Tag: Gibraltar

Gibraltar

March 23, 2024

On a clear day in Estepona the rocky outline of Gibraltar is visible from the beach. On a very clear day, one can see the shores of Africa and the line of ships waiting to pass through the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a sight I never tire of!

There is an Avanza bus everyday at 10:00 am from Estepona to La Línea (the line) for a price of about 6 euros. The trip is non-stop and takes 45 minutes. Of course if you have a car, you can drive there on good highways. I don’t know what the parking situation is like.

Bill and I and our friend Liz went on a Saturday. It was our second time there and Liz’ first. If you are in the Costa del Sol, you should go. It is an experience! After arrival at the bus station in La Línea, you walk toward ” the rock” to the Passport control building at the border. Don’t expect any signs pointing you there. Spain does its best to ignore that chunk of Britain sitting on their shores.

You will go through Spanish Border Control first and then British; the reverse on your way back. Upon exiting the building, follow the crowd to St. Christopher’s Gate where you wait for the green light to cross the runway. Yes, runway. The entrance to Gibraltar is on the other side of the airport. If a flight is taking off or landing, you will wait until it has finished, and then walk across the runway. You are expected to keep moving, but most people can’t resist taking a selfie of this unique experience.

Once you have crossed, there will be taxis and tour buses hoping for your business. We chose to walk into the village first. It is a bit of a walk and not really marked, so just follow the other walkers. Eventually you will arrive at the landport and once you walk through that, you emerge into the village square of Gibraltar. You are in Britain now with English pubs touting pints and fish and chips, English menus and English speakers. However, the restaurants in the square also serve good Spanish coffee and breakfast choices to please both sides of the border. We took a nice coffee break at an outdoor table and then strolled through town. Shops line both sides of the street selling jewelry, liquor, Cuban cigars, tobacco products, candy, perfumes, souvenirs, t-shirts, etc. It reminds me of the duty free shops at Heathrow Airport, only outside. There was even a parade through town, complete with bagpipers.

After enjoying the lively Saturday street life for a while, we signed up for a small group van tour. Our guide was Mohammed (Mo), a delightful young man of Moroccan heritage, born and raised in Gibraltar. He plays professional basketball for a local club and gives tours in his free time. We went to five locations that would have been very difficult to do on our own. While driving from place to place, he entertained us with stories and historical information, and patiently answered our constant questions. We shared the tour with a very nice couple from Wales who were there on a cruise. Our highlights included The Pillars of Hercules, Saint Michael’s Cave, The Tunnels in the Rock, The Skywalk, and the Nature Reserve.

The Nature Reserve is home to the Barbary Macaques, sometimes referred to as the Barbary Apes, but they are not monkeys. The macaques are protected and fed by the reserve rangers. Tourists should not touch them or feed them, but they are very comfortable with people and will pose for pictures. They will also attempt to enter vehicles, steal food and water bottles, phones, eyeglasses, etc.

The Pillars of Hercules and the Skywalk offer panoramic views of the Straits and the Port of Gibraltar far below. Unfortunately, we were there on a cloudy day, so the vista was foggy, but still awe-inspiring. Large container ships are lined up to pass through the strait.

St Michael’s Cave is a natural cave within the Rock of Gibraltar. It was once believed to be the entrance to hell at the edge of the known world. Today it welcomes tourists with light shows on the rocks and occasional concerts in the natural amphitheatre.

The tunnels were built during World War II to house supplies and soldiers, and to shoot canons from narrow openings blasted from the rock.

The Landport Entrance
( footbridge)
Gibraltar Village
The Town Square
A Young Entertainer

Gibraltar Village on a Saturday

Mindful Macaque
The Rock

Mo and friend
Me, Macaque, Liz

Caves and Tunnels

Image of the Archangel
Cave Ampitheatre
The Tunnels

A day trip to Gibraltar is a unique and worthwhile experience. It is unique! Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next Post: Ronda

Estepona: Charming Streets, Beaches, and Public Art (February 2022)

This is our third stay in Estepona. We learned about it from a British couple we chatted with in San Francisco back in 2016. In 2019, we stayed here for two weeks. In 2020, for three weeks. In 2021, we didn’t travel (COVID). Now, in 2022, we are here for the entire month of February.

