Geri Magnuson

Liverpool and York (August 2024)

From Bath, we took the train to Liverpool for a one-night stay at The Crowne Plaza Hotel in the city center. We arrived early in the day, dropped our bags and went exploring on foot. The main draw for visitors is the large sculpture of The Beatles. You can’t miss it! The Albert Dock area is attractive and there are plenty of establishments for grabbing food and drink on your way to The Maritime Museum or The Beatle‘s Story. We went to the Beatles Story on our first afternoon and found it to be a fun walk through Beatle’s history with replicas of The Casbah, The Cavern Club, Abbey Road Studios, The Magical Mystery Tour Bus, Eleanor Rigby’s grave, the plane that brought The Beatles to New York…… and enough memorabilia to please the avid Beatle’s fan.

We happened to be in Liverpool on our 45th wedding anniversary. It seemed pretty significant to celebrate in the birthplace of the Beatles. We splurged on an elegant dinner at Gaucho Argentine Steakhouse.

The next morning, we took The Magical Mystery Tour. It is popular, so get your tickets early. The tour bus was decked out to fit the theme. Beatles music played throughout the tour often with the visitors singing along. Our guide was friendly and informative. He is a musician himself and while younger than Paul McCartney, he grew up near him and knew the family. The tour took us to all of the sites mentioned in Beatle’s songs and past their childhood homes. In some places, we had to stay on the bus, while at other places we could stop for photo ops. It was a tour well-worth taking, because we never could have found all those places on our own. Liverpool is a large city. It is a thriving business center with more to offer than Beatle’s memories, but we were there for the Beatle’s and we were not disappointed.

After our tour, we went back to the hotel to pick up our bags and get a taxi to the station for our train to York. The hotel staff was wonderful and the hotel had a nice indoor swimming pool. Unfortunately, we had not packed suits for this trip.

York, England

It was a pleasant two hour train ride from Liverpool to York. We spent two nights in York at the York Hilton, directly across the street from Clifford’s Tower. The surrounding neighborhood is a little quieter than the city center, but it is only a ten minute walk to the center. A walk in York is a walk through medieval and Georgian England. Cozy tea rooms and historic pubs are steps from contemporary wine bars and bustling restaurants. We enjoyed Pairings Wine Bar, Rustique, and L’Ostria.

We took a morning walking tour which helped orient us to York’s history and attractions. York Minster was built in the 13th century and the Shambles, York’s medieval butcher and market area is remarkably well-preserved. There is a “Harry Potter” feel to the shop district and it is said to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley.

York is definitely worth a stop on your UK tour! There is plenty to do for a couple of days or you can just kick back and enjoy some live music and good food in an historic setting.

Next: Edinburgh

Bath and Beyond (August 2024)

We took the train from London to Bath for a three-night stay in this charming town that is an almost perfectly preserved example of Georgian architecture. The train ride from Paddington Station to Bath takes 1 1/2 hours and costs about $80 per ticket. The train was comfortable and our fellow passengers were enthusiastic travelers and locals.

We stayed at Oldfields’ Bed and Breakfast, a charming house up on the hill above town. The room was comfortable, the staff friendly and breakfast was very good. Most visitors come by car, so the parking lot is a plus. We did not have a car and and it was a bit of a walk into town and uphill all the way back so we used taxis or Ubers.

We took a Bridgerton Walking Tour with Paul Elliot (available on Trip Advisor). He was both informative and fun. On this tour you will see the major sites in Bath along with on location sites from the filming of the Bridgerton series. (Netflix)

A walking tour is a perfect introduction to Bath. Once you have an overview of the town, you can return to the sites you which to visit. We visited The Roman Baths, Bath Abbey, and the Jane Austen Centre. I highly recommend all three. Reserve your tickets ahead for the popular Roman Baths. We were able to walk into the Jane Austen Centre, but it is housed in a Georgian house that can get crowded rather quickly. I wasn’t able to browse the gift shop as I would have liked, because it also serves as the ticket office and there was a large group checking in. We did not go to the Tea Rooms upstairs, but you might want to reserve a table for the full experience.

We spent three nights in Bath. Many tourists visit on a day trip from London, but we are slower travelers and Bath has a lot to offer. We had time to enjoy lunch at Bath’s oldest pub : The Saracens Head. Bath has a number of good restaurants to explore and enjoy.

From Bath, we took a half-day small bus tour to Stonehenge, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is only an hour away, so if you have a car you can go on your own. Our driver pointed out a few points of interest along the way, but once we arrived we toured on our own. Admission includes an excellent audio-tour. Visitors are only allowed inside the stone circle on certain days (solstice) on approved tours. If you follow the perimeter path you get good views of the structures from various sides and learn valuable facts about Stonehenge from the audio narration. All along the route are printed signs pointing out certain features and discoveries; there are even “selfie stops”. Carbon dating pinpoints Stonehenge around 3100 BC and human remains indicate that it may have been a Neolithic burial ground. The type of stone is found in northern Scotland, a considerable distance from the site. Archeologists continue to study and wonder about its origins.

Next Stop: Liverpool

Note: Any mention of commercial ventures is purely based on my own experience. I am independent and unpaid.

London (August 9-14, 2024)

“Adventures In The South” Crosses The Channel to the United Kingdom

On August 9th, we packed up and said “Au Revoir” to Paris. The Cooks were headed to Wisconsin and Christine to Texas. Bill and I were extending our travels by taking The Eurostar from Paris to London. We taxied from our flat in Sainte Germaine to Gare du Nord. The security lines were long, because a train to the UK is international travel.

