Estepona – Adventures In The South of Spain

February 1- April 1

This place is so great I hesitate to promote it! But now that “The Bachelor” has filmed here, I guess the secret is out.

This is our fifth winter stay in Estepona. We were here for two weeks back in 2018 and we have returned each year, except for the Pandemic year in 2021. Each time, we have stayed longer than the year before. Last year, we spent the month of March, the year before that, the month of February. This time, February and March. Two months has allowed us to really settle in and establish some routines and a relaxed pace to life. In other words, enjoying retirement while living like a local.

Because we know this town, when I found this year’s apartment listing, I knew it was a great spot at a good price and I booked it for two months. We don’t rent a car, so we need a location that is walkable to the beach, restaurants, groceries, etc. This has been perfect! I never tire of seeing the sunrise on the Mediterranean from our front balcony.

We joined the local health club (Supera) and we swim laps there three mornings a week. It is a mile walk to get there with a steep hill at the end, so overall it’s a good workout. Because we are now regulars at the pool, the local swimmers greet us and we feel accepted.

We go to yoga class with Nettie (http://www.nirmalayogaspain.com) two mornings a week. The class is outdoors on a beautiful stretch of grass along the shore. The palm trees sway above us, the water sparkles in the sunlight, and on clear days we have a fabulous view of Gibraltar and the shores of Morocco. One day, a couple of dolphins swam past. Nettie is a wonderful instructor and a beautiful person. After class, we have coffee with our yoga friends.

We have met a friendly group of expats who reside here in Estepona full time. They have welcomed us into their group and we get together to play games and share meals, drinks and a lot of laughs. It is a true blessing to make new friends at this stage of life and to enjoy this wonderful place with them.

Our friend Liz came over from Chicago this month and we have been enjoying showing her around Spain. We have toured Madrid, Estepona, Ronda, Gibraltar, and La Línea. This post focuses on Estepona, so I’ll cover the other spots separately. Liz’s enthusiasm for everything is contagious, and Bill and I have loved having her company on our adventures,

Below: Some views of the water and the Sierra Bermeja.

Views From El Mirador (The Lookout)

The Mirador had its Grand Opening the night before we left town last year. It is a beautiful addition to Estepona. An elevator ride to the 360 degree view on 10th floor costs one euro. The Art Gallery on first level is a beautiful space. Currently, they have a Goya exhibit featuring 85 of his etchings themed “The Disasters of War.” While not a happy subject, it is quite timely and important. We visited twice for an entrance fee of three euros and we had the gallery to ourselves both times.

Shots Taken on a Sunday Stroll

**Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios**

A Day Trip to Casares

Casares is a small village in the mountains about a 45 minute drive from Estepona. We don’t drive abroad, so we took a taxi to visit Casares and the Dolmenes de Corominas (see below). Casares is one of the Pueblos Blancos (White Villages) of Andalucía. Like much of southern Spain it was inhabited by Phoenicians thousands of years ago, was later settled by the Romans, and later captured by Muslims. Remains of the 12th century Muslim castle can be visited today. In the 15th century, it was recaptured by the Christians. Casares is the birthplace of Blas Infante, an important 19th century writer and politician. There were very few visitors on the day we were there.We enjoyed walking through the scenic narrow streets on the steep uphill climb to the cemetery and castle ruins at the top of the hill. Huge birds of prey soar above the trees amid the spectacular views. We enjoyed a coffee with the town residents down in the square before meeting our taxi to the Dolmenes de Corominas for the 12:00 pm tour.

Dolmenes de Corominas

This archeological site and museum is less than a half hour outside Estepona. Call ahead to book your visit, otherwise you may find yourself outside of a locked museum. The information on the website is not reliable. However it is worth a visit to experience a 5,000 year old burial site. The tombs were discovered in 2001 during the construction of a highway. The Dolmenes (tombs) were moved and recreated at the current location. Archeologists continue to study this prehistoric find. Our guide was very knowledgeable and gave us a thorough tour, sharing his immense knowledge and enthusiasm.

