spain – Adventures In The South of Spain

Ronda

March 26-27, 2024

We have visited Ronda on a previous trip to Andalucía. It is well worth a visit or a revisit. The best way to access Ronda is by car. Since we don’t rent a car abroad, we took a taxi all the way. The ride itself goes through some stunning mountain scenery and takes about two hours. We stayed at the Parador of Ronda. Paradores are government sponsored hotels in buildings of historical significance or in locations of incomparable beauty. Ronda’s parador is of the latter type, as it is right next to the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) with fantastic views of the El Tajo (gorge) and the valley. Ronda also has a number of charming boutique hotels on its historic back streets.

Ronda is an historic town with well-preserved sites from its Islamic history, Christian Spain of the 1500’s, and the bullfighting legacy of the 1800’s. It was a stop on the “Grand Tour,” the so-named trip through Europe taken by the wealthy in the 18th and 19th centuries. A wall in Ronda memorializes the most famous of these “Viajeros Románticos” (Romantic Travelers)

Ernest Hemingway spent time in Ronda and wrote about Spanish bullfighting as an art form. (The Sun Also Rises, Death in the Afternoon, For Whom the Bell Tolls). There is a sculpture of him outside of Ronda’s bullring. Our travels these past years have been something of an unintended Hemingway pilgrimage; we have come across him in Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Pamplona, San Sebastian, Ronda, Havana, and of course, his birthplace in Oak Park, Illinois. Perhaps, surprisingly, I have not been to Key West, yet.

Filmmaker Orson Wells was also an aficionado (devoted fan) of Spain and of bullfighting. His ashes are buried in a well on the property of his friend Antonio Ordoñez of the famed Ordoñez family of bullfighters from Ronda.

Among other famous visitors to Ronda was first lady Michelle Obama. She and Sasha toured Ronda in 2019. The gardens at Casa del Rey Moro were renamed the Michelle Obama Gardens.

We took a walking tour through Ronda. Guided tours are available at the Tourist Office near the bullring. A walking tour is always helpful for getting one’s bearings and learning a bit of history. Our tour guide pointed out several buildings and suggested we return later to visit the interiors. I realized that Ronda, while small and walkable (if you don’t mind hills) could take days to fully appreciate.

The Plaza de Toros (Bull Ring) has an entire museum devoted to the history and culture of bullfighting. We spent a couple of hours touring the ring and the museum. Ronda is Spain’s oldest bullring. Ronda sponsors one bullfight each year: the corrida goyesca during the Feria de Pedro Romero in early September. Most of Spain’s remaining bullrings are in Andalucía in the south. Bullfighting has declined in popularity and is very expensive to maintain. Therefore, many towns with a ring host one “corrida” per year during a spring or summer festival .

We only stayed in Ronda one night, but we maximized our time despite some rain and some chilly temps. In two visits to Ronda we have not had a bad meal. In 2019, Bill and I enjoyed dinner at Pedro Romero’s . On this trip, we had a light snack in the lounge at Hotel Catalonia, which has a bird’s eye view of the bullring. We enjoyed a pre-dinner glass of wine at the Parador with its stunning views of the gorge and New Bridge. We had a wonderful dinner at Albacara in the small and charming Hotel Montelirio. Ronda boasts a number of quality restaurants with great views and renowned chefs. But you can also eat well by popping into one of the small local bar/ restaurants and ordering the menu of the day.

Gibraltar

March 23, 2024

On a clear day in Estepona the rocky outline of Gibraltar is visible from the beach. On a very clear day, one can see the shores of Africa and the line of ships waiting to pass through the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a sight I never tire of!

There is an Avanza bus everyday at 10:00 am from Estepona to La Línea (the line) for a price of about 6 euros. The trip is non-stop and takes 45 minutes. Of course if you have a car, you can drive there on good highways. I don’t know what the parking situation is like.

Bill and I and our friend Liz went on a Saturday. It was our second time there and Liz’ first. If you are in the Costa del Sol, you should go. It is an experience! After arrival at the bus station in La Línea, you walk toward ” the rock” to the Passport control building at the border. Don’t expect any signs pointing you there. Spain does its best to ignore that chunk of Britain sitting on their shores.

You will go through Spanish Border Control first and then British; the reverse on your way back. Upon exiting the building, follow the crowd to St. Christopher’s Gate where you wait for the green light to cross the runway. Yes, runway. The entrance to Gibraltar is on the other side of the airport. If a flight is taking off or landing, you will wait until it has finished, and then walk across the runway. You are expected to keep moving, but most people can’t resist taking a selfie of this unique experience.

