appreciated the story of the Miser’s House in which an entire family fell victim to an earthquake in 365 AD, because instead of evacuating, they went back into the house to retrieve their valuables.

Below: Just a sampling of the items in the Archeology Museum.

The Chania Folklore Museum is a funky little place next to the Catholic Church. It is filled with farming tools, vintage looms, sewing machines, flatirons, rugs, tapestries, and linens. When we visited, I was able to chat with a local crafter who sewed scenes of her home village from memory.

Below: Handmade Items from The Folklore Museum

Another local experience in Chania is the Saturday Market. Fresh produce, olive oil, honey, and cheeses cover the tables lined up on two sides of Minoos Street. It is a great place to grab a fresh grilled souvlaki with a slice of bread for 1.5 euro; a little bit more for a “plate” and a beverage that is served at a sidewalk table, perfect for people watching. We met a nice Canadian couple there and have dinner plans with them tomorrow night.

Below: Market Photos

Chania has great dining options. Sadly, one of the downsides of winter travel is that many businesses shut down until the “season.” But not to worry, we have not gone hungry. There is still a variety of restaurants, taverns, and cafes to enjoy local Cretan specialties, fresh seafood, mouthwatering breads, dips, meat, pasta, vegetarian dishes, and sweets. Once the calendar turned to March, more places have opened. Be aware that portions are meant to be shared! Prices range from modest to fairly high end. We have yet to have a bad meal in Chania. I’m not a restaurant critic, but I’ll name a few of our favorites: Canale, AlmyVita, Manos, Pallas,

Below: Cretan Cuisine

If you come to Crete, I hope you like cats. Just as on Cyprus, cats rule here. They mainly live outside and appear to have their turf. There are two that frequent our courtyard and get quite loud at times. I’m not sure if we are expected to feed them; that was not listed in the house rules. On cold nights, there is one who joins us at the door hoping for an invitation to enter. We have not succumbed, even though we once loved our own two cats.

Below: Cats of Crete

The Maritime Museum is also worth a visit. It has a number of ship models, a model of Chania during the Venetian Occupation, old photographs of the harbor, and rooms full of Crete’s naval history. Your ticket includes access to Firka Fortress with sweeping views of the harbor and lighthouse.

Below: Shots from the Maritime Museum and Firka Fortress:

Below: Black and White Photos of Chania

I hope you have enjoyed reading about Chania, Crete and that you are inspired to travel in whatever style works for you. Thank you for reading. Geri

Athens : Modern Comforts Amid Ancient Wonders

50 Years Later

I visited Athens as a college student in December, 1975. Bill had never been there, so we decided to make it our launch point for a winter abroad. Having immersed ourselves in the ancient worlds of Sicily and Turkey this past year, it seemed only logical to circle back to ancient Greece. Bill’s sister Betty joined us for the adventure.

I was curious to see if the city has changed much and to determine who has aged better, me, or the Parthenon. Now to be fair, the Parthenon has had a lot of work done, but she looks amazing for her 2,472 years of exposure to natural and human forces. My mere 70 years cannot compare.

We arrived in Athens at 3:00 am, local time after an actual 24 hours of travel. Our flight from Chicago to Munich, then Munich to Athens was delayed leaving O’Hare, and after an hour in flight, the captain announced that we were turning around, dumping fuel and returning to Chicago for repairs to the navigation system. This was a first for us and one I could do without. After 3-4 hours waiting in Chicago and missing our connection, we were once again on our way. In Munich, we faced another 4 plus hours before our next flight. Feeling bedraggled, we charmed (begged) our way into the Lufthansa Business Lounge for a daily fee of 50 euros each. It was well worth it for comfortable furniture and a buffet of food and drink options. The next flight was uneventful and we made it to our oasis of comfort: the Divani Palace Acropolis Hotel. I don’t get paid to say this: it was a lovely hotel with a good breakfast and a delightful staff. Quite the upgrade from my youth hostel experience 50 years ago.

The next day was devoted to recovery: hydration, food, and rest. As a young traveler, I would have hit the ground running despite exhaustion, existing on street food and adrenaline. These days, we pace ourselves and can sometimes splurge on fine dining with a view. So, for our first dinner in Athens, that’s what we did.

**Dinner at “Acropolis Secret”** **rooftop**

A Morning Tour of Athens

After our day of recharging and strolling around our neighborhood, we were ready to scale the Acropolis on a morning tour with Viator. Winter season resulted in our small group tour consisting of the three of us, a driver, and our guide Athena. On the short drive, she gave us an overview of the day’s itinerary and some background information on history, government, and mythology.

Acropolis, means “high city” in Greek. It is the focal point of Athens. No building may be more than 4 stories, so as not to block anyone’s view of the temples. We arrived in the parking lot, where we met Peggy, our guide for the Acropolis. We made small talk as we walked up through a park with manicured paths that have been graded and surfaced to accommodate the contemporary visitor. It was nothing like my memories of walking straight up the hill from the streets of the Plaka neighborhood. Peggy explained that the site was modernized in anticipation of the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens. They even installed an elevator, but be aware it only holds 2 people at a time.

Before arriving at the entrance to the Parthenon complex, we paused to admire the view of the city below and to see the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built during the Roman period (161 AD). It was built for musical performances, was restored in 1950, and today it hosts opera, theatre, and concerts during the Athens & Epidaurus Festival.

After admiring the Odeon below, it was time to look up to our left and back in time 500 years to ancient Greece. Peggy explained that we would climb the stairs to the ancient entrance gate to the temple site, the Propylaea. Ordinary Athenians could leave offerings at the gate and at the entrances of the individual temples, but only the priests and priestesses had access to temple interiors. Therefore, most of life’s day to day activities took place below the Acropolis at the Agora.

It was a perfect morning with blue skies and sunlight reflecting off the marble columns. The temperature was comfortably cool and the comparatively small number of visitors allowed us time and space to take photos and to take in the ambience at a leisurely pace.

The first temple inside the complex is the Temple of Athena Nike, honoring Athena as a victor. It appears small by comparison to the others, but it is perfectly proportioned and beautifully restored.

Another notable temple is the Erechtheion. Built around 410 BC on the ruins of a former temple, it was dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon, who according to legend, were in competition for control of the city (Earth vs. water). On the front right corner is the Porch of the Caryatids. The Caryatids are carved marble support columns. Originally, there were 6. The 5 you see today are replicas. We saw the restored originals in the Acropolis museum. (No photos allowed). If you have time, it is a worthwhile museum.

