Morocco – Adventures In The South of Spain

Essaouira, Morocco (January 17-31, 2025)

We left blustery Chicago on January 14th on an overnight flight to Madrid (American/ Iberia). After two recovery days in Madrid, we flew Ryan Air to Essaouira. After boarding, we were delayed two hours due to mechanical problems. They found us a working plane, and after deplaning and re-boarding from the tarmac, we arrived without incident.

The weather has been mild and sunny with daytime temperatures in the high 60’s and evening temperatures in the 50’s (Fahrenheit). We are staying at Hotel Palazzo in the Medina (walled city). The location is perfect for walking in the Medina and outside of it on the seaside. (Atlantic Ocean). The hotel’s claim to fame is that Orson Wells stayed here while filming Othello. The staff members speak English and French in addition to Arabic, Spanish and other European languages. They are very friendly and helpful; Fatima has booked reservations for us and suggested various activities, as well as recommending a local guide for walking tours and excursions.

Essaouira is small compared to Marrakech and Fez. The Medina is easy to navigate on our own and the vibe in town is chill and friendly. Small compared to Marrakech and Fez, Essaouira was once a thriving trade center, but because the harbor doesn’t accommodate huge vessels, the local economy is now limited to fishing and tourism. We are here for two weeks. The sites could easily be seen in a day or two; indeed many people come on day trips from Marrakech. Europeans come for long weekends to enjoy the sunbathing, surfing, shopping, and fabulous Moroccan cuisine. So far, we have only met two other Americans. We have enjoyed settling in and we have not been bored. We spend our days strolling the beach and the Medina, watching the kite surfers, wading in the Atlantic, taking photos, shopping a bit in the souks (shops) and cooperatives, stopping for a coffee or mint tea, and making discoveries around every corner.

Although Essaouira is very safe to explore on our own, we hired Achmed, a local guide to take us on a two-hour walk through the Medina. He speaks excellent English and taught us a lot about the history of Essaouira. We went to the House of Memory, (Bayt Dakira) which is a restored synagogue and museum dedicated to the history of peaceful coexistence between Muslims and Jews in Morocco. Sephardic Jews were welcomed to Morocco after the expulsion of all non-Christians from Spain in 1492. In the 18th century, Essaouira was the only town in Morocco with a majority Jewish population. Most of the Jewish population left Morocco after the formation of the State of Israel in 1948, due to Arab-Israeli conflicts. Achmed walked us through the remains of the former Jewish quarter and the Muslim quarter. He pointed out the various symbols above the doorway and on door knockers which would have indicated a Jewish (Star of David), Muslim (Crescent Moon) or Christian (Seashell) home.

PHOTOS BELOW FROM THE “HOUSE OF MEMORY”

PHOTOS BELOW OF DOORS IN THE MEDINA

Food is an art form in Morocco. Fresh ingredients and spices combine to form delicious dishes. The aroma of baking bread permeates the air. From the simplest cafe to an elegant restaurant you will enjoy quality cuisine at reasonable prices. We took a cooking class at l’Atelier and learned to make fish tagine. We have returned to their charming coffee shop several times.

On a Sunday morning, Achmed took us to the regional Sunday market. We enjoyed driving out into the countryside and seeing some of rural Morocco. The terrain is similar to that of the Arizona desert, with olive trees. Parcels of land are separated with low stone walls. Some areas have irrigated fields and greenhouses. Small herds of sheep can be seen from the road and donkeys line the highway. The donkeys are important pack animals and every rural family needs one.

The market was busy and crowded. There was a large livestock area where cows, sheep, goats, and donkeys were being sold. There were sections of spices, clothing, rope, tires, household goods, handicrafts, tools, etc.

After the chaos of the market, we enjoyed a peaceful walk in the country, followed by a stop at the Cooperative for Argan Oil, where we were shown the women at work and a hostess explained the process. We bought a few items in the shop. Unfortunately, we have to be aware of getting our purchases home.

Before returning to Essaouira, we ate lunch with our Achmed, our driver Abdul, and the woman who runs the roadside restaurant. Achmed had called ahead to order chicken tagine, which was served family style with delicious bread and followed by mint tea. Our day was a memorable experience!