Above: Photos of Many Happy Outings and Scrumptious Meals with Liz in Estepona

Below: Thank you Paul for taking us on a drive to La Línea for lunch at Tip Top. (Michelin quality cuisine at reasonable prices)

Easter is early this year, so we were in Estepona for Holy Week (Semana Santa). We were able to witness the Holy Thursday procession from the Chapel of the Virgen del Carmen through the streets of Estepona. Semana Santa processions have taken place all over Spain since the middle ages, especially in traditional Andalucía. The hooded figures have a creepiness to them due to their similarity to Ku Klux Klan. However, their historical significance was to allow anonymity to those taking a pilgrimage of atonement. Religious traditions are part of the culture of Spain.

The Orchidarium is a conservatory of orchids and research center in Estepona. For a few euros and an hour of your time, you can enjoy seeing amazing blooms in a beautiful setting.

Our winter in Spain is winding down. We have one last celebratory dinner tonight at The Boab Tree. It is raining today, which makes this a good day to catch up on blogging and to begin the process of packing up from a three month journey. A few of my clothing items won’t make the return trip; I will donate them here. It has been a great adventure, but it will be good to get home.

Thank you for following my blog! I would love to hear from you. Happy travels.

My recommendations are based solely on my own experience. I am independent and unpaid. Geri

This is our third stay in Estepona. We learned about it from a British couple we chatted with in San Francisco back in 2016. In 2019, we stayed here for two weeks. In 2020, for three weeks. In 2021, we didn’t travel (COVID). Now, in 2022, we are here for the entire month of February.

Views From Our Balcony on Avenida España

The sun rises over the Mediterranean and on a clear day you can see Gibraltar.

We have been fortunate each time to find an apartment in our budget with the above views. I’m not sure how much longer that will be the case, as this town is undergoing a “great renovation”. We have observed big changes in the time we have been coming here.

The mayor, José María García Urbano, is ” a man with a plan”. He began with a 10 year proposal in 2011 and the work continues. His goals included: ending corruption, reducing municipal debt, renovating the crumbling historical center, building a sports complex and auditorium, attracting businesses willing to invest in the community, creating large pedestrian areas, promoting public art, public parks, and public gardens; all with the goal of attracting tourism to increase quality employment and improve public health. In short, to turn this small fishing village into the “Garden of the Costa del Sol,” while maintaining its small town charm and ensuring a good life for the local residents.

Public works are in evidence everywhere. Underground garages are being added to get more cars off the streets. The historic district is almost completely pedestrian with shops, bars, and restaurants. Flowers are planted and groomed by village employees, the sand on all the beaches is groomed daily, the boardwalk is washed every morning, the “senda litoral” (sea path) has been extended in both directions for hiking and biking. Eventually it will go all the way to Marbella. We have biked 7 miles in one direction before running out of path.

Public Parks and Public Works

So, life is good for the tourists, but is this all too good to be true? Will people get priced out of their neighborhoods with all of the luxury buildings going up? We have seen an occasional homeless person sleeping in the park, although far fewer than in other places. There is a planned complex of 100 affordable housing units. Contractors that wish to build here are required to contribute to the public fund for green spaces and community centers. Taxes have been significantly reduced and the inherited debt from previous administrations is almost gone. There is a screen in the rotunda with the “debt graph.” Sustainability is also a goal, so if solar panels are feasible for your dwelling, city hall pays for them. Oh, by the way, the mayor doesn’t accept a salary for the job.

The Charming Streets of Old Town Estepona

Murals on Buildings

The Orchidarium

A Few of Our Favorite Places

Public Sculpture

**Tribute to the Laborer and the Fisherman**

More Ways to Enjoy Estepona

**Paddle boarding** in the shadow of Gibraltar

Can you tell, I’m a big fan of this town? We love the weather! There has been sunshine almost every day, but even a cloudy day here is pretty nice. Daytime temperatures are in the 60’s and cooler at night, perfect for walking and biking. There are also great golf courses here if you like golf.

We have been swimming regularly at the indoor 25 meter pool and taking long walks along the sea path. On the beach, I look for sea glass and we have dipped our toes in The Mediterranean, but it’s still a bit chilly to plunge in. We have been making the rounds of our favorite bars and restaurants, and discovering new ones. We made friends with an Irish couple and have enjoyed a couple social dates with them. Our stay here ends March 1st. Then “adventures in the south of Spain” is heading north to San Sebastián. Stay tuned!

Thank you for reading. My reviews are purely based on our personal experience. I am unpaid for my opinions. I take my own photos and write my own content.

Geri

Tag: Estepona

Estepona 2024

Estepona: Charming Streets, Beaches, and Public Art (February 2022)