Once you have crossed, there will be taxis and tour buses hoping for your business. We chose to walk into the village first. It is a bit of a walk and not really marked, so just follow the other walkers. Eventually you will arrive at the landport and once you walk through that, you emerge into the village square of Gibraltar. You are in Britain now with English pubs touting pints and fish and chips, English menus and English speakers. However, the restaurants in the square also serve good Spanish coffee and breakfast choices to please both sides of the border. We took a nice coffee break at an outdoor table and then strolled through town. Shops line both sides of the street selling jewelry, liquor, Cuban cigars, tobacco products, candy, perfumes, souvenirs, t-shirts, etc. It reminds me of the duty free shops at Heathrow Airport, only outside. There was even a parade through town, complete with bagpipers.

After enjoying the lively Saturday street life for a while, we signed up for a small group van tour. Our guide was Mohammed (Mo), a delightful young man of Moroccan heritage, born and raised in Gibraltar. He plays professional basketball for a local club and gives tours in his free time. We went to five locations that would have been very difficult to do on our own. While driving from place to place, he entertained us with stories and historical information, and patiently answered our constant questions. We shared the tour with a very nice couple from Wales who were there on a cruise. Our highlights included The Pillars of Hercules, Saint Michael’s Cave, The Tunnels in the Rock, The Skywalk, and the Nature Reserve.

The Nature Reserve is home to the Barbary Macaques, sometimes referred to as the Barbary Apes, but they are not monkeys. The macaques are protected and fed by the reserve rangers. Tourists should not touch them or feed them, but they are very comfortable with people and will pose for pictures. They will also attempt to enter vehicles, steal food and water bottles, phones, eyeglasses, etc.

The Pillars of Hercules and the Skywalk offer panoramic views of the Straits and the Port of Gibraltar far below. Unfortunately, we were there on a cloudy day, so the vista was foggy, but still awe-inspiring. Large container ships are lined up to pass through the strait.

St Michael’s Cave is a natural cave within the Rock of Gibraltar. It was once believed to be the entrance to hell at the edge of the known world. Today it welcomes tourists with light shows on the rocks and occasional concerts in the natural amphitheatre.

The tunnels were built during World War II to house supplies and soldiers, and to shoot canons from narrow openings blasted from the rock.

**The Landport Entrance**
**( footbridge)**

Gibraltar Village on a Saturday

Caves and Tunnels

A day trip to Gibraltar is a unique and worthwhile experience. It is unique! Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next Post: Ronda

Tenerife : Part 3 “Adventures In The South of Spain” Goes To the South of Tenerife.

Playa de las Américas (January 23rd-February 1st, 2024)

While we were in Los Gigantes, if we mentioned that our next destination was Arona, people would wrinkle their nose and say “touristy,” “crowded,” “noisy,” or worse. So, with some trepidation we taxied to the south of the island for our last eight days in Tenerife. We reminded ourselves that the best travel advice we were ever given was simply “embrace it!”

There are reasons that places become tourist attractions in the first place, things like natural beauty and good weather. This area has both with its seemingly endless stretches of sandy beaches and temperatures of 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) pretty much year round. Those temperatures are a bit higher than in past decades, when the Canary Islands were known as the land of “eternal spring.”

We arrived at our lodging early (of course), stowed our luggage and headed for the sea walk. The sun was midday hot and the paseo was crowded with yes, tourists. We walked a bit and then ducked inside a cool restaurant/bar called Friends, where we enjoyed a salad and a beer. Prices were a little higher than in other parts of the island, but not outrageous. It wasn’t long before we were able to check into our nice rental apartment, which was part of the hotel complex Family Gardens Compostela Beach. As soon as we were settled, we headed to the pool for a refreshing swim. The water was heated, at least more so than our last place, and the desk area was very nice, complete with a bar for drinks and light meals.

It was easy to establish a holiday routine here. Every morning we walked for four miles along the Golden Mile. The beach coves are stunning and there are numerous hotels and apartment complexes. This stretch of the paseo is less congested than the Cristianos area, at least in January. The temperatures were perfect for walking in the morning. We passed several groups of surfers ranging from beginner lessons to advanced enthusiasts. We found a favorite café (Metropolis) to enjoy a coffee while watching the surfers.

The west coast of Tenerife is home to over 600 pilot whales. The deep Atlantic waters provide squid, their preferred food. It is easy to book a whale tour along the paseo. The boats leave from the Puerto Colón, about two miles from our apartment. We took a small catamaran tour, eight guests and our captain. The three hour cruise included a light lunch and the option of a swim offshore. Only one young man took advantage, the rest of us were contented with the sun and the breeze. We saw several pods of pilot whales a a couple of schools of dolphins. They came pretty close to the boat, but we mainly could view fins. We also got to view ” hippie beach,” a secluded set of caves above the sand, where people are supposedly living.

Some Scenes From Our Whale Boat Tour

A stroll to the Sunday market in Cristianos provided some great people watching. Young people were playing beach volleyball while the older crowd enjoyed petanque (bocce) tournaments. Street musicians and entertainers of every variety amuse the crowds for tips. An endless string of cafés and restaurants line the shore. The market itself has stalls selling every manner of items, minus produce. The island vacation vibe was in full swing.