Our time in Essaouira is drawing to a close. Despite the slow pace of life here, the time has passed very quickly. The people have been wonderfully welcoming, the weather perfect, the food amazing, the scenery stunning, and the shopping tempting. Yes, this place grows on you. Until next time….

Practical Matters:

Moroccan Currency is the Dirham (MAD)- currently 10 MAD is 1 USD (100 dirhams is ten dollars)
Accommodations are varied: the Medina has many restored buildings that are now small hotels, Riads (a former home with an interior garden), Dars ( a former home without the garden). Many of these are beautiful, historic, and charming. You can expect a clean, comfortable room and wonderful service. Do not expect modern amenities like elevators and fitness rooms. Many places have a spa, where you can access services like massage, facials, etc. We enjoyed massages for half the cost of a massage back home. If you want a more modern hotel experience, there are a number of large hotels just outside of the Medina with beach views. A few have swimming pools; unless stated the water will not be heated. Some hotels offer day passes to their facilities. We spent two lovely days at Villa Beldi. For 300 MAD, we enjoyed an afternoon at their heated pool and gorgeous gardens.It was a 30 MAD taxi ride to get out there. We had lunch in the garden. The food was excellent and the bill far less than a comparable meal in the States.
Morocco is not a drinking culture. That said, cocktails and wine are available in the places that cater to tourists: hotel bars and fine-dining restaurants.

Note: My references to businesses are based on our own experiences; I am independent and unpaid. Thank you for reading! Happy travels. Geri

Next Adventure: Sicily

Ballooning Over the Desert

(February 2023)

I have always wanted to go up in a hot-air balloon. This seems strange for the kid who made them stop the Ferris Wheel at Kiddie Land, because she was too frightened to go through with it. I have evolved, but only to a point. I did ride The Navy Pier Ferris Wheel with the grandkids last summer. However, I still don’t ride rollercoasters, skydive, or get too close to the window in a skyscraper. You’ll never find me on the glass floor skydeck at The Willis Tower. But balloons, yeah, there’s just something about balloons. And maybe something about being far from home in a foreign country that brings out my reckless streak. I have snorkeled in Mexico, walked over a gorge in Spain on a suspension bridge, and climbed countless narrow bell towers while traveling.

Viator Tours has a Hot-Air Adventure Tour from Marrakesh, which includes a traditional Berber breakfast and a camel ride. After a trip to Bryce Canyon in 2019, Bill announced, ” No more horses, no more mules.” So I had to ask, ” How do you feel about camels?”

Meeting our tour meant an early alarm and departing in the dark. Once again, Aman escorted us to the parking lot and talked to the driver. We were a group of eight in the van. There was some confusion on our part as to whether we were with the right tour. Attendance taking was pretty lax and we were never asked to show our ticket. But it seemed we were all headed for a balloon ride, so that was good enough. The drive there was actually scarier than the balloon ride. Our driver was going very fast on the highway and when we went off -road, things got pretty bumpy. We arrived at the compound in the dark. There was a huge tent, bathrooms, hot coffee, tea and croissants to enjoy while we watched the crew prepare the balloons. There were three huge balloons in our compound. Later, we would realize that this was one of many balloon launching sites in the area.

At first light, they began filling the balloons one at a time. They lay on their sides; once filled, the crew rights the gondolas. Once they were prepared, we were signaled to line up to get in a gondola. Twenty people fit in each gondola. You have to climb over the side to get in and it is no small feat, because the gondola walls are pretty high.

(Double click on photos for larger view)

When our gondola was filled and our weight properly distributed, the captain fired up the “engine”, the crew cut the ropes, and we began to rise. It is a gentle rise and so quiet that it wasn’t scary at all. The sensation of floating 1500 meters above the Moroccan dessert is amazing! The sky was filled with balloons as the sun rose over the Atlas mountains. There was some friendly conversation and photo taking in the gondola; but there were also long minutes of silence as we all contemplated the beauty of the experience. We floated peacefully for a good hour.