Finally, the largest and most recognizable temple is the Parthenon, built between
447–432 BCE to honor Athena Parthenos (the virgin) , daughter of Zeus, and the goddess protector of Athens. The Parthenon is as impressive as ever. It was planned to perfection to please the eye. The architects purposefully placed certain columns “off-kilter” to allow for optical illusions from a distance. Peggy explained the mathematics, the building materials, and the construction process to enhance our understanding. She showed us where a 40 foot statue of Athena once stood. Today, despite painstaking restoration work, the temple remains an empty shell. Scaffolding indicates the ongoing repairs that take place under strict UNESCO rules. It was designated a World Heritage Site in 1987,which explains why my memories from 1976 are of the rocky ruins of a once great temple all but abandoned. But then and now, to stand in front of the Parthenon is a momentous experience and one that may stay with you for 50 years. I am grateful that I was able to return to experience it once again.

Temples of the Acropolis

The City Below the Acropolis

After the Acropolis, our tour made a quick stop at Parliament for the Changing of the Guard ceremony in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The soldiers march in perfect synchronization, which appears to be more of a dance than a march.

Next, we stopped to see the Olympic Stadium, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. It was used for Opening Ceremonies and for the Discus competition. Today, it is a large concert venue and the finish line for the Athens Marathon. The Olympic Flame is kept at Olympia and makes the journey to the site of the Games. Currently, dual Olympic flames have been lit at Milan and Cortina, Italy for the 2026 Winter Games, a historic first.

We then visited hectic Monastiraki Square and walked through the Monastiraki and Thissio neighborhoods that border the Ancient Agora. This was where ancient Athenians gathered, bought and sold goods, and exchanged ideas. Today, it continues to draw crowds, albeit tourists. Venders set up their souvenir stands where ancient Athenians once sold their goods.

Dining in Athens

And now, for Greek food! I must say, we never had a bad meal in Athens. From fine dining to neighborhood taverns, or even a humble gyros sandwich at lunch, Greek food was always fresh, well-prepared, and served by truly friendly people. Prices, while not astoundingly cheap, were definitely cheaper than we are used to at home. Portions are large; sharing is best. Greek beer is pleasantly refreshing and Greek wine is very drinkable, while not necessarily memorable. The house wine is fine. Cheers!

A Sunset Tour

A one hour plus drive south of Athens is Cape Sounion, the site of the Temple of Poseidon. We chose a sunset tour with Viator to take us there. The temple was built around the same time as the Parthenon. 18 of its original 36 columns remain. Situated at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, it overlooks the Aegean Sea. It was a landmark for sailors and a place where they would pray to Poseidon, the god of the seas. The impressive structure is especially impressive in the golden hour before the sun sets over the water.

The Temple of Poseidon at Sunset

**Bill, Betty, Geri at the Temple of Poseidon**

National Museum of Archeology

Rain was forecasted for Sunday, so we headed to the National Museum of Archeology for the morning. Sundays are free days, so there was a bit of a line at 10:00 am, but luckily the rain held off. We spent about 2 hours, but it would require a full day to see it all.

This museum houses Greek art from 7,00BC to 500AD. The rooms are arranged chronologically and I found the wall maps to be very helpful in understanding the scope and development of the Greek civilization. The museums audio tour is good; you will need your phone and earbuds.

While we were inside the museum, it rained quite heavily, but was tapering off when we exited. The line was really long by this time, snaking form the entrance, through the plaza out in front and down the sidewalk for blocks. I estimated a wait of 1-2 hours. We headed to Ermou Street in Athens’ historic center. Since my last time there, the area has been pedestrianized and features some high-end stores amid the souvenir stands. Restaurants and coffee shops line the sidewalk and they were doing a brisk business. We stopped for a gyros sandwich and a beverage to fuel us for a visit to Church. Uh, churches.

Panagia Kapnikarea on Ermou Street (11th century) and Athens Cathedral (mid 19th century)

One of Athens’ oldest churches is the Panagia Kapnikarea. Built during the Byzantine era, it has survived and stands as a reminder of the flourishing culture and architecture of Athens during medieval times. It is an active Orthodox church today and visitors are welcome to visit the inside of the church and the basement displays of religious icons and treasures, except during services. This was explained to us by a member of the congregation who had stepped outside for a cigarette during the long Sunday service.

A short walk from the Byzantine church is the Athens Cathedral, which is the National Cathedral of Greece and seat of the Greek Orthodox Church. Building began in 1842 after independence from the Ottoman Turks, and was completed in 1862. Constructed with marble blocks salvaged from the ruins of churches throughout Athens, its style blends Neoclassical and Byzantine Revival Architecture. Formally named “The Church of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary,” whose feast day is March 25, it is not likely coincidental that March 25th is also Greek Independence Day.

Plaka- Athens’ Oldest Neighborhood

After a full day of touring, we strolled “home” through Plaka, the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhood of Athens. The walk involved a considerable number of stairs and squeezing through sidewalk cafes, but there were some delightful surprises along the way. Eventually, we emerged at the Acropolis Museum, a short distance from our hotel.

Athens is a city to be savored. You could whip through its major sites in a day or you could stay a bit longer and enjoy the sunshine, the food, and the people. It has certainly been built up and modernized in the last 50 years, yet New Athens blends gracefully with ancient Athens. Often when a foundation is dug for a new building, important archeological sites are uncovered and construction is halted or delayed indefinitely. There are challenges to protecting your heritage. The Greek people take great pride in their history and culture.

I hope you have enjoyed accompanying me on my Athens Adventure 2026. I am independent and unpaid. Photography and narratives are my own. Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next destination: Cyprus

Exploring Istanbul: A Journey through Time

October 2025

Just the name Istanbul conjures up exotic images of the ancient world: crowded bazaars, mysterious harems, dens of iniquity, historic battles, biblical references, and political intrigue. Called Constantinople until 1930, when it officially became Istanbul, this city has a fascinating history. Geographically straddling Europe and Asia, strategically placed on two sides of the Bosphorus Strait, it has always been a tempting conquest. The Bosphorus connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara which links to the Aegean and Mediterranean via the Dardanelles Strait. Constantinople was a stop on the ancient Silk Road, so commerce and foreign visitors are part of its DNA.

The city has provided an iconic setting for films such as “Murder on the Orient Express,” and two James Bond films: “From Russia with Love” and “Skyfall.” I have long desired to experience it, but we had some trepidation about navigating Turkey on our own. We mostly travel independently, but occasionally opt for a guided tour. If we only wanted to go to Istanbul, we could have arranged our own transportation and lodging and signed up for day tours of the major sites. However, we wished to see more of Turkey and after doing some research, we concluded that a bus tour was the most convenient way to see the more remote locations. We went to Istanbul ahead of the tour to acclimate and explore a bit on our own.