There are so many dining options that choosing a place for dinner can be intimidating. We asked our host for recommendations and she gave us a number of good ones. Online reviews are also helpful. Canarian cuisine features good fresh seafood, small canarian potatoes, avocado salads, sweet pepper sauces, and every type of ethnic and international dishes. Prices in this area tended to be higher than in Los Gigantes and Santa Cruz, but still much lower than back home in Chicago. Our most memorable meals were at Mesón Castellano, Restaurante 2020, Indian BBQ, Garibaldi, and Pa’lante. Pa’lante was especially fun for us, as owner Jessica is American, and the only American we met on Tenerife.

The Golden Mile at night is a like a mini-version of the Las Vegas strip, with an Atlantic beach and without the casinos. There are a couple of gaming salons, but I don’t think that is the same thing at all. I can’t say for sure, because we didn’t go in. We enjoyed a cocktail on the rooftop of The Hard Rock Café. Several of the outdoor bars have live music and the fountains are colorfully lit. Unlike Vegas, most places shut down relatively early.

You may have noticed a haziness in many of the outdoor photos. La Calima is to blame. She blew in, literally, from the Sahara bringing sand particles to the skies of the Canary Islands. Many days we could not see the neighboring islands of La Gomera and El Hierro. It caused the air quality to be less than ideal. After a few days, things improved. We experienced La Calima two years ago when it actually went as far north as Madrid and was much thicker. (See my Madrid 2022 post)

We enjoyed our eight days in Playa de las Américas very much, much more than we expected to. Our time on Tenerife was a great experience, one we are grateful to have had. On our last night, we had to set a 3:00 AM alarm to make our 7:00 AM flight back to Madrid. Our Air B@B host drove us to Tenerife South Airport. The flight to Madrid was fine. From there, we took a taxi to Atocha Station where we had a long time to kill before our train to Malaga, then taxi to Estepona. We arrived in Estepona exhausted, but relieved to be there.

Thank you for reading my post. I hope you are inspired to experience Tenerife for yourself. Please know that my articles only reflect my own opinions and experiences. I am not paid to promote any businesses I might mention. Geri

Next: Adventures In The South of Spain Goes Home To Estepona (February 1- April 1, 2024)

Adventures In The South Goes To Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

On January 9th, we escaped (barely) the Chicago winter. It was snowing at O’Hare Airport and I wondered if our flight would be canceled. It was not, but many were in the days to follow. After a somewhat turbulent flight, we arrived safely in Madrid the next morning. We checked into The Radisson Blu Hotel near The Prado. Manuel at the front desk served us coffee while we waited for our room, recommended Los Gatos for a light lunch, made us a dinner reservation at El Barril de las Letras, and arranged a taxi back to the airport for our flight to Tenerife the next morning. The weather in Madrid was cool, but pleasant and we spent an enjoyable afternoon strolling the area. After a shower and a rest, we were on Spanish time and headed out for an 8:30 dinner; late for us, early by Madrid standards. We stopped for a drink in the cocktail lounge at The Westin Palace Hotel. It is an iconic landmark, built for the wedding reception of King Alfonso XII in 1912. Since then it has been frequented by a number of celebrities, including Ernest Hemingway. The bartenders were professional and friendly and the manager was happy to answer our questions and let us take a look around. Then we enjoyed a delicious dinner at El Barril. We have been to Madrid multiple times and it always feels like an old friend while offering opportunities for new experiences.

The next morning, we flew to Santa Cruz, Tenerife for a four night stay in the island’s capital. Many tourists skip Santa Cruz in their rush to get to the resorts on the other side of the island; for others it is a port of call on their cruise itinerary. We are retired, and therefore have the luxury of time. We enjoyed leisurely strolls in the very walkable historic section, great meals at reasonable prices, and excursions to nearby towns. We stayed at The AC Santa Cruz. The location was perfect and the room was small, but comfortable. The rooftop bar and pool area offers a great view of the city, good drinks and tapas. The party on the roof goes until 1:00 am, so some nights our room was noisy.

On our first night in Santa Cruz, we were fortunate enough to walk in and get a table at La Hierbita. Built in 1893, it was the first restaurant in the city. The front room is a bar with a few tables and the back area, once the brothel, is now an additional dining room. The menu features fresh seafood and other local options. Canarian cuisine is a fusion of traditional Spanish, Moroccan, tropical island produce and international influences. We shared a salad, roasted octopus ( the specialty of the house), and a bottle of Canarian red wine. We enjoyed chatting with the three young French gentlemen pictured above. The one in the center reminded me of a young Johnny Depp.

Colorful buildings in the Historic center

The next morning, we discovered La Escala, a corner coffee shop in the back streets of the historic district. The setting retains its old world charm, while offering an array of tempting coffee drinks and healthy, delicious breakfast options. Next, we headed to the market to have a look around. The bridge which leads to that side of the city was crowded with people walking in both directions. The market itself was bustling. I love the atmosphere of foreign markets! Too bad we just had breakfast, because there are always good eating options.