Gradually, we began our descent. We floated over abandoned compounds, small villages, and luxury villas. We could see a caravan of balloon crews following our path. The captain announced, “When we get closer to landing, we will all face one direction, bend our knees and hold on with both hands.” Only then did I consider that the biggest challenge lay ahead: a safe landing. Our captain then told us to take our landing posture and without delay, he “stuck” the landing. The crew ran over and held down the gondola, and began removing passengers a few at a time. Bill and I were among the first. Once on the ground, I looked up and noticed that the balloon was rising again, taking the crew members with it. They were hanging on to the outside as it went air born. I have to say, I was relieved to be out of the gondola. It didn’t take long for it to land again, this time for good, and everyone exited safely.

Now, it was time for breakfast. Moroccan breakfast is a carbohydrate heavy feast. There are always at least two kinds of bread and two kinds of pancakes, along with donuts, coffee and tea. Usually, an egg is offered, and often fresh fruit.

After breakfast, we were headed to the camel compound. Bill had not yet decided if he was riding. When we got there, one group was departing and another arriving. Things looked pretty tame. The camels were tethered together and they get down low to the ground for people to mount and dismount. Truthfully, that didn’t look very comfortable for the camel. The guide assured me that the animals are well-treated and only work mornings. The next thing I knew, Bill was aboard the lead camel! The ride was only about twenty minutes, which was probably just enough. To dismount, you have to lean back, way back. There is a brief moment that feels like you might get thrown, and then the camel is down and you climb off.

After our camel ride, we had an uneventful ride home. Another bucket list item accomplished!

NEXT: Join me as we take a train to Fez.

“Don’t You Know We’re Riding On The Marrakech Express”

Marrakech to Fez (February 14, 2023)

The Marrakech Express made famous in the song by Crosby, Stills, and Nash is an overnight train from Tangier to Marrakech and is still in operation to this day. We took a six-hour day train from Marrakech to Fez. The compartment accommodated six passengers facing each other with luggage racks above. We paid extra for first class, so the seats were pretty comfy, but there was not much else in the way of amenities. A kid with a snack cart came by a couple of times. The scenery was very pleasant; much of it agricultural. As we got closer to Fez, there were rolling green hills that reminded us of Wisconsin. In fact, there were dairy cows, along with sheep, horses, and donkeys.

Our compartment mates were a young Egyptian couple and a young Moroccan man. All of them spoke English, were highly educated and well-traveled. The Egyptian couple had a lot of luggage. The woman was planning on doing a lot of shopping; specifically, in leather goods.

Mohammed, the Moroccan, told us he works for the Cultural Bureau and had been in Casablanca for work. He was an amiable conversationalist, and at one point asked us if we had a tour guide arranged for our stay in Fez. We said we were reviewing our options.

He suggested that we meet his colleague Adam, born in Fez and later adopted by an Australian couple. Adam was in town from Australia for another day. If we were interested in meeting him, Mohammed would call him. No charge for Adam’s tour; we could make a voluntary donation to his Widows’ Charity.

At this point in the story, I should probably pause to explain my reaction to helpful strangers versus the reaction of my husband Bill. I tend to see the positive side of human nature and Bill tends to think that everyone is out to get him. For those of you who know us well, you can pretty much figure out our reaction to this situation. I’m ready to go all in for Adam’s tour and Bill is saying, ” Wait a minute, what’s happening?”

Next thing you know, Mohammed calls Adam, and Adam is available for the next day. Mohammed tells us where the culture office is in relation to the train station. The train arrives in Fez, we all say our goodbyes and get off. At this point, I am thinking we might just disappear into the crowd and book a tour on Viator later.

Just as I was thinking we had dodged a bullet, a smiling young man approached us on the platform. Yes, it was Adam. Let’s face it, we don’t exactly blend into the crowd. Adam seemed trustworthy enough and we arranged our tour for the next day. He would come by taxi to our hotel at 9:30 am.

We took a taxi to Palaj Faraj for our stay in Fez. The hotel is just outside the Medina and is lovely. We enjoyed dinner in their dining room and a “mocktail” in the bar. Apparently, the hotel has recently changed ownership and the liquor license is in limbo. Disappointing, but not tragic. Our room was luxurious, and breakfast the next morning was fantastic.