Once we boarded the train it was a comfortable two and a half hour trip. I was enjoying the view of the French countryside, when we entered a dark tunnel and it took me a few moments to realize we were under the English Channel. I purposefully didn’t linger on that thought and in about 20 minutes we were enjoying the English countryside until arrival in London’s St. Pancras International terminal. From there we took the tube to Tower Hill Station. Our hotel ( Tower Suites) was a two minute walk from the tube. Our room was comfortable and the buffet breakfast was good. We were literally across the road from the Tower of London and the Tower Bridge. The neighborhood has ample pubs, restaurants, and shops.

We arrived too early to check in, but we checked our luggage at the desk and walked to the nearest pub The Minories and enjoyed a burger and a beer. The pub system is efficient: pick a table, decide what you want from the menu, order at the bar, give the bartender your table number, pay your bill, carry your own drinks to the table and your food will be delivered. After lunch, our bartender filled our water bottles with ice water and we were off to tour The Tower.

The Tower of London is not just one tower, but a huge complex of buildings. The entrance fee includes an audio guide and entrance to all buildings in the complex. Beefeater Guards give free guided tours of the outdoor premises every forty-five minutes. The most popular attraction is The Crown Jewels which are well-worth seeing. We waited less than ten minutes in line to enter, although it can get quite busy. No photos are allowed inside.

After spending a couple of hours within the Tower of London walls, we walked back to our hotel and checked in. We unpacked, rested a bit, then headed out for our first dinner in London at Brigade Bar and Kitchen. The Brigade is casual and friendly with great food and drink at fair prices. The Tower Bridge neighborhood was alive with locals and visitors enjoying a warm London evening.

**Partying on the Shores of the Thames**

The next day was Saturday and a great opportunity to explore The Portabello Road Market, a combination farmers’ market, fresh bakery, international cuisine food trucks, and rummage sale with stalls that sell vintage clothing, bags, vinyl albums, art, souvenirs, flowers, household items, and more. It makes for great people watching and a way to experience a London neighborhood.

After Portabello Road, we were off to Abbey Road to cross the iconic crosswalk pictured on the Beatle’s “Abbey Road” album. You’ll know when you’re there, because there will be a lot of tourists waiting to do the same thing. Everyone we met was giddy with the experience and cheerfully offering to take each other’s photo. The studios are not open to the public, but the walkway to the gift shop displays a timeline of all the music produced there. The gift shop sells something to tempt every Beatle’s fan.

From Abbey Road, we caught the bus to Baker Street, home of the fictional Sherlock Holmes. There is a Sherlock Holmes Museum, but we skipped it in favor of lunch and a siesta before our evening plans. Lunch was at Alsop Arms, a “typical” neighborhood pub for Saturday soccer fans.

We kicked off our Saturday night in London with a cocktail at the American Bar in the Savoy Hotel. One of my favorite things when traveling is to have a drink in the lounge of the city’s most historic or elegant hotel. The rooms are out of our budget, but the bar isn’t.

We had dinner at The Ivy in Covent Gardens. The food was excellent and they feature some classic British dishes among the options. Prices were moderate by London standards. In general, we found restaurant meals in the UK to be pricey.

Next, we went to a performance of “Tina” at the Aldwych Theatre. It was a wonderful show and I highly recommend seeing it.

The next day (Sunday), we had booked a three-hour walking tour which included the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace, the outside of Parliament, Big Ben, Trafalgar Square, etc. Unfortunately, it was the hottest day of the year in London with temperatures in the 90’s. While waiting in direct sun for the guard to change, I realized I would not make it through the remainder of the tour. We excused ourselves from the group and headed for the shade. While recovering in a shady spot, we saw the fresh guardsmen marching to the palace. We did not return to the tour, but managed to see most of the sights later in the day from the “relative” comfort of the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus.

Dinner that night was at Oblix West in the Shard. The food, wine list, and service were excellent, but pricey. If you want a splurge meal in London, it is worth it. The view is spectacular and you will want to time it so you are there at sunset. An alternative to splurging at Oblix West is to have a drink in the lounge of Oblix East, which has a great view in the other direction.

Our next day was devoted to touring St. Paul’s Cathedral in the morning and Westminster Abbey in the afternoon. Both are well worth visiting. Admission includes a free audio guide that allows you to go at your own pace. Both churches are iconic and an integral part of British history. Charles and Diana were married at St. Paul’s, even though Westminster Abbey is the official church of the monarchy and the site of coronations and state funerals. So many famous people are buried there that it is a stroll through political, cultural, and literary history. Poets’ Corner is especially interesting.

Our last day in London began with a morning tour inside of Buckingham Palace and the Royal Gardens. It is a privilege to be in London between June and September when the palace is open for public tours. Advance tickets with an entry time are a must. Admission includes the excellent self-paced audio tour. Photos are prohibited inside the palace, but souvenir photo books are available for purchase. We enjoyed coffee and sandwiches in the palace cafe which has reasonable prices and a beautiful view of the back lawn where spring garden parties are held. After lunch we took a small group guided tour of the gardens. Again no photos were permitted as this is the royal family’s outdoor space. Our guide shared that sometimes King Charles can be spotted doing a bit of planting. There were no royal sightings on our walk, but we were glad we had reserved a ticket for the tour.

