We left blustery Chicago on January 14th on an overnight flight to Madrid (American/ Iberia). After two recovery days in Madrid, we flew Ryan Air to Essaouira. After boarding, we were delayed two hours due to mechanical problems. They found us a working plane, and after deplaning and re-boarding from the tarmac, we arrived without incident.
The weather has been mild and sunny with daytime temperatures in the high 60’s and evening temperatures in the 50’s (Fahrenheit). We are staying at Hotel Palazzo in the Medina (walled city). The location is perfect for walking in the Medina and outside of it on the seaside. (Atlantic Ocean). The hotel’s claim to fame is that Orson Wells stayed here while filming Othello. The staff members speak English and French in addition to Arabic, Spanish and other European languages. They are very friendly and helpful; Fatima has booked reservations for us and suggested various activities, as well as recommending a local guide for walking tours and excursions.
Essaouira is small compared to Marrakech and Fez. The Medina is easy to navigate on our own and the vibe in town is chill and friendly. Small compared to Marrakech and Fez, Essaouira was once a thriving trade center, but because the harbor doesn’t accommodate huge vessels, the local economy is now limited to fishing and tourism. We are here for two weeks. The sites could easily be seen in a day or two; indeed many people come on day trips from Marrakech. Europeans come for long weekends to enjoy the sunbathing, surfing, shopping, and fabulous Moroccan cuisine. So far, we have only met two other Americans. We have enjoyed settling in and we have not been bored. We spend our days strolling the beach and the Medina, watching the kite surfers, wading in the Atlantic, taking photos, shopping a bit in the souks (shops) and cooperatives, stopping for a coffee or mint tea, and making discoveries around every corner.
Although Essaouira is very safe to explore on our own, we hired Achmed, a local guide to take us on a two-hour walk through the Medina. He speaks excellent English and taught us a lot about the history of Essaouira. We went to the House of Memory, (Bayt Dakira) which is a restored synagogue and museum dedicated to the history of peaceful coexistence between Muslims and Jews in Morocco. Sephardic Jews were welcomed to Morocco after the expulsion of all non-Christians from Spain in 1492. In the 18th century, Essaouira was the only town in Morocco with a majority Jewish population. Most of the Jewish population left Morocco after the formation of the State of Israel in 1948, due to Arab-Israeli conflicts. Achmed walked us through the remains of the former Jewish quarter and the Muslim quarter. He pointed out the various symbols above the doorway and on door knockers which would have indicated a Jewish (Star of David), Muslim (Crescent Moon) or Christian (Seashell) home.
PHOTOS BELOW FROM THE “HOUSE OF MEMORY”
PHOTOS BELOW OF DOORS IN THE MEDINA
Food is an art form in Morocco. Fresh ingredients and spices combine to form delicious dishes. The aroma of baking bread permeates the air. From the simplest cafe to an elegant restaurant you will enjoy quality cuisine at reasonable prices. We took a cooking class at l’Atelier and learned to make fish tagine. We have returned to their charming coffee shop several times.
On a Sunday morning, Achmed took us to the regional Sunday market. We enjoyed driving out into the countryside and seeing some of rural Morocco. The terrain is similar to that of the Arizona desert, with olive trees. Parcels of land are separated with low stone walls. Some areas have irrigated fields and greenhouses. Small herds of sheep can be seen from the road and donkeys line the highway. The donkeys are important pack animals and every rural family needs one.
The market was busy and crowded. There was a large livestock area where cows, sheep, goats, and donkeys were being sold. There were sections of spices, clothing, rope, tires, household goods, handicrafts, tools, etc.
After the chaos of the market, we enjoyed a peaceful walk in the country, followed by a stop at the Cooperative for Argan Oil, where we were shown the women at work and a hostess explained the process. We bought a few items in the shop. Unfortunately, we have to be aware of getting our purchases home.
Before returning to Essaouira, we ate lunch with our Achmed, our driver Abdul, and the woman who runs the roadside restaurant. Achmed had called ahead to order chicken tagine, which was served family style with delicious bread and followed by mint tea. Our day was a memorable experience!
Our time in Essaouira is drawing to a close. Despite the slow pace of life here, the time has passed very quickly. The people have been wonderfully welcoming, the weather perfect, the food amazing, the scenery stunning, and the shopping tempting. Yes, this place grows on you. Until next time….
Practical Matters:
- Moroccan Currency is the Dirham (MAD)- currently 10 MAD is 1 USD (100 dirhams is ten dollars)
- Accommodations are varied: the Medina has many restored buildings that are now small hotels, Riads (a former home with an interior garden), Dars ( a former home without the garden). Many of these are beautiful, historic, and charming. You can expect a clean, comfortable room and wonderful service. Do not expect modern amenities like elevators and fitness rooms. Many places have a spa, where you can access services like massage, facials, etc. We enjoyed massages for half the cost of a massage back home. If you want a more modern hotel experience, there are a number of large hotels just outside of the Medina with beach views. A few have swimming pools; unless stated the water will not be heated. Some hotels offer day passes to their facilities. We spent two lovely days at Villa Beldi. For 300 MAD, we enjoyed an afternoon at their heated pool and gorgeous gardens.It was a 30 MAD taxi ride to get out there. We had lunch in the garden. The food was excellent and the bill far less than a comparable meal in the States.
- Morocco is not a drinking culture. That said, cocktails and wine are available in the places that cater to tourists: hotel bars and fine-dining restaurants.
Note: My references to businesses are based on our own experiences; I am independent and unpaid. Thank you for reading! Happy travels. Geri
Next Adventure: Sicily
Adventures In The South of Spain 
Gre
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