Adam arrived promptly at 9:30, and we were off to the Medina. The Fez Medina (old city) is the largest in Morocco and, reportedly, the one in which you are most likely to get hopelessly lost. There are over 1,000 unmarked streets. Adam was an excellent guide. He knows the Medina and seemingly everyone in it. He showed us where he lived as a child: a one room space in one of the many narrow alleyways. He is from a family of seven children. His parents divorced; leaving his mother in abject poverty. As a teenager, he went to work in a tourist hotel. It was there that he met the Australian couple, who offered to sponsor him. He moved to Australia to live with his adoptive parents and get his education. He is now a successful businessman who exports Moroccan goods to Australia and the USA. He bought his mother a nice home in the new city and his sisters are both doctors. He feels compelled to give back to his people by volunteering his time and support to a widows’ charity.

We strolled through a section of the Medina that is being restored by UNESCO. The Fez Medina is over 1,000 years old. The restoration work is painstaking and expensive, but the result is breathtaking. The tile and woodwork honor the history of the artisans who continue the ancient handicrafts today.

Within any Moroccan Medina are numerous small neighborhoods, each with five important features: a mosque, a school, a hammam (public bath), a bakery, and a fountain.

We visited the former School of the Koran, which is now a museum. The architecture is stunning. The student rooms are small; three or four students shared each of them. The better rooms, those with a view of the courtyard and more light, were given to the higher achieving students. This museum and others give non-Muslims an opportunity to see the interiors of historic sites that would otherwise be off-limits. Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter active places of worship.

We walked along the river, which ironically, separates the Spanish section of town from the Muslim. Andalusian culture existed for centuries in both Morocco and Spain, due to the Moorish occupation of Spain (711-1492). Having studied and experienced the Moorish influence in the south of Spain, it has been really interesting to come to the source. During and after The Reconquest, there was a huge wave of immigration from Spain to northern Morocco by Jews and Muslims, fleeing persecution by the Catholic Kings.

Next, we were off to visit some of the Cooperatives. Adam explained that Fez differs from Marrakech in that, rather than souks, it has Co-ops. I am not sure this distinction would be obvious to us. While there may have been less density of shops in Fez, there were definitely shops. The Co-ops are overseen by the government of Morocco. I was hoping this would mean set prices and no haggling or hard-sell, but no such luck. Our first stop was a Widows’ Carpet Cooperative, First we met Aziz, who took us to the rooftop for sweeping views of Fez. He is a teacher who volunteers at the Co-op. He was delighted to meet American teachers, and we enjoyed asking him questions and taking selfies. Aziz took me to meet the women, and see their home and work space. Bill was taken to the showroom for tea. The woman and their children are given shelter from the streets, although the living space is quite modest. While the children are in school, their mothers learn to make carpets by hand. I was told that a single carpet takes up to two years for completion.

Meanwhile, back in the showroom, Adam and Bill were sipping tea, while a team of men unrolled carpets for us to view. The show was orchestrated by one gentleman, whom I will refer to as the “used car salesman”. Each carpet was unique. I made the requisite comments about their beauty, while Bill sat with his arms folded, and repeated continuously, “We aren’t here to buy a carpet, but I’ll be happy to make a donation to the widows.” “No, we don’t accept donations here, only purchases. Now, what size carpet can you use?” The prices started at $4,000 Euros for a very large rug, which wouldn’t likely do much for our minimalist decor even if we could afford it. The used car salesman told us these carpets were an investment. We could purchase it and resell it in the States, making enough profit to pay for our trip. Bill told them he was not buying a rug and he certainly wasn’t going into the rug selling business. Each time we protested, smaller rugs appeared and the prices got lower. By the time we were exiting (without a rug), the used car salesman was trying to hand me a very small rug and shouting, “Please take it, it’s a gift!”

After our escape from the Carpet Co-op, it was on to the tanneries and leather goods shops. Leather was a product in which I had a bit more interest. The sales approach was gentler than the carpets. Again, the asking price is outrageous, negotiations occur, and a settlement is reached. Even Adam bought a jacket, although I’m pretty sure his price was lower than ours. He did help us to negotiate, and in the end, I had two leather handbags, and each of us had a new camel leather coat. We’re pretty sure we overpaid, but not enough to break the bank.