We attempted to take an Uber boat ride on the Thames, but all were full on a warm August afternoon. We popped into Harrod’s Department Store and found it to be disappointing. Then it was back to our hotel to pack up for a train to Bath in the morning. We walked to Bermondsey Square in the evening to have dinner where the locals go.

Our stay in London was a delight. There is so much to see and do that you have to prioritize. We travel at a slower pace than many others do. Our focus was on the famous monuments and royal sights, so we did not have time for London’s many great museums. Next time!

Practical Matters

The United Kingdom’s currency is the pound sterling (equals 1.26 US dollars as of December 2024)
The “tube” and bus system are excellent. You can buy the “Oyster” card at train stations. We found it more convenient to use APPLE Pay or GOOGLE Pay directly from our phone. Each passenger must have their own device.
Taxis and Ubers are plentiful
Boots Pharmacy is widely available and carries everything you might need at prices that will surprise you.

Next Up: Bath, Stonehenge, York, Edinburgh

PARIS 2024

Part Two: Nine Days of Sports and Sites in the City of Lights

After our three days in Nantes, we took the train back to Paris for our nine night stay in a large apartment in Saint Germain Des Prés. The apartment was lovely and spacious and in a perfect location. There was a cafe right downstairs, we could walk to countless bistros and to two different metro stations. As soon as we checked in and settled our gear, we walked down the boulevard to Les Deux Magots. It is an historic Paris cafe once frequented by Ernest Hemmingway. If you have followed my blog before, you may have noticed a number of Hemmingway references. We didn’t set out to do a Hemmingway pilgrimage, but he keeps showing up! Wherever he lived, he enjoyed the cafe culture. (See Pamplona, Ronda, and Dancing in Havana posts)

In Paris, a lot of places can claim that famous writers, artists, musicians, actors, etc. ate and drank there. Yet these provincial establishments retain their local charm and do not exploit their guests by price gauging or serving substandard fare. They value their reputation.

Another Paris icon that does not disappoint is Cafe Angelina. We enjoyed a delicious brunch there and the menu had something for everyone. I recommend making reservations in advance.

Planning ahead is crucial when traveling with a group of nine, including children. We prioritized our time based on the availability of tickets to the Olympic Games. We downloaded the Paris 2024 Apps for tickets and transport. We were alerted when tickets were released and then we would get on the website. Usually, there was a limit of four or five tickets to an event. We put the information on the “Paris 2024 Family Calendar” and we signed up for our preferences. The adults shared “kid duty,” so that all of the adults had an opportunity for a special night out. The system really worked well.

We enjoyed a nice balance of sporting events, museums, shopping, dining, and relaxing at “home” playing cards and watching the Olympics on TV. Everyone had an opportunity to suggest an outing and for the most part all desires were met.

The city of Paris hosted a fantastic Olympics. The intent was to integrate sports into Paris’ iconic settings and bring the Olympics to the people. The parks of Paris became sporting venues, the streets were race routes for running and cycling, swimmers swam in the Seine and international fans were everywhere. The vibe was friendly and fun!

We felt completely safe and welcomed. Transportation to the venues was efficient and easy. Most sites were an easy walk from the subway. A multitude of volunteers moved spectators quickly through security and into their seats. Bathrooms were clean and plentiful. Fans filled the stands and the volunteers could attend events by flashing their volunteer credentials.

We attended sessions of volleyball, badminton, wrestling, beach volleyball, table tennis, swimming, and water polo. The athletes were amazing: the best in the world in their sport.

Bill and I enjoyed a special night at the Swimming Finals with our daughter Christine, a double silver medalist in swimming in Beijing 2008. We wore our USA shirts and saw Katie Ledecky win the gold medal in the 800m Freestyle and the US mixed medley relay break a world record. But for us, the best part was sharing the experience with Christine. who chatted with the American family next to us and eventually revealed to them who she was. At the end of the meet she asked, “Would you like to see my medal?” She reached into her purse and to everyone’s shock and delight pulled out a silver medal wrapped in a sock!

We all enjoyed a guided tour of the Louvre. Our guide was knowledgeable and fun and although the tour lasted almost four hours, it didn’t feel like it. The kids held up great and so did the Grandpas! Other popular outings included the Orsay, the Orangerie, Napoleon’s Tomb, a Seine River Cruise, and a day in Montmartre.

Some of the adults took a cooking class that included shopping in the market, making a meal, and then enjoying it with French wine. A group of us ladies shopped at Galeries LaFayette and made a stop at the USA House where Christine had full access.

John wanted to experience The Moulin Rouge, so six of us signed on for an evening there. Christine volunteered to do a movie and pizza night with the kids. The Moulin Rouge is for tourists these days, but the dinner was decent and the show was marvelous. Good idea John!

We celebrated my 69th birthday and our final night in Paris with dinner at a French-Japanese fusion restaurant. We couldn’t believe our time was over, but we all agreed it was a great trip! Thank you Jackie for your vision! And thank you Paris for the great memories!

**Garden Dinner** at
Monsieur Bleu with Christine

Next Post: Geri and Bill cross the Channel and Visit the UK.

Note: My recommendations are based solely on my own experiences. I am independent and unpaid.

Paris 2024

Adventures In the South of Spain Goes North to France!

First Stop : Nantes (July 29-August 1)

**Kicking It Off With a Soccer Match in Nantes**

When Paris announced they would host the 2024 Summer Olympics, our daughter Jackie proclaimed “We should all go!” To be honest, we didn’t take her too seriously until about a year ago when she insisted it was time to start planning in earnest. To put things in context: in 2008, our daughter Christine competed in the Beijing Games and earned two silver medals in swimming. Jackie, Bill, and I traveled to China to cheer her on.