Our non-stop flight from Chicago arrived mid-morning after a somewhat cramped flight on Turkish Airlines. My visions of ancient Constantinople did not exactly jive with the huge modern airport of Istanbul. After a lengthy, but uneventful walk through baggage claim and passport control, we located our pre-arranged driver to take us to our hotel in the Levent district. It turns out that we were staying in the business and convention area of the city and far from the historic center. Istanbul traffic is a nightmare; traffic jams are so commonplace that vendors sell bottled water and sesame rolls on the highway. If you think Chicago expressways have gridlock, you should experience Istanbul.

The hotel (Wyndham Grand, Levent) was lovely and had plenty of modern amenities. We were able eat a great buffet breakfast, take a swim, unpack and rest before heading back into the city center for dinner at a rooftop restaurant with great Turkish food and beautiful views of the city at night.

A couple poses for a selfie with a mosque featuring multiple minarets in the background in Istanbul. — **Geri and Bill in Levent District**

A couple dining at a cozy table in a warmly lit restaurant, with wine glasses and a bottle visible on the table. — **Geri and Bill in Levent District**

We had two more days to explore the city on our own before meeting our tour guide and travel companions. We began our sightseeing with a visit to the Topkapi Palace, where we joined a guided day tour. Don’t skip Topkapi Palace! It is a huge complex of buildings, really a city within a city. We ended up visiting twice and still didn’t see it all. The kitchens alone served 10,000 meals per day to the sultan and his family, the palace staff , court officials, guards, and townspeople who were welcomed onto the grounds to eat. Today, you can get a sense of the vastness of the kitchens by observing the chimneys that once vented the huge ovens. Only parts of the kitchen buildings are open to the public for viewing exhibits.

Exterior view of a historic building with distinct chimneys, surrounded by manicured gardens and tall trees against a cloudy sky. — **The Kitchens of Topkapi**

Topkapi Palace gives you a feel for life during the Ottoman Empire. Built in the 1500’s by Mehmed II it served as the residence of the sultans and the seat of government for 400 years. In 1924, it was converted to a museum by Mustaf Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic and was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. The palace buildings house weapons, jewels, manuscripts, and religious relics from the Jewish, Christian, and Islamic faiths. I was surprised to see the staff of Moses , the sword of David, and bone fragments of St. John the Baptist, along with the footprint of Muhammad and letters written by Muhammad.

Enjoy the following photos of Topkapi Palace.

A pair of vintage earrings featuring gold hooks and intricate designs with sparkling clear stones, complemented by vibrant green teardrop-shaped gems. — Precious Jewels in the Treasury

Side view of the Hagia Sophia, showcasing its distinct architectural features, including the rounded dome and brick facade, surrounded by greenery. — Precious Jewels in the Treasury

A historical recreation of a figure in traditional Ottoman clothing seated in a room adorned with patterned tiles and a intricately designed couch. — Inside the Harem (Statue of a Black Eunich)

Interior view of a room in Topkapi Palace featuring intricate blue tile work and calligraphy on the walls, with visitors exploring and one person seated on a stone bench. — Inside the Harem (Statue of a Black Eunich)

After a morning at the palace, we visited the Spice Market for lunch at the famed Pandeli Restaurant, which has been serving up Turkish specialties since 1905 and has hosted Queen Elizabeth II and Hollywood royalty like Audrey Hepburn. The upstairs space has views of the crowded plaza and the busy Bosphorus below. The bustling dining room is staffed by smiling waiters. The food is tasty and menu prices are fair.

After lunch, we visited the “New Mosque” formally named Valide Sultan Mosque. Construction began in 1597, but due to political upheaval and a fire, it was not fully complete and dedicated until 1665. Today, the huge structure dominates the Spice Market and its surrounding outdoor market stalls. It is a thriving place of worship that welcomes respectful guests. Women should wear a head covering and everyone must remove their shoes.

After our visit to the mosque, we walked along the bridge, where locals gather to fish. Below the bridge are a number of restaurants that mainly cater to tourists. It was time for us to get an Uber to drive us back to our hotel.

Basilica Cisterns

Our next Istanbul site took us back to the 6th century during the Roman occupation. Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of the Basilica Cisterns, a huge underground structure to serve as water storage for the city. It is unknown today what the source of the water supply was. The builders repurposed building materials found in ruins on the site, many of which were Greek and Roman columns from ancient temples. Named “Basilica” Cisterns for its size and structural similarity to a cathedral, today it is a popular tourist attraction. The water is only there for effect these days. At times the cisterns are used as an event space for concerts and it appeared in Hollywood’s “From Russia with Love” and “Inferno.”

Time to Tour in Earnest

On the evening of our 3rd day in Istanbul, we met Metin, our tour director, and our fellow travelers. We had a busy two weeks ahead of us. Over the next few days, we had a guided tour of Istanbul’s major sites. We visited the Topkapi Palace and The Spice Market for the second time. We returned to Sultanahmet Square ( the. Hippodrome) and visited the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. We took a boat cruise on the Bosphorus and shopped at the Grand Bazaar.

Hagia Sofia– A Brief Summary of a Long History

-In 325 The first church on the site was built by Emperor Constantine I, for whom the city of Constantinople was named

-In 415, the second basilica was constructed in 415 and destroyed in 532

-In 532 Emperor Justinian had the church rebuilt.

– Hagia Sofia was the principle church of the Byzantine Empire (532-537)

-In the 1200’s it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral

-In 1453 Sultan Mehmed II converted it to a mosque after the Ottoman conquest

-In 1953, it was secularized and opened as a museum

-In 2020, it was reconverted to a mosque, but remains a UNESCO site and the second story level is open to visitors

Hagia Sofia dominates the landscape of central Istanbul. The construction cranes symbolize its ongoing reconstruction. From the outside you can observe the many architectural styles applied to this structure, as well as the religious symbols added throughout the centuries, like the minarets, dome, and gold finial on top of the dome added when the basilica was converted to a mosque. The interior contains remnants of the Christian eras on the upper level walls.

A view of the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, showcasing its distinct domes and minarets, set against a partly cloudy sky with a construction crane visible in the background. — **Hagia Sofia**

A historic mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, flanked by two Byzantine emperors, featuring intricate patterns and gold accents. — Mosaic in Hagia Sofia

Interior view of Hagia Sophia showcasing its intricate dome, decorative patterns, and large Arabic calligraphy signs on the walls. — Mosaic in Hagia Sofia

The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet- Better Known as the Blue Mosque

This mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and completed in 1616. Facing the Hagia Sofia across the square, it was built to compete with the famed pride of the Romans and the Byzantines, and to symbolize the supremacy of the Muslim Ottomans. The term “blue’ mosque comes from the blue Iznik tiles on the interior walls, but you will notice the blue domes and blue accents on its six minarets.

