Exploring Taormina: Stunning Views and Culinary Delights

February 8-12, 2025

If I had to sum up Taormina in one word it would be “Views.” If I could add a second word it would be “Food.” From the ancient Greeks to the Gilded Age to Season 2 of “The White Lotus,” Taormina has been a destination for those seeking relaxation and inspiration.

We reserved four nights at an AirB&B apartment in the historic center. We taxied from the train station and Roberto met us at the front door. Check-in was a bit rushed, since he was illegally parked on the pedestrian street. He neglected to show us how to turn on the hot water; fortunately Bill figured it out.

The apartment was in the style of a row house with five vertical levels, so there were a lot of steep stairs. Each bedroom and bath was on a different level. The third floor was the kitchen/dining and laundry rooms. Level five was the living room with a spiral staircase to the rooftop. We had an amazing view of the street below, the rooftops of the city center and Mt. Etna in the distance. For most of our stay, Etna was fogged in, but on our last day it revealed itself. Betty looked out the window and exclaimed, “Look at that snow covered mountain!” The day we left town it began erupting.

We were in a prime location for walking to the main drag (Corso Humberto I). We were steps from good restaurants and a small general store for breakfast items, snacks, bottled water and wine. The shop owner was a delight as he cheerfully sliced prosciutto and cheeses. When we showed up on a rainy Sunday morning, he met us at the door, told us he was closed, but opened up to sell us three umbrellas at 5 euro apiece.

A Sunday Jaunt to Castlemola

With our new umbrellas in hand we strolled through town to the nearby taxi stand. After a brief negotiation with the driver we were headed up Mt Tauro to the hilltop town of Castlemola. The views were stunning and we were happy not to be driving. Our driver spoke English fairly well and he pointed out sites along the way. He parked near the church square in Castlemola and waited for our return. ” Take your time, it won’t take long.”

Castlemola is tiny and charming. In summer season it gets overrun by tourists. On a rainy day in February we had it to ourselves. We walked up the path to the ruins of the Norman castle, popped into the church for a few minutes, and looped through town. On a sunny day it would be pleasant to dine outdoors at one of their quaint cafés. It was not a sunny day.

On the way back down the mountain, we stopped at the shrine of Madonna de la Rocca, but it too was closed up for the season. Driving through Taormina on our return, our driver pointed out certain landmarks and explained their background stories. More than one grand hotel was once a private residence; none appeared to be open in the winter. Even the Four Seasons, of “White Lotus” fame is only open during Three Seasons. We learned that the beach scenes were actually shot in Céfalu.(Next on our itinerary)

The Pride of Taormina:The Ancient Theatre

The sun emerged the next day and we headed out to Taormina’s main attraction: Teatro Antico (The Ancient Theatre.) Flowers bloomed outside the ticket booth. Inside the Entrance Hall there is an exhibit with archeological finds and explanations of building stones, columns, etc. The audioguide tour was very informative and gave us a much better understanding of the structures and history of the theatre.

Then we stepped outside into the open-air theatre. The views of mountains and sea were breathtaking! Now I understood the enduring popularity of Taormina.

The ancient Greeks built the theatre on this spot in the 3rd century BC. The Romans renovated it for their entertainments in the 1st century AD. The theatre has been amazingly well-maintained throughout the centuries and continues to host performances during the summer.

We were able to experience the Ancient Theatre with very few other visitors, one of the unique privileges of off-season travel.

Other Notable Spots

Apart from the Ancient Theatre, there are not many sites in Taormina, but strolling through town is very enjoyable. An easy stroll from Porta Catania to Porta Messina follows the medieval road, which today is Taormina’s commercial center. You will pass the Piazza IX de Aprile, the Clock Tower and the Cathedral.

The Public Gardens are definitely worth a visit. Once owned by Lady Florence Trevalyn, a Scottish noblewoman who donated the gardens to the city in 1922. Beautifully maintained paths meander through botanical gardens, a playground, and several storybook buildings called “The Follies.”

On another morning, we took a bus down to Mazzaro Beach. The beach is small and scenic, and rocky. There is not much action at the beach in the off-season. We didn’t even find an open coffee shop, so we caught the next bus back up the mountain to Taormina. In-season there there is a cable car that runs from town to the beach.

Memorable Meals in Taormina

There are plenty of good dining options in Taormina. While some popular destinations were closed for the winter, there were enough choices to keep us happy. Some favorites during our four-day stay were Liola Ostería and Bar, Adduma, Bistro du Monde, and Ostería da Rita. All were chef-owned and operated and staffed with friendly servers. My personal favorite was Adduma, where the chefs came out to meet us after our meal.

Time to board the train to Cefalu

Thank you for reading. Look for my next post from Cefalu.

Ciao for now.

Geri