This trip was our first return to the Olympics; this time with Christine as a spectator. We were joined by Jackie’s husband Greg and their two children, and Greg’s parents. Some members of our group were visiting Paris for the first time and others were returning. It was my third time to the “City of Lights.” To combine the beauty of Paris with the Olympic Games was too tempting to pass up.

In the fall of 2023, the Paris 2024 Family Calendar was born. Nine of us committed to the August 2024 trip. We got busy booking lodging, buying train tickets, buying tickets to events, making dinner reservations, booking day tours, reserving museum entries, and reading guide books. We planned to meet in Paris on July 29th and board a train for Nantes on the Loire River for a three-night stay and a soccer game.

We strategically packed our carry-on bags for a month of travel, as Bill and I were heading to the UK from our Paris adventure. After overnight flights from Chicago, Austin, and Milwaukee, the nine of us met in the regional train terminal at Charles de Gaulle Airport. Lattes and croissants all around!

The high-speed train trip to Nantes was comfortable and and we passed the time reading, snacking, and dozing. The highlight was when our granddaughter lost a tooth! The low point was when John and Jan’s duffle bag was stolen from the luggage rack. They were determined not to let that dampen our fun, so they approached their loss as an opportunity to purchase some French fashion and to utilize the French health care system. John learned that American bodies don’t fit well in skinny French pants and that he could save a lot of money on his medications in the French pharmacy. Jan looked fabulous in her new clothes!

Nantes is France’s third largest city, but it has a small town feel. The city center is charming and walkable. You can follow the 7.5 mile Green Line through town, past architectural highlights and public art installations, or you can ride the free trolley. Taxis and Ubers are plentiful and there is a tram, which we rode to the soccer stadium. Adults can enjoy nearby vineyard tours, but we chose to spend our free day visiting the kid-friendly Les Machines de I’lle. We rode the three-story carousel made of steel creatures a la Jules Vernes’ Twenty Thousand leagues Under the Sea. After that, we observed “the mechanical elephant” but declined to spend the waiting time to ride it. The kids preferred a stop in the gift shop and then it was on to lunch at a riverside restaurant.

On Wednesday, July 31, the nine of us took the tram to the Nantes soccer stadium to see the Nigerian Women battle the Japanese Women for our first Paris 2024 event. Even at 5pm, the sun was intense and the temperature about 37 degrees Celsius (close to 100 F) . When we spotted empty seats in the shaded section, we moved! We drank plenty of water and ate some salty snacks to keep us from dehydration. The game was exciting, the Japanese prevailed 4-1. After the game, we boarded the tram for the ride back to town and some refreshing gelato at Amorino.

Our stay in Nantes gave us a chance to recover from overseas travel and adjust to the time zone before our stay in Paris. We were unprepared for the extreme August heat and many hotels in France do not have air-conditioning. We ended up changing hotels after our first night in Nantes; not the hotel’s fault. Nantes is a great destination to enjoy leisure activities, good food, and friendly people.

(Double-click on photos for better viewing)

Soccer in the Sun

Next Stop: Paris

Ronda

March 26-27, 2024

We have visited Ronda on a previous trip to Andalucía. It is well worth a visit or a revisit. The best way to access Ronda is by car. Since we don’t rent a car abroad, we took a taxi all the way. The ride itself goes through some stunning mountain scenery and takes about two hours. We stayed at the Parador of Ronda. Paradores are government sponsored hotels in buildings of historical significance or in locations of incomparable beauty. Ronda’s parador is of the latter type, as it is right next to the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) with fantastic views of the El Tajo (gorge) and the valley. Ronda also has a number of charming boutique hotels on its historic back streets.

Ronda is an historic town with well-preserved sites from its Islamic history, Christian Spain of the 1500’s, and the bullfighting legacy of the 1800’s. It was a stop on the “Grand Tour,” the so-named trip through Europe taken by the wealthy in the 18th and 19th centuries. A wall in Ronda memorializes the most famous of these “Viajeros Románticos” (Romantic Travelers)

Ernest Hemingway spent time in Ronda and wrote about Spanish bullfighting as an art form. (The Sun Also Rises, Death in the Afternoon, For Whom the Bell Tolls). There is a sculpture of him outside of Ronda’s bullring. Our travels these past years have been something of an unintended Hemingway pilgrimage; we have come across him in Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Pamplona, San Sebastian, Ronda, Havana, and of course, his birthplace in Oak Park, Illinois. Perhaps, surprisingly, I have not been to Key West, yet.

Filmmaker Orson Wells was also an aficionado (devoted fan) of Spain and of bullfighting. His ashes are buried in a well on the property of his friend Antonio Ordoñez of the famed Ordoñez family of bullfighters from Ronda.

Among other famous visitors to Ronda was first lady Michelle Obama. She and Sasha toured Ronda in 2019. The gardens at Casa del Rey Moro were renamed the Michelle Obama Gardens.

We took a walking tour through Ronda. Guided tours are available at the Tourist Office near the bullring. A walking tour is always helpful for getting one’s bearings and learning a bit of history. Our tour guide pointed out several buildings and suggested we return later to visit the interiors. I realized that Ronda, while small and walkable (if you don’t mind hills) could take days to fully appreciate.