The Blue Mosque invites non-Muslims to visit except during prayer hours and holy days. There is usually a line, but it moves fairly quickly and the experience is worth it. Women must cover their heads and all visitors must remove their shoes. This is an active place of worship, so please maintain quiet and keep a respectful distance when taking photos.

The courtyard of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, showcasing its magnificent architecture with six minarets and domed roofs under a cloudy sky. — **Interior Courtyard of the Blue Mosque**

A decorative sign with calligraphy in gold against a blue background, set within a room featuring ornate patterned tiles reflecting traditional Turkish design. — **Iznik Tiles**

A bustling street scene in Istanbul with a prominent mosque in the background, showcasing its architectural details under a blue sky with clouds. — Blue Mosque

Interior view of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul, featuring ornate decorations, large windows, and worshippers on the orange carpet. — Blue Mosque

Local Food

Turkish food is fresh and largely features grilled seafood and meats, namely lamb, beef, and chicken (no pork). Mediterranean-style small plates are called “mezze’ and feature hummus and pita, tomatoes, a variety of olives, nuts, and dried fruits. Homemade yogurt from goats’ milk is always available at breakfast and is often served as a side sauce to accompany roasted vegetables. Many cheeses (mostly white) are made from goat and sheep milk. Turkish cuisine uses spices for flavoring, but is not spicy, if that makes sense. The local wine is drinkable; not memorable and can be expensive. Turks who imbibe like raki, a clear liquor made from distilled grapes and the seeds of anis, giving it a slight licorice flavor. Turkish beer is pleasant. Overall, Turkey did not appear to be a big drinking culture, but alcohol is accessible and served without judgement. Coffee and pastry shops are very popular. Traditional Turkish coffee can be found amidst the cappuccini and lattes favored by modern young Turks and tourists. Restaurant prices are on the expensive side, by that I mean fairly similar to what we are used to in the US.

A piece of Turkish pastry served on a decorated plate, featuring a golden-brown flaky exterior and a sprinkle of coconut on top. — **Turkish Baklava**

A plate of Turkish salad with pomegranate seeds and spinach next to a serving of flatbread and a bowl of yogurt on a wooden table. — **Fresh Pita and Hummus**

A plate of Turkish kebab served on flatbread with grilled vegetables, rice, and fresh herbs. — **Fresh Pita and Hummus**

Two golden, fried pastries on a white plate, served in a restaurant setting. — Cheese Puffs

A partially finished serving bowl of Turkish salad featuring diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and walnuts, with a spoon resting inside. — Cheese Puffs

Bosphorus Cruise

You get a whole new perspective of Istanbul from the water. The Bosphorus Strait separates Europe from Asia. Our group enjoyed a narrated cruise where we learned more history and had a chance to observe palaces, mansions, landmarks, hotels, and yachts without traffic or crowds. This is a must-do in istanbul.

A couple smiling and posing for a selfie on a boat with a large bridge in the background. The scene depicts a waterway surrounded by greenery and buildings along the shore, under a partly cloudy sky. — Crossing between Europe and Asia

A couple posing for a selfie at the waterfront in Istanbul, with boats and a cloudy sky in the background. — Crossing between Europe and Asia

The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is nothing like I imagined. It resembles an indoor suburban mall more than the historic, 15th century iconic market it once was. Matin told us it is mostly for the tourists now, but that locals still go there for big-ticket jewelry items like wedding rings. We walked past one jewelry store after another featuring sparkling gold, silver, and gemstones. The vendors were friendly, but not aggressive. Still, the experience was overwhelming and after venturing down a few side aisles and snapping a few photos, we had seen enough. For a slightly more authentic (and cheaper) market experience, go to the Spice Market.

It was time for coffee and pastry at Hafiz-Mustafah, a famous name that lived up to the hype.

Entrance to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, featuring a bustling crowd of visitors, Turkish flags hanging above, and the historic architecture of the market entrance. — Gate 1 to the Bazaar

A bustling scene inside the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, with shoppers exploring shops adorned with Turkish flags hanging from the ceiling. — Gate 1 to the Bazaar

Istanbul is an evolving city. It preserves and celebrates its long and fascinating history, while continuing to grow with the times. Today, it is a lively and modern center of education, commerce, tourism, and medicine. It is a destination for cosmetic procedures, such as hair transplants, facial reconstruction, and dental implants. Its citizens are welcoming. The security of visitors is a priority. You should take the usual precautions with your wallet and valuables, especially when in crowded spaces, but we never felt unsafe.

There is so much to see and do in Istanbul. The number of days you should devote to it depends on your style of travel. While 3 packed days would be plenty for some, others would need a week or more to do it justice. I would recommend staying in a hotel in the historic center, where you can walk or take the tram to most points of interest. We found that the UBER app worked best for the taxis, to avoid communication or navigation failures.

A tour will take you to the highlights and take care of all of the details, but you may feel rushed or restricted. We enjoyed our tour for the attention to detail and social aspects, but we were glad we did those two additional nights on our own. If you decide to visit Istanbul independently, then sign up for guided day tours to learn the background information. Enjoy!

View of two tall, modern buildings with distinctive domed roofs against a cloudy sky in Istanbul. — **New city**

A stone wall with towers along an empty street in Istanbul, with a cloudy sky above and a few people walking nearby. — **New city**

The Stunning Valley of the Temples in Agrigento,Sicily

February 16-18, 2025

After our relaxing stay in Cefalu, we headed to our next destination: Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples. Rather than navigate the inconvenience of the Sunday train schedule, we opted to splurge on a private driver to take us via Sicily’s interior. It was a pleasant ride and an opportunity to enjoy the island’s natural landscape. We arrived in Agrigento before noon, giving us time to check-in, grab a light lunch and head to the Valley of the Temples.

At first sight, the valley is vast and overwhelming. As we wondered where to begin, a woman approached us and asked if we were interested in an English-language tour. Elizabeth was an official guide and the fee was $20 euros each plus our entry fee. We agreed immediately and the three of us had Elizabeth to ourselves. She was informative and delightfully fun. The tour lasted almost three hours and the time flew, because she entertained us the entire time. In addition to ancient history, she shared mythological stories and tidbits of Sicilian culture. She taught us the meaning of several Sicilian gestures and shared her enthusiasm for Sicilian cuisine, especially “Pasta alla Norma.)