Time for a lunch break! We went to a small family run restaurant, where we were invited into the kitchen to taste the day’s specials before ordering. As soon as we were settled, who walked in and sat next to us, but the used car salesman. Coincidence? You decide. He made one more pitch for us to stop by and get his card for our friends back home.

After lunch, we had one more Co-op on our agenda: the pottery artisans. While I was at the point of skipping this one; I’m glad we didn’t. These artisans were amazing! I thought of my ceramic artist friends at home and how much they would enjoy seeing this. The painstaking tile work is done with hand tools. The products are beautiful! Bill was picturing one of those fountains on his deck back home, but it will probably come from Amazon and be made in China.

And so ended our tour! Bill handed Adam a cash donation for his Widows’ charity. Some of you are shaking your heads now at our stupidity. I would like to believe it got to those in need and Bill says it’s in karma’s hands now.

At the end of the day, it felt a bit like we were in a Hollywood movie complete with exotic stage settings, a cast of characters, (with us as the naive tourists), a few twists of fate, and an ambiguous ending. Kind of like “Now You See Me” Was the whole thing a set-up from start to finish? Maybe. Maybe not. But even if it was, no real harm was done. We saw beautiful places, met interesting people, and took memorable photos. I have enough material to write a screenplay. And I’m rockin’ that leather coat!

There is an Epilogue to the leather coats, but that’s a tale to tell over a glass of wine.

NEXT: Chefchaouen: the Blue City

Terror In A Tuk-Tuk

By now we were feeling pretty comfortable in Marrakech. We wanted to go out for a nice Saturday night dinner, perhaps with entertainment.

Sana suggested La Tanjia in Place des Ferblantiers, the main square in the Jewish quarter. She also suggested we go by Tuk-Tuk, since it was over a half an hour walk each way. That seemed like a good idea. Aman from the Riad walked us down to meet the driver and explain where we were going and that he should return to pick us up after dinner. The restaurant hostess would call him when we were ready. We climbed into the back of the Tuk-Tuk and greeted our driver. A moment later, we were careening through the Medina, tires bouncing, horn beeping, narrowly missing people and banging into the door of a souk. Dirty looks were directed our way. Our driver was shouting in Arabic the whole time, as we held on for dear life. It was like a carnival ride; frightening and fun at the same time. We arrived at La Tangia and my heart rate returned to normal.

Dinner was delicious and the view was spectacular. Toward the end of our meal, the entertainment began. Joyful Moroccan music, belly dancers with candles on their head, a wildly illuminated dancer who swung a large neon umbrella over the tables. Patron participation was encouraged. After dessert, it was time for our return ride in the Tuk-Tuk. Our driver asked if we could pick up another couple nearby. Sure, why not? We went out of the Medina onto a modern boulevard, and then parked in front of a hotel. The driver was talking to us in some mixture of Arabic and French with a little English in the mix. He raved about what a grand hotel this was, a really grand hotel. “The president stays here when he comes to Marrakech.” he bragged, so I asked, ” Is the president going to ride in the Tuk-Tuk with us?” He understood me enough to think that was uproariously funny. He must have been referring to the French president, because Morocco has a king.

A fashionable French couple approached the vehicle and we welcomed them to the back seat. The woman was upbeat, but we sensed that her husband was pretty horrified to be riding in the back of a Tuk-Tuk with AMERICANS. We learned that they were from Marseilles. The wife had been in town for three days for an art exhibition and her husband was joining her for the weekend. He probably had visions of a luxury evening at the grand hotel, but she was dragging him out to visit friends who were renting a place in the Medina.

We drove into the Medina and turned down a narrow street. Another vehicle had parked to unload crates, and was blocking our progress. I’m not sure of the protocol here. There are no one-way streets, stop signs, or no parking signs. If two vehicles come face to face, someone has to back up. Our driver had no intention of being that someone. He aggressively drove toward the other vehicle, yelling the whole time. A couple of guys came to his window to discuss the situation. In moments, we were surrounded by angry men. I began to imagine an international incident. The French couple seemed quite amused by it all, and actually applauded when the other vehicle backed up for our Tuk-Tuk. And just like that, the crisis was averted and we were home a few minutes later. I can’t help but wonder if some of the posturing is theatrics to entertain the tourists.