The Plaza de Toros (Bull Ring) has an entire museum devoted to the history and culture of bullfighting. We spent a couple of hours touring the ring and the museum. Ronda is Spain’s oldest bullring. Ronda sponsors one bullfight each year: the corrida goyesca during the Feria de Pedro Romero in early September. Most of Spain’s remaining bullrings are in Andalucía in the south. Bullfighting has declined in popularity and is very expensive to maintain. Therefore, many towns with a ring host one “corrida” per year during a spring or summer festival .

We only stayed in Ronda one night, but we maximized our time despite some rain and some chilly temps. In two visits to Ronda we have not had a bad meal. In 2019, Bill and I enjoyed dinner at Pedro Romero’s . On this trip, we had a light snack in the lounge at Hotel Catalonia, which has a bird’s eye view of the bullring. We enjoyed a pre-dinner glass of wine at the Parador with its stunning views of the gorge and New Bridge. We had a wonderful dinner at Albacara in the small and charming Hotel Montelirio. Ronda boasts a number of quality restaurants with great views and renowned chefs. But you can also eat well by popping into one of the small local bar/ restaurants and ordering the menu of the day.

Gibraltar

March 23, 2024

On a clear day in Estepona the rocky outline of Gibraltar is visible from the beach. On a very clear day, one can see the shores of Africa and the line of ships waiting to pass through the Straits of Gibraltar. It is a sight I never tire of!

There is an Avanza bus everyday at 10:00 am from Estepona to La Línea (the line) for a price of about 6 euros. The trip is non-stop and takes 45 minutes. Of course if you have a car, you can drive there on good highways. I don’t know what the parking situation is like.

Bill and I and our friend Liz went on a Saturday. It was our second time there and Liz’ first. If you are in the Costa del Sol, you should go. It is an experience! After arrival at the bus station in La Línea, you walk toward ” the rock” to the Passport control building at the border. Don’t expect any signs pointing you there. Spain does its best to ignore that chunk of Britain sitting on their shores.

You will go through Spanish Border Control first and then British; the reverse on your way back. Upon exiting the building, follow the crowd to St. Christopher’s Gate where you wait for the green light to cross the runway. Yes, runway. The entrance to Gibraltar is on the other side of the airport. If a flight is taking off or landing, you will wait until it has finished, and then walk across the runway. You are expected to keep moving, but most people can’t resist taking a selfie of this unique experience.

Once you have crossed, there will be taxis and tour buses hoping for your business. We chose to walk into the village first. It is a bit of a walk and not really marked, so just follow the other walkers. Eventually you will arrive at the landport and once you walk through that, you emerge into the village square of Gibraltar. You are in Britain now with English pubs touting pints and fish and chips, English menus and English speakers. However, the restaurants in the square also serve good Spanish coffee and breakfast choices to please both sides of the border. We took a nice coffee break at an outdoor table and then strolled through town. Shops line both sides of the street selling jewelry, liquor, Cuban cigars, tobacco products, candy, perfumes, souvenirs, t-shirts, etc. It reminds me of the duty free shops at Heathrow Airport, only outside. There was even a parade through town, complete with bagpipers.

After enjoying the lively Saturday street life for a while, we signed up for a small group van tour. Our guide was Mohammed (Mo), a delightful young man of Moroccan heritage, born and raised in Gibraltar. He plays professional basketball for a local club and gives tours in his free time. We went to five locations that would have been very difficult to do on our own. While driving from place to place, he entertained us with stories and historical information, and patiently answered our constant questions. We shared the tour with a very nice couple from Wales who were there on a cruise. Our highlights included The Pillars of Hercules, Saint Michael’s Cave, The Tunnels in the Rock, The Skywalk, and the Nature Reserve.

The Nature Reserve is home to the Barbary Macaques, sometimes referred to as the Barbary Apes, but they are not monkeys. The macaques are protected and fed by the reserve rangers. Tourists should not touch them or feed them, but they are very comfortable with people and will pose for pictures. They will also attempt to enter vehicles, steal food and water bottles, phones, eyeglasses, etc.

The Pillars of Hercules and the Skywalk offer panoramic views of the Straits and the Port of Gibraltar far below. Unfortunately, we were there on a cloudy day, so the vista was foggy, but still awe-inspiring. Large container ships are lined up to pass through the strait.

St Michael’s Cave is a natural cave within the Rock of Gibraltar. It was once believed to be the entrance to hell at the edge of the known world. Today it welcomes tourists with light shows on the rocks and occasional concerts in the natural amphitheatre.

The tunnels were built during World War II to house supplies and soldiers, and to shoot canons from narrow openings blasted from the rock.

**The Landport Entrance**
**( footbridge)**

Gibraltar Village on a Saturday

Caves and Tunnels

A day trip to Gibraltar is a unique and worthwhile experience. It is unique! Thank you for reading.

Geri

Next Post: Ronda

Estepona 2024

February 1- April 1

This place is so great I hesitate to promote it! But now that “The Bachelor” has filmed here, I guess the secret is out.

This is our fifth winter stay in Estepona. We were here for two weeks back in 2018 and we have returned each year, except for the Pandemic year in 2021. Each time, we have stayed longer than the year before. Last year, we spent the month of March, the year before that, the month of February. This time, February and March. Two months has allowed us to really settle in and establish some routines and a relaxed pace to life. In other words, enjoying retirement while living like a local.

Because we know this town, when I found this year’s apartment listing, I knew it was a great spot at a good price and I booked it for two months. We don’t rent a car, so we need a location that is walkable to the beach, restaurants, groceries, etc. This has been perfect! I never tire of seeing the sunrise on the Mediterranean from our front balcony.