After strolling the market, we headed across the street to sit in the shady square and observe the locals and the tourists. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the great weather and the slower pace of life. We chatted with a friendly German couple who were there on a cruise of the islands.

On our walk back from the market, we stopped at the Museum of Fine Arts. The building was once part of the adjoining church and later was the public library until the new one was built. Admission was free and there were only a few visitors. We enjoyed their collection of paintings and sculpture.

After a full day and of strolling through Santa Cruz, we took an evening walk to see the lights of the city. We passed the site where British Admiral Horatio Nelson led an attack on the city in 1797. Nelson lost his right arm and Tenerife remained under Spanish control. We had dinner at La Concepción, the restaurant nearest the church. In Spanish towns, we have always found a good local restaurant next to the church. At La Concepción, we enjoyed Canarian food and wine and the company of the friendly locals at the next table.

Historical Banner Commemorating the battle with the British

On Saturday, our third day in town, we took the tram to La Laguna, a historic town 40 minutes away. It was originally the capital of Tenerife and was the home of many wealthy merchants. It’s grid of streets was the model for Spanish colonial cities in the Americas. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The colorful buildings and beautiful balconies create a charming backdrop to the many sidewalk cafés. We had a delightful lunch at a small Lebanese café.

We visited the Museum of Tenerife History, housed in a 16th century mansion. There we were able to gain some historical context for our trip. The Canary Islands were vital to Spain’s conquest of the New World, because they were the last port before the Atlantic crossing to Cuba. They were vital to the trade in goods and later in slaves. Slaves from mainland Africa were brought to Tenerife to be loaded onto ships bound for the colonies. The museum also explained the various industries in Tenerife: sugar cane, tobacco, winemaking, blacksmithing, carpentry, textiles, and agriculture. Today the island’s economy is mainly banana production and tourism.

The Holy Cross used in the first mass that gave the city its name

On Sunday morning we attended mass at La Iglesia de la Concepción in Santa Cruz. It was sparsely attended. Then we took the bus to Playa de las Teresitas, about 30 minutes outside the city. The route is not very scenic; we passed a number of oil storage tanks. The beach itself is manmade with golden sand brought in from the Sahara. It is a beautiful setting with the mountains protecting the cove from strong winds. The water was calm and we saw open water swimmers, paddleboarders, and a sport that looked to be beach pickleball. After a couple of delightful hours on the beach, we walked to the nearby fishing village and enjoyed some delicious grilled fish at a local restaurant. Then we got back on the bus for the trip back to the city.

The next morning we packed up to taxi to our next destination on the other side of the island. I’ll leave you with some final shots of Santa Cruz.

Next stop : Los Gigantes

A Deeper Dive Into Madrid’s Art and Food Scene

March 13-17, 2022 -Last Stop on The Adventure

We have been to Madrid several times in the past, and it has always been one of our favorite cities. If you would like my suggestions for first time visitors, message me.

On this visit, we stayed on Calle Arenal, near The Puerta del Sol. It was a very convenient location, but there was quite a bit of street noise.

We visited two museums that are a little further away from the center of things. Both are walkable if you don’t mind a couple of miles. The Metro (subway) will get you a lot closer, and a taxi works as well. Due to weather conditions, we walked there and taxied back.

The first of these was The Sorolla. Joaquín Sorolla (1863- 1923) was an Impressionist painter from Valencia who is best known for his beach scenes. I confess to not being previously familiar with his work, but both Bill and I liked it very much. The collection is housed in his family home, built in 1910, which has been left much as it was at the time of his death.

Our second museum was the Lázaro Galdiano Museum, housed in the mansion of José Lázaro Galdiano (1862-1947). He was an editor and financier who married wealthy Argentine widow Paula Florido in 1903; they built the mansion to showcase their private collection of archeological and religious artifacts, paintings, ivories, swords, knives, coins, textiles, and furniture. We visited on a Monday morning and there was only one other visitor. We were able to ask questions of the guards and since they were bored, we practically got a guided tour.

Our third museum was The Prado, because we just can’t go to Madrid and skip the Prado. Photos are not allowed. The Prado should be at the top of your Madrid list. The collection is extensive and international, but heavily focused on the Old Masters of Italy and Spain. It houses the “Royal Collection”, so a stroll through The Prado is another way to experience the history of the Monarchy. If your time (and energy) are limited, grab a floor plan and visit the El Greco, Velásquez, and Goya galleries. What about Picasso, you say? The Prado collection stops in 1883. For Impressionism and Contemporary Art, visit the Reina Sofía Museum and The Thyssen- Bornemisza Museum. Both of these are fabulous, but since we visited them on previous trips, I won’t go into detail here. Another side note: Malaga and Barcelona both have Picasso Museums.