Tuk-Tuk Video

We survived the Tuk-Tuk! Next: The Hot Air Balloon.

The Blue City- Chefchaouen

February 18-20, 2023

We hired a private driver to take us from Fez to Chefchaouen. The price was reasonable enough to make it an attractive alternative to the bus. The road was a narrow (almost) two lane highway. The car would often have to skirt around donkeys and sheep, and when another vehicle would decide to pass us, things got a little scary. Our driver was friendly and pleasant. We stopped for lunch at a “roadside resort”.

(Double click on photos for larger view)

Chefchaouen is known as Morocco’s Blue City, and from the photos you can see why. The reason for the blue is less clear. The village was built in the 1400’s and turned blue in the 1900’s. Theories abound; the favorite being that Jewish immigrants who migrated there at the start of World War II painted their homes blue to represent the sky. Chefchaouen is a charming small city nestled in the Rif Mountains. It is an attraction for hikers, photographers, and artists. Rumor has it that some visitors come for the cannabis grown in the surrounding region. Bill was approached by a local resident about making a purchase, but he declined. Moroccan law has legalized cultivation, but not recreational use. Buyer beware.

We stayed two nights at Dar Aldea, a bed and breakfast. Our daughter Christine had stayed there in 2019. The couple who run it, Ahmad and Assami, took good care of her, and she recommended it to us. On the day we arrived, Ahmad took us for a long walk around town and joined us for dinner at a local restaurant. When I told him I wanted to take photos in the morning light, he volunteered to take us up the hill to the Spanish Mosque the next morning for the sunrise. The fog was so thick in the morning that we couldn’t see much of anything. But as promised, the mist lifted. The sun really didn’t make much of an appearance, but the views were great anyway.

Chefchaouen’s big square Outa El Hammam is next to the Kasbah (fortress) and the city walls. We enjoyed a visit to the the 15th century structure and its museum and gardens. Once again, I was reminded of the shared Andalusian culture of Southern Spain and Northern Morocco. During the reign of the Catholic Kings and the Inquisition in Spain in the 1500’s, there was a large migration of Spanish Jews and Muslims to Morocco. The Sephardic Jews continued to speak 15th century “old” Spanish for several more centuries. From the 1920’s until 1956, the Spanish occupied Chefchaouen, and Spanish is widely spoken there today.

Outa El Hammam is also the location of Chefchaoun’s main mosque. Non-Muslims may not go inside. The main square is bordered by shops and small restaurants. This is also where for 10 dirhams, you can hold a parrot, or jam to some native music. The vibe here is much more laid back than in Marrakech or Fez.( Perhaps due to the cannabis) The vendors are low key and souvenir prices are considerably cheaper.

By staying in a private home, we were a witness to family life. We met Ahmad and Assami’s son and daughter and were able to converse with them about school and sports. Of course, they speak excellent English. Assami cooked us a wonderful breakfast each morning and we ate in the family’s living room. They arranged a ride to the ferry out of Tangier-Med on the day we left.

Tangier-Med is a very large and relatively new port and terminal. We were able to purchase our tickets to Algeciras and exchange our leftover Moroccan currency at the same counter. We boarded the ferry for the one and a half hour crossing. Unfortunately, departure was delayed by three hours. Fortunately, food was available and I had a good book. We were able to get a bus back to Málaga from Algeciras; arriving home to Málaga much later than expected, but happy to be there.

https://videopress.com/v/fiszhpdo?resizeToParent=1&cover=1&autoPlay=0&controls=1&loop=0&muted=0&persistVolume=1&playsinline=0&preloadContent=metadata&sbc&sbpc&sblc&useAverageColor=1

Early Morning In The Marrakech Medina

A Private Photography Walk with Omar (February 11, 2023)

We found Omar’s tour on Air B&B Experiences. He is a local Photographer who offers two types of private experiences: You as the Photographer or You As the Model. Apparently, he makes a decent living doing photoshoots of Instagramers in the exotic settings of Marrakech. I think you can guess which tour we chose.