Ancient Walls (500 BC) -later used for Christian burials

Experienced in utilizing the stunning backdrops, Elizabeth took several photos of us. At the temple of Heracles, she produced props and insisted that we stage a wedding ceremony with Betty as the high priestess and Bill and me as the happy couple.

We enjoyed Elizabeth’s tour so much that we hired her to take us on a walking tour of Agrigento’s town center the next day. Most tourists only come for the temples, so a visit to town is a true local experience. We had coffee with city hall workers taking a quick break and were invited to pop into a matinee variety show at the Pirandello Theatre, because Elizabeth knew the director. Such personal touches really made our day.

Luigi Pirandello (1867-1936), a 1934 Nobel Prize winner was a native of Agrigento.

Ancient Agrigento was the third largest of the Greek city states, after Athens and Syracuse, with a population of 200,000. Today, the city of Agrigento has a population of 60,000. The contrast between the grandeur of the amazingly well-preserved temples and the humble backstreets of town is striking. The population has dwindled due to limited economic opportunities for the younger generation.

Agrigento has been named the Italian Cultural Capital of 2025. I recommend a visit. There are a few nice hotels in the city near the train station and some restaurants and pizzerias. There are also a number of small bed and breakfasts in the valley itself. Consider all of your options when planning a visit. More remote places have magical views, but less easy access to food.

We stayed for two nights at Panoramica dei Templi B and B. It is located about halfway between the city and the Valley of the Temples. The room was clean and comfortable and our terrace had a great view of the temples, especially at night. The staff was friendly. A good breakfast was included, although the breakfast room lacked ambience. The restaurant downstairs (Trattoria dei Templi) was closed during our stay. We walked to Terrazza degli Dei for fine dining with a great view of the temples.

From our lodging it was over a mile uphill walk to town and buses didn’t seem to run very often. The distance to the temples was over a mile as well and we chose to take a taxi to the park entrance, thus saving our time and energy for the sites. There is plenty of parking at the park for those who drive.

After our two night stay, we took the train to Palermo for five nights in Sicily’s capital. Look for my next post!

Thank you for reading. Geri

Cefalu: Sicilian Charm in the Off- Season

(February 12-16, 2025)

On the northeast coast of Sicily, an hour by car from Palermo, is scenic Cefalu. We traveled there by train from Taormina and stayed for four nights at the Sunset Hotel. The hotel had beautiful views of the sea and was an easy 10 minute walk into town. The waterfront path goes in two directions from there and we enjoyed long peaceful walks along the sea with stunning views in both directions. The weather was pleasant for strolling, while still a bit early for swimming. February is definitely not tourist season; some businesses are closed, but we enjoyed experiencing the local life of this former fishing village. Fishermen still supply the local restaurants, but the working harbor is now located further down the coast (the other side of the Rock.)

Scenes of Cefalu’s Sea Walk with the village at the foot of “La Rocca”

Sites to See in Cefalu

The Museo Madralisca is Cefalu’s only museum. It is housed in a former nobleman’s townhouse and has a funky collection of “stuff.” The house itself is worth a walk-through and the shell and coin collections are pretty amazing. The museum’s biggest claim to fame is the painting “Portrait of a Man ” by Antonello da Messina (1465).

Film buffs should take note that the 1990’s “Cinema Paradiso” was filmed in Cefalu and tells the story of a village boy turned filmmaker. The photos below show the house pictured in the film, now a bed and breakfast, and the fishing pier, where movies were projected on the brick wall in the movie’s final scene.

Below are more scenes of Cefalu’s fishing pier and the town.

The Cathedral

The two towers of Cefalu’s Cathedral (Duomo) are visible from a distance. The cathedral’s story is one of religion and politics. During the Norman occupation in the 12th century, King Roger II’s ship ran aground off Cefalu. He survived the wreck and vowed to have a church built in gratitude. The political part is that he wanted to move the capital of Sicily to Cefalu in order to lessen the power of Palermo. He died before he could accomplish the move or see the completion of the cathedral almost 100 years later. The story explains why a small fishing village can boast such a remarkable structure. Both Byzantine and Arabic influences can be observed, but much of the interior remains simple and unfinished. The stained glass windows were completed in 2013 and they created some controversy due to their contemporary look. I personally enjoyed the history and eclectic nature of the Cathedral. The Piazza del Duomo in front of the cathedral is a delightful place to enjoy coffee and snacks in the sunshine.

Cefalu’s sites can be seen in a day or two. If it’s good beach weather you may want to stay longer. The beach is long and the sand is clean and golden. The beach scenes in Season 2 of “The White Lotus” were filmed here. We enjoyed a cocktail in the sunshine at one of the seaside bars.

We stayed in Cefalu for four nights and enjoyed long slow walks along the water and through town. Leisurely coffee breaks, long lunches, siestas, and card games in the evenings enhanced our enjoyment of small town Sicily in the off-season. The local people were cheerful and welcoming and the food and wine were beyond good. We had wonderful meals at 22 Cucina Isolana, Trattoria Mandralisca, and Cortile Pepe in the city center.

Bastione Marchiafava (Terrace of a Medieval Fortress

**My First Aperol Spritz (Where have you been all my life?**

**La Rocca** ( There Is a Path to the Top)

Being in Cefalu in February gave us the opportunity to experience the local life without many other tourists. We exchanged greetings with residents on our walks along the sea. Shopkeepers were happy to chat whether we were buying or not. Getting a table for lunch or dinner was never a problem and the chefs proudly cooked for us. Fresh pasta really does taste better!

I imagine this place a lot livelier in the summer, but if you want a slow paced Sicilian experience, I recommend Cefalu in late February.

After our relaxing stay in Cefalu, we were off to Agrigento on the southern coast to experience the Valley of the Temples. We traveled on a Sunday and the train schedule was limited, so we splurged by hiring a driver to take us there. The ride through the Sicilian countryside was beautiful. We arrived in Agrigento around 11:00 am which gave us time to check into our lodging, get lunch and tour the Greek temples in the afternoon. Watch for my next article about Agrigento.

Thank you for reading and happy travels. Ciao.

Geri

Exploring Taormina: Stunning Views and Culinary Delights

February 8-12, 2025

If I had to sum up Taormina in one word it would be “Views.” If I could add a second word it would be “Food.” From the ancient Greeks to the Gilded Age to Season 2 of “The White Lotus,” Taormina has been a destination for those seeking relaxation and inspiration.