On this trip, we had lunch at Restaurante Botín, founded in 1725 and certified by The Guinness Book of Records as the “World’s Oldest Restaurant.” With all of my times in Madrid, I had never eaten there. Despite it being a tourist destination and despite our rather rude waiter, we enjoyed our lunch there. The food was excellent and the prices surprisingly affordable. It was also a “Hemingway Haunt.”

Another day, we enjoyed lunch at Zerain, a traditional Basque restaurant owned by a delightful woman. The walls were decorated with vintage photos of San Sebastián. When we told our waiter we had recently spent time there, he sent the owner over to talk with us. She was adorable and the our meal was excellent.

We also enjoyed a couple of tapas crawls. There are several good places in Plaza Santa Ana to enjoy wine and food outdoors or in. Plaza Oriente also has a couple of options and great views of the Royal Palace, which is lit up at night. Plaza de la ´Opera has a lively evening vibe and several cafés and restaurants.

If you recall my first blog post, I told the story of our last Madrid evening in 2020. We were enjoying calamares and wine at Cuatro Robles when the news of the Pandemic came on TV, and citizens were told to prepare for a shutdown. Two years later, we told that story to our waiter and the bartender. They were enjoyed our story. By the way, their calamares are still the best.

Views of Puerta del Sol from Zapstop Coffee ( a shoe store with a top floor coffee shop)

Do you notice a haze in the above photos? That is due to “la Calima”, the Saharan sands that covered the Iberian Peninsula on March 15th. It created an eerie orange glow and poor air quality. Those COVID masks came in handy! When it rained, muddy sand flowed through the streets and puddled on the walkways.

Could this be a sign that it is time to fly home?

The day before our flight back to The States, we needed a negative COVID test. The staff at our hotel (Francisco I) made the appointment for a clinician to come to our room to administer the test. Within 10 minutes, we had our results and within an hour, we had an email certifying our freedom to fly. (Add 90 Euros to the cost of the trip.)

March 17th (Happy St. Patrick’s Day!) was a long day of travel, but we got home without incident. We are happy to be home and reconnecting with family and friends after a great winter in Spain! Thank you for following along.

Geri

Historic Toledo: A UNESCO World Heritage Site

March 12-13, 2022

There’s A Lot of History in These Cobblestones

The historic section of Toledo well-preserved and much visited. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Toledo is an easy day trip from Madrid by car, train, or on a bus tour. However, it really is deserving of a one or two night stay. The day tours depart in the late afternoon, leaving town a lot less crowded. After dark, it is easier to imagine Toledo as it was in the Middle Ages. The monuments are lit at night, creating dramatic vistas.

We used some points and splurged for a night at The Eugenia de Montijo, a lovely boutique hotel in the Jewish quarter. We arrived early on our first day and were welcomed by Ana, who stowed our suitcase and called La Orza to make a dinner reservation for us.

Then, we were off to see the many museums in the neighborhood! The historic center is small with narrow, winding streets, that are sometimes steep and slippery. Proceed slowly! This small quarter is a microcosm of Spanish history from ancient times, to the Romans (192 BC), the Visigoths (6th century), the Moors (712-1085), and the Christians (1095-). Under the Moorish occupation and part of the Christian domination (roughly 1075-1350), there was religious tolerance and a flourishing of learning and culture among the three major religions (Islam, Judaism, Catholicism).

We began our day at the Sephardic (Jewish) Museum in the former synagogue El Tránsito. Besides the beautiful architecture, there is an informative exhibit of Jewish History in Spain. Below the building are reconstructed Roman ruins. Another former synagogue, renamed Santa María La Blanca when it was converted to a Christian church, is now on exhibit to honor it’s Arab architects and builders, and those who once worshipped there.

Next, it was on to the “El Greco” sites. El Greco (Domenikos Theotokopoulos), titled The Greek (1541-1614), is considered the icon of the Spanish Renaissance. He came to Spain in 1577 and lived mainly in Toledo until his death. The El Greco museum is housed in a replica of what may have been his home in the Jewish quarter (long after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492.) The museum contains stunning originals of his art, and there is a video slideshow of El Greco works from museums and churches in other places. The El Greco Museum served as a model for displaying art in historical context.

**The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (San Telmo Chapel)**

After a lunch stop at an outdoor café, it was on to The Santa Cruz Museum and The Royal Monastery of Saint John. The Santa Cruz Museum showcases Spanish religious art from the 15th and 16th centuries. It also traces the history of the monarchy. I won’t attempt a summary, but it is important to note that the marriage of Isabella of Castilla and Phillip of Aragon in 1469 centralized the government of Spain. In 1492, they expelled the Muslims and Jews who refused to convert to Catholicism, started The Inquisition, financed Columbus, and launched Spain’s Golden Age.