We joined the local health club (Supera) and we swim laps there three mornings a week. It is a mile walk to get there with a steep hill at the end, so overall it’s a good workout. Because we are now regulars at the pool, the local swimmers greet us and we feel accepted.

We go to yoga class with Nettie (http://www.nirmalayogaspain.com) two mornings a week. The class is outdoors on a beautiful stretch of grass along the shore. The palm trees sway above us, the water sparkles in the sunlight, and on clear days we have a fabulous view of Gibraltar and the shores of Morocco. One day, a couple of dolphins swam past. Nettie is a wonderful instructor and a beautiful person. After class, we have coffee with our yoga friends.

We have met a friendly group of expats who reside here in Estepona full time. They have welcomed us into their group and we get together to play games and share meals, drinks and a lot of laughs. It is a true blessing to make new friends at this stage of life and to enjoy this wonderful place with them.

Our friend Liz came over from Chicago this month and we have been enjoying showing her around Spain. We have toured Madrid, Estepona, Ronda, Gibraltar, and La Línea. This post focuses on Estepona, so I’ll cover the other spots separately. Liz’s enthusiasm for everything is contagious, and Bill and I have loved having her company on our adventures,

Below: Some views of the water and the Sierra Bermeja.

Views From El Mirador (The Lookout)

The Mirador had its Grand Opening the night before we left town last year. It is a beautiful addition to Estepona. An elevator ride to the 360 degree view on 10th floor costs one euro. The Art Gallery on first level is a beautiful space. Currently, they have a Goya exhibit featuring 85 of his etchings themed “The Disasters of War.” While not a happy subject, it is quite timely and important. We visited twice for an entrance fee of three euros and we had the gallery to ourselves both times.

Shots Taken on a Sunday Stroll

**Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios**

A Day Trip to Casares

Casares is a small village in the mountains about a 45 minute drive from Estepona. We don’t drive abroad, so we took a taxi to visit Casares and the Dolmenes de Corominas (see below). Casares is one of the Pueblos Blancos (White Villages) of Andalucía. Like much of southern Spain it was inhabited by Phoenicians thousands of years ago, was later settled by the Romans, and later captured by Muslims. Remains of the 12th century Muslim castle can be visited today. In the 15th century, it was recaptured by the Christians. Casares is the birthplace of Blas Infante, an important 19th century writer and politician. There were very few visitors on the day we were there.We enjoyed walking through the scenic narrow streets on the steep uphill climb to the cemetery and castle ruins at the top of the hill. Huge birds of prey soar above the trees amid the spectacular views. We enjoyed a coffee with the town residents down in the square before meeting our taxi to the Dolmenes de Corominas for the 12:00 pm tour.

Dolmenes de Corominas

This archeological site and museum is less than a half hour outside Estepona. Call ahead to book your visit, otherwise you may find yourself outside of a locked museum. The information on the website is not reliable. However it is worth a visit to experience a 5,000 year old burial site. The tombs were discovered in 2001 during the construction of a highway. The Dolmenes (tombs) were moved and recreated at the current location. Archeologists continue to study this prehistoric find. Our guide was very knowledgeable and gave us a thorough tour, sharing his immense knowledge and enthusiasm.

Above: Photos of Many Happy Outings and Scrumptious Meals with Liz in Estepona

Below: Thank you Paul for taking us on a drive to La Línea for lunch at Tip Top. (Michelin quality cuisine at reasonable prices)

Easter is early this year, so we were in Estepona for Holy Week (Semana Santa). We were able to witness the Holy Thursday procession from the Chapel of the Virgen del Carmen through the streets of Estepona. Semana Santa processions have taken place all over Spain since the middle ages, especially in traditional Andalucía. The hooded figures have a creepiness to them due to their similarity to Ku Klux Klan. However, their historical significance was to allow anonymity to those taking a pilgrimage of atonement. Religious traditions are part of the culture of Spain.

The Orchidarium is a conservatory of orchids and research center in Estepona. For a few euros and an hour of your time, you can enjoy seeing amazing blooms in a beautiful setting.

Our winter in Spain is winding down. We have one last celebratory dinner tonight at The Boab Tree. It is raining today, which makes this a good day to catch up on blogging and to begin the process of packing up from a three month journey. A few of my clothing items won’t make the return trip; I will donate them here. It has been a great adventure, but it will be good to get home.

Thank you for following my blog! I would love to hear from you. Happy travels.

My recommendations are based solely on my own experience. I am independent and unpaid. Geri

Los Gigantes, (The Giants) Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

January 15-23, 2024

After four pleasant nights in Santa Cruz, we had our hotel arrange a taxi to drive us to our next destination on the other side of the island. A bus will get you there, but we treated ourselves to the comfort of a car. It cost $140 Euros and took about an hour and a half. Our driver was friendly and answered my questions about Tenerife as we traveled. He delivered us to our address, a huge apartment complex on a steep hill. After a few minutes of confusion, we found the front entrance to our building and contacted our Air B@B host. Shortly after, she arrived to get us settled in. The apartment was an attractive one bedroom unit with the biggest and most comfortable terrace we have ever had. I loved sitting out there in the morning watching the sun slowly burn the mist off of the cliffs.

Our neighborhood was located between the towns of Los Gigantes and Puerto de Santiago. There was a small grocery and a few restaurants nearby and a number of other options a short walk UPHILL from us. The hills were steep like San Francisco, so it was a bit challenging for us flatlanders.