Views From Our Balcony on Avenida España

The sun rises over the Mediterranean and on a clear day you can see Gibraltar.

We have been fortunate each time to find an apartment in our budget with the above views. I’m not sure how much longer that will be the case, as this town is undergoing a “great renovation”. We have observed big changes in the time we have been coming here.

The mayor, José María García Urbano, is ” a man with a plan”. He began with a 10 year proposal in 2011 and the work continues. His goals included: ending corruption, reducing municipal debt, renovating the crumbling historical center, building a sports complex and auditorium, attracting businesses willing to invest in the community, creating large pedestrian areas, promoting public art, public parks, and public gardens; all with the goal of attracting tourism to increase quality employment and improve public health. In short, to turn this small fishing village into the “Garden of the Costa del Sol,” while maintaining its small town charm and ensuring a good life for the local residents.

Public works are in evidence everywhere. Underground garages are being added to get more cars off the streets. The historic district is almost completely pedestrian with shops, bars, and restaurants. Flowers are planted and groomed by village employees, the sand on all the beaches is groomed daily, the boardwalk is washed every morning, the “senda litoral” (sea path) has been extended in both directions for hiking and biking. Eventually it will go all the way to Marbella. We have biked 7 miles in one direction before running out of path.

Public Parks and Public Works

Sea Path
Bird of Paradise
Gardeners on the Paseo

So, life is good for the tourists, but is this all too good to be true? Will people get priced out of their neighborhoods with all of the luxury buildings going up? We have seen an occasional homeless person sleeping in the park, although far fewer than in other places. There is a planned complex of 100 affordable housing units. Contractors that wish to build here are required to contribute to the public fund for green spaces and community centers. Taxes have been significantly reduced and the inherited debt from previous administrations is almost gone. There is a screen in the rotunda with the “debt graph.” Sustainability is also a goal, so if solar panels are feasible for your dwelling, city hall pays for them. Oh, by the way, the mayor doesn’t accept a salary for the job.

The Charming Streets of Old Town Estepona

Señora del Carmen Church

Murals on Buildings

The Orchidarium

A Few of Our Favorite Places

El Pescador for Valentine’s
Catch of the Day at Pescador
Lunch Stop on Bike Route (Como Un Pez en el Agua)
Robbie’s (Sadly,Shuttered )
La Buena Vida
(Mojitos at Sunset)
Where the Senda Ends
Bike Route Turnaround

Public Sculpture

It’s A Dog
Tribute to the Laborer and the Fisherman
Sculpture Park

More Ways to Enjoy Estepona

Chess on the Sea Walk
Rent a Bike from Costa Bikes
Flea Market at the Bullring
Museum of Modern Art
Fisherman Cottages
Escolleres (Really fresh fish!)
Paddle boarding in the shadow of Gibraltar

Can you tell, I’m a big fan of this town? We love the weather! There has been sunshine almost every day, but even a cloudy day here is pretty nice. Daytime temperatures are in the 60’s and cooler at night, perfect for walking and biking. There are also great golf courses here if you like golf.

We have been swimming regularly at the indoor 25 meter pool and taking long walks along the sea path. On the beach, I look for sea glass and we have dipped our toes in The Mediterranean, but it’s still a bit chilly to plunge in. We have been making the rounds of our favorite bars and restaurants, and discovering new ones. We made friends with an Irish couple and have enjoyed a couple social dates with them. Our stay here ends March 1st. Then “adventures in the south of Spain” is heading north to San Sebastián. Stay tuned!

Thank you for reading. My reviews are purely based on our personal experience. I am unpaid for my opinions. I take my own photos and write my own content.

Geri