After a full museum day, we went back to our hotel for a siesta before heading out for the evening. We took a taxi to the other side of the river where there is a panoramic lookout. After stopping to take a few photos, we continued on to The Parador of Toledo for a drink. As I have mentioned before, Paradores are national hotels that are either in historic buildings or have great vistas. This one has great views of Toledo, but the decor in the bar area had a Franco area austerity. Presumably, the rooms are nice, but we were glad we stayed in town. After enjoying a glass of wine and some cheese, we caught a taxi back. I asked the driver about the castle (see above photo). He said that it is now used for youth educational camps. How cool is that? It reminds me of Hogwarts.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner at La Orza. The ambience was cozy and the owner and servers were very attentive and friendly. After dinner, we strolled toward the cathedral until it began to rain. Time to call it a day!

It was great to wake up to church bells and the rooftops of the historic district outside our window. After breakfast in the attractive lobby, we headed out to visit The Alcazar and The Cathedral. The Alcazar is a huge fortress that now houses a military museum. The museum traces the history of Spain’s many wars. After browsing many displays of armor, weaponry, and uniforms, we were ready for a coffee break. Then, it was on to the Cathedral of Toledo! The cathedral is huge and impressive. Tickets must be purchased at the Cathedral Store, a block away from the main entrance. Speaking of tickets, they are required at all of the buildings. We purchased a bracelet our first day for 10 euros each. Some of the museums did not accept the bracelet, but most of the time seniors were free anyway. So the bracelet may not have mattered. In high season, it might save you some time in line.

After visiting the cathedral, we enjoyed a good meal at a small Halal (Islamic) restaurant. This seemed to to mirror the historic diversity of Toledo and was a delightful finale to our visit.

Next Post: Madrid. Then Home!

Donostia/San Sebastián

Adventures In The South of Spain Heads North To Basque Country (March 1-7, 2022)

San Sebastián (Donostia in Euskara) has been on our “bucket list” for a while. We held off until March in the hopes that it would be warming up in the North by then. That was not quite the case; it rained four out of our six days. Sometimes the rain is a gentle mist; other times it is more persistent. The locals always have their umbrella handy, and waterproof jackets and footwear are a staple.

Despite the weather, it is an outdoor life. Runners, walkers, cyclists, swimmers, kayakers, paddle boarders, sailors, soccer players, and strollers share the boardwalk, the beach, and the bay. Beautiful La Concha Beach is the main attraction. The paseo maritimo (sea walk) loops the city and connects with the river walk.

We took a walking tour on our first day. I highly recommend this as a way to orient to any new city. Our guide was Fran from AirB@B Experiences. He conducted the tour in English, and Bill and I were the only participants. Fran is from Buenos Aires, but has lived in San Sebasti´an for 10 years and he really knows his history. We learned that the Basques are an ancient culture who speak Euskara, a language unlike any other spoken today. The city name was changed from Donostia to San Sebastián when a convent was built in the Middle Ages. The wall was built to discourage invaders. Fran showed us part of the original wall that was discovered when they built an underground garage. Above ground, the location of the original wall is marked by flowers. The wall was breached in the 1800’s by Napoleon’s army. Canon fire caused most of the city to burn down. Most of the rebuilding took place during The Belle Epoch, when the wealthy aristocrats of France summered in San Sebastián. French architects were hired, and thus there is a definite Parisian look and feel to the city. When the city needed to grow beyond its walls, they expanded in the direction of the sea with landfill.

Queen María Cristina had her vacation palace built here (Miramar.) Miramar reminds me of a Swiss chalet and the neighborhood around it has more of an Alpine look than Spanish. Since María Cristina was a Hapsburg (Austro-Hungarian) this makes sense.

More Views of San Sebastián

Food is celebrated in San Sebastián. The cafés and bars are busy from breakfast until closing, and after closing there are clubs. Locals, business travelers, and tourists have a lot of options when it comes to eating and drinking, and almost all of them are of high quality and fairly priced. We found a favorite coffee/ bakery for breakfast. The ladies who worked there were friendly, and by day three were joking with Bill, and complimenting him on his attempts to speak Spanish. I ordered a different pastry each day in the hopes of working my way through all of them. Alas, I ran out of days before I could complete my mission. For lunch, we generally popped into one of the numerous bars and sampled pintxos (Basque version of tapas). They are displayed in a case on the bar and you just tell the bartender or point to the ones you want. Some bars number their selections and give you a paper and pencil to indicate your choices. Our favorite pintxo bar was Barre-Barre, but seriously they are all good. Some nights, we went out for a nice sit-down dinner. The wine selection by the glass or bottle was always good and reasonable. Restaurants have a range of prices, but in general are still more reasonable than at home. However, if you are looking to splurge, there are a number of Michelin-starred restaurants, and restaurants hoping to become Michelin-starred. We didn’t splurge big, but we dined well in San Sebastián.