We were scheduled for 8:00 AM, so our Riad served us breakfast early (of course they did). Omar arrived before first light and off we went. Omar explained Street Photography etiquette in Morocco. I had been hesitant about it, not wanting to go against the cultural norms. Omar said it is fine to photograph the architecture, and if people happen to enter your frame, that’s fine too. A quick, unobtrusive shot of someone is fine; just don’t be sticking a camera in their face while you adjust your settings. The artisans and Medina workers we would be meeting have a relationship with Omar; he has paid them for welcoming us to their space.

Early morning is quiet in the Medina. Walking is much more tranquil than later in the day. The souk keepers are slowly setting up shop and drinking their morning tea. The morning light is soft.

**This is Omar (He grew up in the desert and has lived in Marrakech for 11 years)**

Look who walked into my frame! Remember to double click if you want a larger image.

Our first official stop was a bakery. We entered a cave-like space where one baker was forming loaves of fresh dough and placing them onto large wooden paddles for his colleague to bake in the roaring wood burning fire. We ate fresh warm bread while we watched the process. It smelled fantastic in there!

We resumed our walk, and Omar pointed out the neighborhood hammam. The hammam is the public steam bath. In Muslim culture, people visit the baths on a regular basis. Men and women have separate hammam hours. The experience involves three steam rooms of varying temperatures, scrubbing the skin with black soap, applying argan oil to the skin, and relaxing in a cooler room.

After explaining the importance of the hammam in Moroccan culture, Omar took us into another cave-like space. There was a gentleman living there, who we assumed (wrongly) was homeless and squatting in the space. He immediately offered me his seat and served us hot mint tea and bread with oil. It turns out, he is responsible for keeping the fire that heats the pipes that make the steam for the hammam. That fire needs to burn continuously. We watched him tend his fire, and then he played his traditional Moroccan guitar and sang for us. What a beautiful person!

After our visit, we headed back out to the Medina, where the souks were opening up. We visited some artisans: a metalworker, a blade sharpener, a carpet warehouse, some artists’ workshops, and a spice and pigment store. Omar continually assured us that we did not need to buy anything, but we couldn’t resist a few items. I’m not sure why I need a pounded gold dish with a camel motif, but in that moment, I had to have it. Bill bought some tea glasses, almost bought a painting, and we did a little damage in the spice, soap, pigment, etc. shop.

We ended our tour by enjoying a rooftop brunch with Omar. He is a delightful conversationalist and speaks perfect English. I am continually impressed by the language skills of so many Moroccans. It is a privilege to spend time with local citizens and definitely one of the joys of travel.

I’ll just leave you with some more photos of the Medina.

Join Me Next Time for Adventures In A Hot Air Balloon and a Tuk-Tuk.

From Malaga to Marrakech (February 10, 2023)

Adventures In the South of Spain Goes Further South- To Morocco!

Double click on photos for larger view.

Ticket on Ryan Air -$100 Euros each plus fees for the privilege of carrying on a small cabin bag. Pay that fee when you buy your ticket, because it’s super- expensive to add it later. Does anyone travel with NO luggage? $35 Euros for said cabin bag purchased at the “China Store” (Sorry, that’s what the Spaniards call it) in Valencia. The suitcase is lightly packed with tiny toiletries and light weight clothing; leaving room for a few purchases.

The flight was short and uneventful. Oh, except for the announcement, ” Is anyone onboard a doctor?” A young man across the aisle from us answered the call and headed back a few rows to attend to a woman who was experiencing dizziness. Next, there was a call for a blood pressure cuff and perhaps a sugar packet. It seems that a basic first aid kit was not on board, but the duty-free cart still made its way down the aisle. Fortunately, after landing, the ill passenger was able to walk to the front of the plane for her wheelchair ride to a waiting ambulance.

I had passed much of the time chatting with the Morrocan businessman next to us. He gave me a few tips about Morocco, and the story of his nine children from various ex-wives in various countries. He was proud to tell me of his American family in LA.