We reserved four nights at an AirB&B apartment in the historic center. We taxied from the train station and Roberto met us at the front door. Check-in was a bit rushed, since he was illegally parked on the pedestrian street. He neglected to show us how to turn on the hot water; fortunately Bill figured it out.

The apartment was in the style of a row house with five vertical levels, so there were a lot of steep stairs. Each bedroom and bath was on a different level. The third floor was the kitchen/dining and laundry rooms. Level five was the living room with a spiral staircase to the rooftop. We had an amazing view of the street below, the rooftops of the city center and Mt. Etna in the distance. For most of our stay, Etna was fogged in, but on our last day it revealed itself. Betty looked out the window and exclaimed, “Look at that snow covered mountain!” The day we left town it began erupting.

We were in a prime location for walking to the main drag (Corso Humberto I). We were steps from good restaurants and a small general store for breakfast items, snacks, bottled water and wine. The shop owner was a delight as he cheerfully sliced prosciutto and cheeses. When we showed up on a rainy Sunday morning, he met us at the door, told us he was closed, but opened up to sell us three umbrellas at 5 euro apiece.

A Sunday Jaunt to Castlemola

With our new umbrellas in hand we strolled through town to the nearby taxi stand. After a brief negotiation with the driver we were headed up Mt Tauro to the hilltop town of Castlemola. The views were stunning and we were happy not to be driving. Our driver spoke English fairly well and he pointed out sites along the way. He parked near the church square in Castlemola and waited for our return. ” Take your time, it won’t take long.”

Castlemola is tiny and charming. In summer season it gets overrun by tourists. On a rainy day in February we had it to ourselves. We walked up the path to the ruins of the Norman castle, popped into the church for a few minutes, and looped through town. On a sunny day it would be pleasant to dine outdoors at one of their quaint cafés. It was not a sunny day.

On the way back down the mountain, we stopped at the shrine of Madonna de la Rocca, but it too was closed up for the season. Driving through Taormina on our return, our driver pointed out certain landmarks and explained their background stories. More than one grand hotel was once a private residence; none appeared to be open in the winter. Even the Four Seasons, of “White Lotus” fame is only open during Three Seasons. We learned that the beach scenes were actually shot in Céfalu.(Next on our itinerary)

The Pride of Taormina:The Ancient Theatre

The sun emerged the next day and we headed out to Taormina’s main attraction: Teatro Antico (The Ancient Theatre.) Flowers bloomed outside the ticket booth. Inside the Entrance Hall there is an exhibit with archeological finds and explanations of building stones, columns, etc. The audioguide tour was very informative and gave us a much better understanding of the structures and history of the theatre.

Then we stepped outside into the open-air theatre. The views of mountains and sea were breathtaking! Now I understood the enduring popularity of Taormina.

The ancient Greeks built the theatre on this spot in the 3rd century BC. The Romans renovated it for their entertainments in the 1st century AD. The theatre has been amazingly well-maintained throughout the centuries and continues to host performances during the summer.

We were able to experience the Ancient Theatre with very few other visitors, one of the unique privileges of off-season travel.

**Outside the Entrance to the Ancient Theatre**

Other Notable Spots

Apart from the Ancient Theatre, there are not many sites in Taormina, but strolling through town is very enjoyable. An easy stroll from Porta Catania to Porta Messina follows the medieval road, which today is Taormina’s commercial center. You will pass the Piazza IX de Aprile, the Clock Tower and the Cathedral.

The Public Gardens are definitely worth a visit. Once owned by Lady Florence Trevalyn, a Scottish noblewoman who donated the gardens to the city in 1922. Beautifully maintained paths meander through botanical gardens, a playground, and several storybook buildings called “The Follies.”

On another morning, we took a bus down to Mazzaro Beach. The beach is small and scenic, and rocky. There is not much action at the beach in the off-season. We didn’t even find an open coffee shop, so we caught the next bus back up the mountain to Taormina. In-season there there is a cable car that runs from town to the beach.

**The Clock Tower (Entrance to the Medieval Town**)

**Villa Comunale Gardens** (The Public Gardens)

Memorable Meals in Taormina

There are plenty of good dining options in Taormina. While some popular destinations were closed for the winter, there were enough choices to keep us happy. Some favorites during our four-day stay were Liola Ostería and Bar, Adduma, Bistro du Monde, and Ostería da Rita. All were chef-owned and operated and staffed with friendly servers. My personal favorite was Adduma, where the chefs came out to meet us after our meal.

Time to board the train to Cefalu

Thank you for reading. Look for my next post from Cefalu.

Ciao for now.

Geri

Transported Back to Ancient Greece Siracusa/Ortigia,Sicily (February 5-8)

After a pleasant hour-long train trip from Cataia to Siracusa, we taxied to our hotel in Ortigia. My pre-trip research had suggested staying in Ortigia, which is the small island connected to the large city of Siracusa by bridges. Ortigia was the original settlement of the ancient Greek city-state of Siracusa.

We stayed at Hotel Posta, a small and comfortable hotel in a charming neighborhood. Our room had a small balcony that looked out on the port. The hotel breakfast was good and the staff was friendly. There was a cozy sitting room in the lobby where we could order a glass of wine and play cards in the evening.

**View from our Room. Pedestrian Bridge to Syracuse.**

It was raining our first afternoon in town. We borrowed umbrellas from the hotel and walked around the corner to L’Ancora, a small local restaurant with fantastic seafood, risotto, and pasta. The vibe was lively and welcoming and we were the only tourists. After a leisurely lunch, we went back to the hotel for siestas and by early evening the rain had stopped and we walked into the historic city center. It was only a 10 minute walk to the Piazza del Duomo. (Cathedral Square)

On our way we passed the remains of the Temple of Apollo, a remarkably well-preserved Greek Doric temple (circa 580B.C.) Today, it is part of a contemporary neighborhood, where you can sit on a bench in the sun and listen to a street musician while observing the daily life of Ortigia’s residents. We experienced this juxtaposition of ancient history and modern times throughout our Sicilian travels.

Photos of the Ancient Greek Temple of Apollo:

The Cathedral of Siracusa (Duomo) embodies thousands of years of Sicilian history. In 480 B.C., the Greeks built a temple on this site to honor the goddess Athena. The remains of the original six columns can still be seen. In 535 A.D., the Byzantines converted the temple into a Christian Church. In 827 A.D., Muslims from North Africa invaded Sicily and the church was rebuilt into a mosque. The Normans conquered Sicily between 1060 and 1090 A.D. and the mosque was rebuilt into a fortified Christian church. In 1693, a large earthquake damaged the cathedral and it was restored in the Baroque style. Today, this eclectic building proudly displays artifacts from its long history.