We also enjoyed going to posh hotels for a drink. The Hotel Lóndres on the bay has a bar/ restaurant with a view of the beach, but the bayside tables were only for hotel guests. We stopped in for a nightcap one evening. The drinks were fine, but the bartenders were a little snobbish. Another night, we went to Hotel Zenit, a converted convent and the lounge is in the former chapel. A unique experience, for sure! The bartenders were nice and the cocktail menu had cleverly named drinks like “The Novice”. However, our favorite experience by far was at Dry, the bar in the Hotel María Cristina on the river. We sat at the bar and chatted with Alberto, the bartender who has worked at the hotel for 52 years. Judging by his looks, he was a young teen when he started and has worked his way up to head bartender at Dry. Bill immediately asked, “Who is the most famous person you have met?” Without hesitation, Alberto answered “Bette Davis, when she was alive.” Bette’s portrait hangs on the wall and a photo of her smoking a cigarette is the menu cover. Alberto has also served drinks to Mick Jagger, Bruce Springstein, Robert DeNiro, and countless other celebrities. San Sebastián hosts an international film festival every September, and the rich and famous stay at this hotel. For $350 Euros in the off season you can too.

One day, we walked to the bottom of Monte Igueldo and took the Funicular (incline) to the top. There is an amusement park up there that has been shuttered since the 90’s. The views of the bay and city below are fabulous. We were able to snap a couple of quick photos before it rained and the entire place was totally fogged in with zero visibility. In search of shelter (and a bathroom) we found the Hotel Monte Vista. We had a coffee in their lobby and then had them call us a taxi to go back down. With the rain and fog and the abandoned carnival rides, it seemed like a good setting for a horror movie.

To offset the calorie consumption that is inevitable here, we found the local indoor pool and swam laps a couple of times during our stay. We also did a lot of walking along the seaside and through town (usually on our way to our next meal). We did not swim in the bay, although we witnessed other people taking the plunge into the cold Bay of Biscay. It is reportedly quite lovely in summer, but the crowds would be much bigger. I recommend you consider a visit to San Sebastián. The people are very welcoming. Three days is probably plenty for most people; our travel pace is much slower than average.

Next destination: Pamplona. Stay tuned!

Estepona: Charming Streets, Beaches, and Public Art (February 2022)

This is our third stay in Estepona. We learned about it from a British couple we chatted with in San Francisco back in 2016. In 2019, we stayed here for two weeks. In 2020, for three weeks. In 2021, we didn’t travel (COVID). Now, in 2022, we are here for the entire month of February.

Views From Our Balcony on Avenida España

The sun rises over the Mediterranean and on a clear day you can see Gibraltar.

We have been fortunate each time to find an apartment in our budget with the above views. I’m not sure how much longer that will be the case, as this town is undergoing a “great renovation”. We have observed big changes in the time we have been coming here.

The mayor, José María García Urbano, is ” a man with a plan”. He began with a 10 year proposal in 2011 and the work continues. His goals included: ending corruption, reducing municipal debt, renovating the crumbling historical center, building a sports complex and auditorium, attracting businesses willing to invest in the community, creating large pedestrian areas, promoting public art, public parks, and public gardens; all with the goal of attracting tourism to increase quality employment and improve public health. In short, to turn this small fishing village into the “Garden of the Costa del Sol,” while maintaining its small town charm and ensuring a good life for the local residents.

Public works are in evidence everywhere. Underground garages are being added to get more cars off the streets. The historic district is almost completely pedestrian with shops, bars, and restaurants. Flowers are planted and groomed by village employees, the sand on all the beaches is groomed daily, the boardwalk is washed every morning, the “senda litoral” (sea path) has been extended in both directions for hiking and biking. Eventually it will go all the way to Marbella. We have biked 7 miles in one direction before running out of path.

Public Parks and Public Works

So, life is good for the tourists, but is this all too good to be true? Will people get priced out of their neighborhoods with all of the luxury buildings going up? We have seen an occasional homeless person sleeping in the park, although far fewer than in other places. There is a planned complex of 100 affordable housing units. Contractors that wish to build here are required to contribute to the public fund for green spaces and community centers. Taxes have been significantly reduced and the inherited debt from previous administrations is almost gone. There is a screen in the rotunda with the “debt graph.” Sustainability is also a goal, so if solar panels are feasible for your dwelling, city hall pays for them. Oh, by the way, the mayor doesn’t accept a salary for the job.

The Charming Streets of Old Town Estepona

Murals on Buildings

The Orchidarium

A Few of Our Favorite Places

Public Sculpture

**Tribute to the Laborer and the Fisherman**

More Ways to Enjoy Estepona

**Paddle boarding** in the shadow of Gibraltar

Can you tell, I’m a big fan of this town? We love the weather! There has been sunshine almost every day, but even a cloudy day here is pretty nice. Daytime temperatures are in the 60’s and cooler at night, perfect for walking and biking. There are also great golf courses here if you like golf.