Passport control was easy; we have our first stamp from the African continent! I had to keep reminding myself that I was really in Africa.

A driver was waiting for us with a sign for Riad Hazid. This was only the second time in my life, I have been met with a sign. The first time was Beijiing 2008. Both times, it was a welcome comfort.

The ride through the city was amazing! So many people and so many motorcycles! The “new city” outside of the Medina (old city) is large and modern. Once we entered the walled city, it was as if we had crossed a portal to the past; long past. The streets are narrow alleyways lined with endless souks (shops) and motorbikes are whizzing past everyone on foot. We parked at the Ben Youssef Mosque, where a young lady from the Riad met us and walked us to our lodging. A short walk, but long enough to have me wondering just what the hell we had gotten ourselves into. We turned down an even narrower alleyway with crumbling walls and pavement; then stopped at a door marked number 80. That’s all. This is it.

Inside portal number 80, was a haven of quiet luxury. We met with Sana, who served mint tea and cookies in a cozy lounge area, while she registered us. She also provided us with maps and the very helpful Maps.me app. She downloaded the Medina area to our phones and now we could access directions offline. During our four-night stay, she assisted us with train reservations, dinner reservations, a local guide, taxi drivers, and one unforgettable Tuk-Tuk ride (more about that later). She also cooked and served breakfast every morning. There were moments when her attentiveness bordered on overbearing, but if there was ever a time to upgrade our travel style, this was the time. We settled into our room, and then headed up to explore the rooftop. There was a pool with extremely cold water. Since the weather outside was a comfortable 70 degrees Fahrenheit, we never felt the need to take the plunge, but we did enjoy the lounge chairs a few times.

Now it was time to find lunch. Sana recommended Cafe Spice, so with Maps.me on Bill’s phone, we headed out for our first solo Medina adventure. Without Bill’s tech skills and sense of direction, I probably would never have left the Riad. Walking single-file on the right, looking down to avoid tripping on crumbled tiles, hoping not to get whacked by a motorcycle, it was difficult to take everything in; let alone to photograph it. The Medina is one big marketplace with stall after stall selling food and handicrafts. The vendors weren’t as pushy as I expected, and I never felt threatened or uncomfortable. We are obviously foreigners and tourists, so attempting to blend is impossible. But since Morocco’s economy depends on tourism, most Moroccans our welcoming. Many speak excellent English and seem to generally like the U.S.A. There are strict laws against harming a tourist. Still, it is wise to keep your wallet and phone secured and your wits about you. As to wardrobe, visiting women do not need to cover their hair, but it is respectful to cover your shoulders and knees.

We found Café Des ´´Epices ( Spice Cafe) in the Square of Spices. Lunch was tasty and reasonable, and the dining room has a great view of the square. The clientele was mostly tourists. After lunch, we strolled around the square; I was beginning to feel more comfortable. We found our way to Jamaa el Fna Square, commonly known as The Big Square. This is where you will find ATM machines for changing money; you will need cash in Morocco! In Marrakech, most restaurants will take credit cards, but in Fez and Chefchauen, many places were cash only. The Moroccan dirham is about 10 to the dollar, so 100 dirham is 10 dollars. It is a good idea to get some small bills and coins for tipping, although the ATM machine will give you only big bills. The Big Square is also where you will find snake charmers, musicians, street food, and sellers of everything! It’s a bit sleepy during the day, but come back at night when things get really wild. The whole square is smoky with food cooking, people are dancing to drum beats, and gambling games abound.

After the Big Square, we headed back to Riad Hizad for a late afternoon siesta. Sana reserved a table for us at Le Foundouk for a French/ Morrocan fusion dinner. The atmosphere was lovely, the food very good, and they had a nice wine list. We tried a Moroccan red. Morocco produces some good wines, even though they are a Muslim country. Since they were previously French territory, French is still widely spoken, and there is a definite tolerance for European ways. I mention this, because later in our trip, adult beverages were basically unavailable.

That wraps up Day 1 of our Moroccan adventure. I’ll leave you with some more photos. Tune into my next post for “Adventures with Omar.”