Santa Lucia (283-303 AD) is the patron saint of Siracusa. Her story bears a resemblance to Santa Ágata of Catania. Like Ágata, Lucia dedicated her virginity to God and spurned the attentions of a prominent Roman. She was arrested, blinded and put to death for her refusal to comply. She is known as the patron saint of sight and is celebrated on her feast day December 13th.

On our second day in Siracusa/Ortigia (February 6), we taxied to the Archeological Park on mainland Siracusa. The park is huge and is divided into 2 sections: Greek and Roman. At the ticket office we inquired about guided tours, audioguides, maps, or information pamphlets. The ticket vendor shrugged apologetically and said, “No, we need to do better about that.”

So we set off to wander the Greek sites (5th Century BC) and then the Roman sites. (1st Century AD). There were very few visitors to the park with this being the off-season. It was a great day to be there with comfortable weather for walking and the opportunity to experience these wonders without crowds.

Throughout the park, there were huge sculptures integrated with the ancient ruins. Signage explained the sculptures, but nothing about the ancient ruins.

**Roman Ruins with M**odern Day Syracuse in Background

After a full morning at the Archeological Park, we caught a taxi to the Paolo Orsi Archeological Museum. The museum’s collection spans from the Neolithic Era through the Roman occupation. While impressive, the museum was a bit overwhelming after a morning at the ruins. We left before completing the exhibit. It was time to head back to Ortigia for food and relaxation.

The next day we walked the perimeter of Ortigia and enjoyed the beautiful views of sea and city. We visited the Castello Maniace, a beautifully intact fortification built by the Emperor Frederick II in the 13th century. After visiting the castle, we continued our stroll along the bay and stopped for cappuccini at one of the lovely waterfront cafés. When the waiters can’t stop smiling about the sunshine, you know you’re in the right place.

We finished our seaside stroll at Piazza Arethusa and cut back into the historic section. Our plan was to visit the Puppet Museum (Museo del Pupi). Puppet shows have been popular in Sicily for centuries (think Pinocchio). Sadly, there is no puppet theatre in the winter and the museum was also closed. We were able to pop into the store where the puppeteer still makes and sells the Sicilian puppets.

Ortigia Restaurants

We enjoyed wonderful meals throughout Sicily. In Ortigia, our most memorable meals were at L’Ancora, Sicily Pizzeria and Lounge Bar, Tavernetta Uno da Simone, and Casa Trimarche. We controlled our intake by always sharing dishes family style, which was plenty of food and usually allowed for a shared dessert to top it off. Meals in Sicily generally cost less than a comparable meal back in the States. Sicily only serves Sicilian wines and we found them to be good.

We loved our stay in Siracusa/Ortigia! Three nights was just right for us. Younger, more ambitious travelers would probably be fine with two nights.

Next Stop: Taormina.

My recommendations are solely based on my personal experiences. I am independent and unpaid. Thank you for reading!

We Experience Catania’s Traditions During The Feast of Saint Ágata (Catania, Sicily;February 2-5, 2025)

After our two week stay in Essuoaira, Morocco, we flew back to Madrid via Ryan Air. Bill’s sister Betty met us in Madrid and after two enjoyable days of art and Spanish cuisine, we were off to Sicily. (Ryan Air).

The first stop on our three-week Sicilian adventure was Catania on the west coast. We chose it as our starting point according to the flight schedule, as flights don’t run every day in the off-season. There is also an airport in Palermo, which we would visit last and depart from there.

By coincidence, we were in Catania for their biggest festival of the year: The Feast of Saint Ágata, virgin and martyr. Ágatha (Agatha) was born in Catania and died for her faith at the hands of the Romans in the third century AD. (February 5, 251) Her relics are housed in the chapel next to the Duomo (Cathedral) of Catania and every year from February 3rd through the 5th, they are paraded through the streets by throngs of participants; close to a million we were told, although that seemed a bit exaggerated.

On our first evening in Catania we saw groups of clergy arriving in town. The Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) was alive with musicians, balloon vendors, young ladies dressed in long white gowns and carrying red roses, and representatives of parish churches bearing their standards to pay homage to St. Ágata.

Fortuitously, we visited the inside of the cathedral that evening ;it was closed to visitors for the remaining days of the festival. Each time the relics of St. Ágata were removed from or returned to her chapel, loud fireworks shook the town. There were daily procession routes throughout Catania. A float bearing Ágata’s ornate silver reliquary and a large statue of her surrounded by flowers, candles, and a bishop was pulled through the streets by devotees wearing the traditional white garments and St. Agatha medals. Police officers managed the crowd to allow safe passage of the float and access to the thick ropes for those wishing to pull the heavy float for part of the route.

When we planned our trip, we didn’t realize we would be a part of this centuries old tradition, but we are so glad it worked out that way. It was really a special experience!

In addition to observing the festival activities, we enjoyed Catania’s other attractions. The fish market and fresh fruit and vegetable market are a colorful testament to Sicilian lifestyle and cuisine. The narrow streets of the historic center are lined with vendors of produce, meats, pastries, spices, juice, nuts, and street food. During the festival days, candy stands are everywhere and the smell of almond paste permeates the air. There were marzipan stands everywhere and we kept wondering what they do with it all when the party is over.

Every day, we took time out to sip cappuccini (cappuccinos) and sample Sicilian pastry at a table in the sun. Sicily is the birthplace of gelato and cannoli. Catania has its own seasonal delicacy: the breasts of St. Ágata, a pastry designed to remind us that as part of her torture her breasts were cut off.

We enjoyed art at Palazzo della Cultura and at Castello Ursino. Palazzo della Cultura is a restored palace with an eclectic collection of contemporary art displayed creatively in rooms decorated with antique furniture and tapestries. They had a temporary Frida Kahlo exhibit which featured a few of her works and a sizable collection of black and white photos from her life.

The Castello Ursino was the town’s fortified castle and now serves as the Civic Museum of Catania. It is a huge space for housing art and artifacts from Catania’s long history and is a working museum for archeologists and art restorers. After our visit, we had coffee and the most memorable pistachio arancini (rice balls) of our trip.

Some travelers dismiss Catania as dirty and lacking charm. True, the street stones are black and the buildings are blackened, but that isn’t exactly dirt; it’s volcanic rock and lava stains from nearby Mt. Etna. I’ll concede that the back streets of the historic center are rather run down with cracked paving stones, graffitied walls and a slightly gritty vibe. My mother would have described it as “having seen better days.” To me, these features add to Catania’s charm. A few streets away is the beautiful Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) and the upscale shopping and dining district. The city has expanded far beyond its original walls and is a modern vibrant city.