These are some views from our neighborhood strolls!

I am fascinated by small churches in small villages. On the shore at the bottom of a steep cliff in Puerto de Santiago is a tiny chapel dedicated to the local fishermen and their patron saint, La Virgen del Carmen. It stands in contrast to the tourist apartments above.

The fishing industry has been severely impacted by climate change, pollution, overfishing, and tourism. Tourism fuels the economy, but too often at the cost of the local ecosystem and lifestyle. I love to travel, yet hate to leave a negative impact and I don’t know where the solution lies. Some tranquil fishing villages remain on Tenerife despite the encroachment of large hotels and attractions. In these towns you can appreciate natural beauty and eat really fresh seafood.

One morning, we took a bus to the village of Playa San Juan (Saint John Beach), about thirty minutes south of Los Gigantes. En route we passed many hotels and apartment complexes, beach coves, restaurants, and shopping. From the highway, we viewed fenced banana groves that extend from mountain to sea. When we got to San Juan, we walked through town to the sea walk, port, and beach. We enjoyed coffee at one café, ice cream at another, and lunch at the popular Agua y Sal. Agua y Sal opens at 12:30 for lunch and customers gather outside around 12:10. Once the doors open, you request your table and get in line at the fish counter. The menu is on the board, whatever has been caught that morning. You point or tell the counter worker what you want and he plops it into a plastic tray, notes your table number and sends it to the kitchen. The table server takes your drink order and delivers your food, and later your bill. The system is quite efficient, the ambience is friendly and the seafood is fabulous. We shared grilled vegetables, mussels, and sea scallops.

Playa Chica in Puerto Santiago. (See the church?)

Bill was determined to take a dip in the natural pool near us in Los Gigantes. We waited for a day when the sea was calm. I was tempted join him, but was intimidated by the slippery rocks. When we got there, I decided I would stay out and take the photos. Bill reported that the water was warmer than the pool at our apartment, but that the rocks were slick with moss. He enjoyed his dip in the Atlantic.

Photos of Bill’s Plunge in the Natural Pool!

During our stay in Los Gigantes, we booked two excursions with Steve at Top Ten Excursions. He works with the local tour companies and helps the customer to pick the ones that best meet their needs. He took the time to explain each excursion and help us narrow it down to two that appealed to us: a small group sunset and stargazing experience with Stargazing Tenerife and a small group all day island tour with Francois and his chihuahua Chica. Both tours were fun and informative. We enjoyed the company of our fellow adventurers, learned more about the island, and covered much more territory than we could have on our own. A trip to Tenerife should include Mount Teide National Park. Mt. Teide is an active volcano that last erupted in 1909 and the highest peak in Spain at an elevation of 3,715 meters. The road that goes up the mountain is well-maintained, but includes some dramatic edges and narrow curves. I recommend being a passenger with an experienced local guide, allowing you to enjoy the breathtaking scenery. Bring the warmest gear you have; it’s cold up there.

On our sunset and stars tour, we stopped at the sunset location and our guide Miguel determined that it was too cloudy to see much, so we moved to a spot above the clouds. The changing light through the trees and on Teide was amazing! While we took photos, Miguel and Phil set up the huge telescopes. Then we just had to wait until it was dark enough; it was a lot like waiting for the fireworks on the 4th of July. Because the moon was close to full, we couldn’t see everything, but for us, it was remarkable. We are accustomed to so much light pollution that we never see a sky like that. Our guides used laser pointers to show us the constellations that we could see with the naked eye and had us look through the lens at certain planets, like Saturn. The viewing lasted about an hour, we took a hot chocolate break (Yay!), posed for our photo under the stars, and then we were all ready to get in the warm van and head back down the mountain to call it a night.

Our second excursion was an all day tour with Francois which included several stops around the island. Our first stop was Masca, a hamlet in the mountains. We indulged in barraquitos, a Canarian coffee drink with a little Licor 43 layered in with espresso, condensed milk and foam. Then we strolled through Masca and photographed the stunning scenery. Besides agave plants (not the tequila variety, apparently), Masca doesn’t appear to have much life sustaining agriculture. Most of the young people have moved down to the coast and tourism remains the only industry. There are a few restaurants and gift shops, but overall it was quiet when we visited.

We made a brief stop at Buenavista del Norte, where we looked in one direction at the dry desert landscape of the southwest side of Tenerife and in the opposite direction at the green, lush, rainier side of the island. Tenerife has twenty or more microclimates.

Our next stop was Garachico, one of the oldest settlements in the Canaries. During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries it was a thriving seaport. A volcanic eruption in 1706 destroyed most of the town. It was rebuilt, and today it is a charming fishing village known for its natural setting and historic architecture. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of fresh fish next to the rocky beach in the shadow of the castle.

Then, we went on to Icod de los Vinos, yet another lovely town on the northwest coast. The town has some beautiful homes in the traditional Canarian style and an attractive tree lined main square, but its main attraction is the El Drago Milenio (The Millennium Dragon). The Dragon, a plant native to the Canaries, is estimated to be close to 1,000 years old.

Next, we went to Mt. Teide National Park, this time to a spot much closer to Teide itself. We enjoyed strolling through the volcanic landscape and admiring the otherworldly shapes created by lava rock. We enjoyed coffee on the patio of The Parador, which has a great view of the volcano. Paradores are Spanish national hotels that are either converted historic buildings or built in amazing geographical locations. This one is literally at the foot of Mount Teide within the national park. It provides good access to the many hiking trails and to the cable car that goes up the mountain. In order to ride the cable car, you must be there before 9:00 am and have an advance ticket. I don’t think it was running when we were in the area due to wind conditions. Anyone wishing to hike to the summit needs to apply for a permit well in advance. That type of hiking is not for us, but a night at the parador and a cable car ride could be.