We have been swimming regularly at the indoor 25 meter pool and taking long walks along the sea path. On the beach, I look for sea glass and we have dipped our toes in The Mediterranean, but it’s still a bit chilly to plunge in. We have been making the rounds of our favorite bars and restaurants, and discovering new ones. We made friends with an Irish couple and have enjoyed a couple social dates with them. Our stay here ends March 1st. Then “adventures in the south of Spain” is heading north to San Sebastián. Stay tuned!

Thank you for reading. My reviews are purely based on our personal experience. I am unpaid for my opinions. I take my own photos and write my own content.

Geri

Discovering Arcos de la Frontera: A Magical White Village of the Cádiz Region

Arcos de la Frontera is one of Andalucías “white villages” : towns settled by the Moors (Muslim invaders from North Africa.) The term “la frontera” refers to the border between Muslim and Christian territories. The battles for Reconquest were often small local skirmishes for control of a single town. The white villages are usually up in the hills, so that invaders could be spotted from afar. The white buildings were coated in limestone to fight disease, and they have the added advantage of protection from the strong southern sun. The village streets are narrow and short. The resulting confusion put invaders at a disadvantage. Today’s invaders, the tourists, will wander about getting lost and thinking they have walked a long way, when really they have been going in circles. I speak from experience.

We went to Arcos by bus from Cádiz. The trip was comfortable and took about an hour and a half (far less if you rent a car). The bus station is in the lower city and our hotel was in the upper. We took a taxi up the mountain.

We were staying two nights at The Parador de Arcos de la Frontera. The Paradores in Spain are government hotels. To be designated a Parador, they are either in historic buildings, breathlessly situated geographically, or some combination of the two. This one has amazing vistas of the entire valley below. It was built in modern times, but is right next to the castle and blends perfectly with the historic streets of the upper town. This parador has 23 rooms, only 4 of which were full when we were there. Our room was lovely with an outside balcony and an amazing view of the valley. The common areas were charming and cozy, and the hotel restaurant was very good. Twice we chatted with local businessmen who meet daily in the lounge area for coffee or a “copa” (wine). Always a good sign when the locals come there.

The sites of Arcos could be covered in a day. There are two main churches (San Pedro and Santa María). I recommend going up the tower at Santa María; the views in the bell tower are spectacular. We went in the late afternoon and the light was beautiful. Again, we had the space to ourselves.

Besides the churches, there is a small art gallery, various lookout points, and some bars and restaurants in the historic section. The castle, it seems, is privately owned and only opens for tours four times a year. We spent a lot of time walking around the old streets and of course, taking pictures. Although we didn’t need two nights, we really enjoyed them.

I hope you enjoy these color and black and white photos of Arcos.

Below are some more scenes from around town.

Thank you for joining me in Arcos de la Frontera! Geri

Exploring Historic Castillo San Marcos In Puerto Santa María

El Puerto de Santa María is across The Bay of Cádiz from the city of Cádiz. We took the ferry over on a Sunday. It reminded us of our ferry trip from San Francisco to Sausalito when we visited Christine. We enjoyed the 30 minute ride to Santa María, admiring sailboats on the blue water. After docking, we headed for the historic center, which is typically where the action is in small Spanish towns.

It wasn’t hard to spot the castle; high ground, thick walls, towers… and just outside of the walls; a café. Time for a coffee and croissant! I love to drink coffee in the sunshine surrounded by centuries of history.

The city of Cádiz is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe. Phoenicians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors (North African Muslims), and Christians are all part of the story. The Arab occupation from the 700’s AD until the final Reconquest in 1492 is responsible for much of the architecture and beauty of this region.

Cádiz province claims a number of “Columbus ” connections, some true, some legends. Columbus himself spent two years at The Castle San Marcos, while arranging funding for his second voyage. The voyage did not leave from Santa María, and apparently it’s just coincidence that it shares a name with one of his ships.

After finishing our coffee, we walked around to the front of the castle, where we paid a small entrance fee to tour the grounds. We had the castle pretty much to ourselves and only encountered a few other guests. The castle rooms and grounds are immaculately kept, and we enjoyed our visit. It was especially fun to discover the sherry bodega and its barrels of “Castillo” sherry.

From the castle we walked through town in search of lunch. Santa María is fairly spread out. We seemed to be in the Osborne Sherry warehouse section and everything was closed up on Sunday. We found the bullring, an impressive structure, but there was nothing happening there. Lunch options were quite limited, a situation we have seldom encountered in Spain. Not to worry, we haven’t gone hungry yet.

Having exhausted the highlights of town, we headed back to the port to wait for our return ferry. Here we found a nice waterfront place to enjoy a beverage, along with most of the town’s residents. The rest of them may have gone to Cádiz for the day, as there was a large crowd getting off the ferry when it pulled into port.