Some More Catania Scenes and Night Views: (Remember to double click for a larger view)

Below are some photos of Catania’s Cuisine. We never had a bad meal. From street food to rooftop dining, food is an art form in Sicily. Fresh locally grown ingredients are used in traditional recipes and creative dishes. We especially enjoyed Sunday afternoon dinner at Sicilia in Bocca, where we were the only tourists in a dining room filled with local families. I recommend sharing dishes as portions are quite generous!

While in Catania, we stayed at Hotel Centrum. It is a comfortable 3 star hotel with an excellent buffet breakfast included. The location was great, a ten-minute walk to Piazza del Duomo. Paola at the front desk was very helpful with maps, directions, and suggestions.

Next Stop: Siracusa/Ortigia.

Note: My suggestions are based solely on my own experiences. I am independent and unpaid.

Essaouira, Morocco (January 17-31, 2025)

We left blustery Chicago on January 14th on an overnight flight to Madrid (American/ Iberia). After two recovery days in Madrid, we flew Ryan Air to Essaouira. After boarding, we were delayed two hours due to mechanical problems. They found us a working plane, and after deplaning and re-boarding from the tarmac, we arrived without incident.

The weather has been mild and sunny with daytime temperatures in the high 60’s and evening temperatures in the 50’s (Fahrenheit). We are staying at Hotel Palazzo in the Medina (walled city). The location is perfect for walking in the Medina and outside of it on the seaside. (Atlantic Ocean). The hotel’s claim to fame is that Orson Wells stayed here while filming Othello. The staff members speak English and French in addition to Arabic, Spanish and other European languages. They are very friendly and helpful; Fatima has booked reservations for us and suggested various activities, as well as recommending a local guide for walking tours and excursions.

Essaouira is small compared to Marrakech and Fez. The Medina is easy to navigate on our own and the vibe in town is chill and friendly. Small compared to Marrakech and Fez, Essaouira was once a thriving trade center, but because the harbor doesn’t accommodate huge vessels, the local economy is now limited to fishing and tourism. We are here for two weeks. The sites could easily be seen in a day or two; indeed many people come on day trips from Marrakech. Europeans come for long weekends to enjoy the sunbathing, surfing, shopping, and fabulous Moroccan cuisine. So far, we have only met two other Americans. We have enjoyed settling in and we have not been bored. We spend our days strolling the beach and the Medina, watching the kite surfers, wading in the Atlantic, taking photos, shopping a bit in the souks (shops) and cooperatives, stopping for a coffee or mint tea, and making discoveries around every corner.

Although Essaouira is very safe to explore on our own, we hired Achmed, a local guide to take us on a two-hour walk through the Medina. He speaks excellent English and taught us a lot about the history of Essaouira. We went to the House of Memory, (Bayt Dakira) which is a restored synagogue and museum dedicated to the history of peaceful coexistence between Muslims and Jews in Morocco. Sephardic Jews were welcomed to Morocco after the expulsion of all non-Christians from Spain in 1492. In the 18th century, Essaouira was the only town in Morocco with a majority Jewish population. Most of the Jewish population left Morocco after the formation of the State of Israel in 1948, due to Arab-Israeli conflicts. Achmed walked us through the remains of the former Jewish quarter and the Muslim quarter. He pointed out the various symbols above the doorway and on door knockers which would have indicated a Jewish (Star of David), Muslim (Crescent Moon) or Christian (Seashell) home.

PHOTOS BELOW FROM THE “HOUSE OF MEMORY”

PHOTOS BELOW OF DOORS IN THE MEDINA

Food is an art form in Morocco. Fresh ingredients and spices combine to form delicious dishes. The aroma of baking bread permeates the air. From the simplest cafe to an elegant restaurant you will enjoy quality cuisine at reasonable prices. We took a cooking class at l’Atelier and learned to make fish tagine. We have returned to their charming coffee shop several times.

On a Sunday morning, Achmed took us to the regional Sunday market. We enjoyed driving out into the countryside and seeing some of rural Morocco. The terrain is similar to that of the Arizona desert, with olive trees. Parcels of land are separated with low stone walls. Some areas have irrigated fields and greenhouses. Small herds of sheep can be seen from the road and donkeys line the highway. The donkeys are important pack animals and every rural family needs one.

The market was busy and crowded. There was a large livestock area where cows, sheep, goats, and donkeys were being sold. There were sections of spices, clothing, rope, tires, household goods, handicrafts, tools, etc.

After the chaos of the market, we enjoyed a peaceful walk in the country, followed by a stop at the Cooperative for Argan Oil, where we were shown the women at work and a hostess explained the process. We bought a few items in the shop. Unfortunately, we have to be aware of getting our purchases home.

Before returning to Essaouira, we ate lunch with our Achmed, our driver Abdul, and the woman who runs the roadside restaurant. Achmed had called ahead to order chicken tagine, which was served family style with delicious bread and followed by mint tea. Our day was a memorable experience!

Our time in Essaouira is drawing to a close. Despite the slow pace of life here, the time has passed very quickly. The people have been wonderfully welcoming, the weather perfect, the food amazing, the scenery stunning, and the shopping tempting. Yes, this place grows on you. Until next time….

Practical Matters:

Moroccan Currency is the Dirham (MAD)- currently 10 MAD is 1 USD (100 dirhams is ten dollars)
Accommodations are varied: the Medina has many restored buildings that are now small hotels, Riads (a former home with an interior garden), Dars ( a former home without the garden). Many of these are beautiful, historic, and charming. You can expect a clean, comfortable room and wonderful service. Do not expect modern amenities like elevators and fitness rooms. Many places have a spa, where you can access services like massage, facials, etc. We enjoyed massages for half the cost of a massage back home. If you want a more modern hotel experience, there are a number of large hotels just outside of the Medina with beach views. A few have swimming pools; unless stated the water will not be heated. Some hotels offer day passes to their facilities. We spent two lovely days at Villa Beldi. For 300 MAD, we enjoyed an afternoon at their heated pool and gorgeous gardens.It was a 30 MAD taxi ride to get out there. We had lunch in the garden. The food was excellent and the bill far less than a comparable meal in the States.
Morocco is not a drinking culture. That said, cocktails and wine are available in the places that cater to tourists: hotel bars and fine-dining restaurants.

Note: My references to businesses are based on our own experiences; I am independent and unpaid. Thank you for reading! Happy travels. Geri

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