The Rock – Adventures In The South of Spain

March 23, 2024

On a clear day in Estepona the rocky outline of Gibraltar is visible from the beach. On a very clear day, one can see the shores of Africa and the line of ships waiting to pass through the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a sight I never tire of!

There is an Avanza bus everyday at 10:00 am from Estepona to La Línea (the line) for a price of about 6 euros. The trip is non-stop and takes 45 minutes. Of course if you have a car, you can drive there on good highways. I don’t know what the parking situation is like.

Bill and I and our friend Liz went on a Saturday. It was our second time there and Liz’ first. If you are in the Costa del Sol, you should go. It is an experience! After arrival at the bus station in La Línea, you walk toward ” the rock” to the Passport control building at the border. Don’t expect any signs pointing you there. Spain does its best to ignore that chunk of Britain sitting on their shores.

You will go through Spanish Border Control first and then British; the reverse on your way back. Upon exiting the building, follow the crowd to St. Christopher’s Gate where you wait for the green light to cross the runway. Yes, runway. The entrance to Gibraltar is on the other side of the airport. If a flight is taking off or landing, you will wait until it has finished, and then walk across the runway. You are expected to keep moving, but most people can’t resist taking a selfie of this unique experience.

Once you have crossed, there will be taxis and tour buses hoping for your business. We chose to walk into the village first. It is a bit of a walk and not really marked, so just follow the other walkers. Eventually you will arrive at the landport and once you walk through that, you emerge into the village square of Gibraltar. You are in Britain now with English pubs touting pints and fish and chips, English menus and English speakers. However, the restaurants in the square also serve good Spanish coffee and breakfast choices to please both sides of the border. We took a nice coffee break at an outdoor table and then strolled through town. Shops line both sides of the street selling jewelry, liquor, Cuban cigars, tobacco products, candy, perfumes, souvenirs, t-shirts, etc. It reminds me of the duty free shops at Heathrow Airport, only outside. There was even a parade through town, complete with bagpipers.

After enjoying the lively Saturday street life for a while, we signed up for a small group van tour. Our guide was Mohammed (Mo), a delightful young man of Moroccan heritage, born and raised in Gibraltar. He plays professional basketball for a local club and gives tours in his free time. We went to five locations that would have been very difficult to do on our own. While driving from place to place, he entertained us with stories and historical information, and patiently answered our constant questions. We shared the tour with a very nice couple from Wales who were there on a cruise. Our highlights included The Pillars of Hercules, Saint Michael’s Cave, The Tunnels in the Rock, The Skywalk, and the Nature Reserve.

The Nature Reserve is home to the Barbary Macaques, sometimes referred to as the Barbary Apes, but they are not monkeys. The macaques are protected and fed by the reserve rangers. Tourists should not touch them or feed them, but they are very comfortable with people and will pose for pictures. They will also attempt to enter vehicles, steal food and water bottles, phones, eyeglasses, etc.

The Pillars of Hercules and the Skywalk offer panoramic views of the Straits and the Port of Gibraltar far below. Unfortunately, we were there on a cloudy day, so the vista was foggy, but still awe-inspiring. Large container ships are lined up to pass through the strait.

St Michael’s Cave is a natural cave within the Rock of Gibraltar. It was once believed to be the entrance to hell at the edge of the known world. Today it welcomes tourists with light shows on the rocks and occasional concerts in the natural amphitheatre.

The tunnels were built during World War II to house supplies and soldiers, and to shoot canons from narrow openings blasted from the rock.