We made one last stop to view the coast from above and to watch the sunset, but it was cloudy and started raining. We did get a rainbow, though! After a ten hour tour we were happy to get home to rest. The tour was well worth it.

Here Are Some More Photos From The Island Tour.

Thank you for reading. I hope you are inspired to experience Tenerife for yourself. Please know that my articles only reflect my own opinions and experiences. I am not paid to promote any businesses I might mention. Geri

Next: Playa de las Américas (January 23-31)

Adventures In The South Goes To Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

On January 9th, we escaped (barely) the Chicago winter. It was snowing at O’Hare Airport and I wondered if our flight would be canceled. It was not, but many were in the days to follow. After a somewhat turbulent flight, we arrived safely in Madrid the next morning. We checked into The Radisson Blu Hotel near The Prado. Manuel at the front desk served us coffee while we waited for our room, recommended Los Gatos for a light lunch, made us a dinner reservation at El Barril de las Letras, and arranged a taxi back to the airport for our flight to Tenerife the next morning. The weather in Madrid was cool, but pleasant and we spent an enjoyable afternoon strolling the area. After a shower and a rest, we were on Spanish time and headed out for an 8:30 dinner; late for us, early by Madrid standards. We stopped for a drink in the cocktail lounge at The Westin Palace Hotel. It is an iconic landmark, built for the wedding reception of King Alfonso XII in 1912. Since then it has been frequented by a number of celebrities, including Ernest Hemingway. The bartenders were professional and friendly and the manager was happy to answer our questions and let us take a look around. Then we enjoyed a delicious dinner at El Barril. We have been to Madrid multiple times and it always feels like an old friend while offering opportunities for new experiences.

The next morning, we flew to Santa Cruz, Tenerife for a four night stay in the island’s capital. Many tourists skip Santa Cruz in their rush to get to the resorts on the other side of the island; for others it is a port of call on their cruise itinerary. We are retired, and therefore have the luxury of time. We enjoyed leisurely strolls in the very walkable historic section, great meals at reasonable prices, and excursions to nearby towns. We stayed at The AC Santa Cruz. The location was perfect and the room was small, but comfortable. The rooftop bar and pool area offers a great view of the city, good drinks and tapas. The party on the roof goes until 1:00 am, so some nights our room was noisy.

On our first night in Santa Cruz, we were fortunate enough to walk in and get a table at La Hierbita. Built in 1893, it was the first restaurant in the city. The front room is a bar with a few tables and the back area, once the brothel, is now an additional dining room. The menu features fresh seafood and other local options. Canarian cuisine is a fusion of traditional Spanish, Moroccan, tropical island produce and international influences. We shared a salad, roasted octopus ( the specialty of the house), and a bottle of Canarian red wine. We enjoyed chatting with the three young French gentlemen pictured above. The one in the center reminded me of a young Johnny Depp.

Colorful buildings in the Historic center

The next morning, we discovered La Escala, a corner coffee shop in the back streets of the historic district. The setting retains its old world charm, while offering an array of tempting coffee drinks and healthy, delicious breakfast options. Next, we headed to the market to have a look around. The bridge which leads to that side of the city was crowded with people walking in both directions. The market itself was bustling. I love the atmosphere of foreign markets! Too bad we just had breakfast, because there are always good eating options.

After strolling the market, we headed across the street to sit in the shady square and observe the locals and the tourists. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the great weather and the slower pace of life. We chatted with a friendly German couple who were there on a cruise of the islands.

On our walk back from the market, we stopped at the Museum of Fine Arts. The building was once part of the adjoining church and later was the public library until the new one was built. Admission was free and there were only a few visitors. We enjoyed their collection of paintings and sculpture.

After a full day and of strolling through Santa Cruz, we took an evening walk to see the lights of the city. We passed the site where British Admiral Horatio Nelson led an attack on the city in 1797. Nelson lost his right arm and Tenerife remained under Spanish control. We had dinner at La Concepción, the restaurant nearest the church. In Spanish towns, we have always found a good local restaurant next to the church. At La Concepción, we enjoyed Canarian food and wine and the company of the friendly locals at the next table.

Historical Banner Commemorating the battle with the British

On Saturday, our third day in town, we took the tram to La Laguna, a historic town 40 minutes away. It was originally the capital of Tenerife and was the home of many wealthy merchants. It’s grid of streets was the model for Spanish colonial cities in the Americas. The town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The colorful buildings and beautiful balconies create a charming backdrop to the many sidewalk cafés. We had a delightful lunch at a small Lebanese café.

We visited the Museum of Tenerife History, housed in a 16th century mansion. There we were able to gain some historical context for our trip. The Canary Islands were vital to Spain’s conquest of the New World, because they were the last port before the Atlantic crossing to Cuba. They were vital to the trade in goods and later in slaves. Slaves from mainland Africa were brought to Tenerife to be loaded onto ships bound for the colonies. The museum also explained the various industries in Tenerife: sugar cane, tobacco, winemaking, blacksmithing, carpentry, textiles, and agriculture. Today the island’s economy is mainly banana production and tourism.

The Holy Cross used in the first mass that gave the city its name

On Sunday morning we attended mass at La Iglesia de la Concepción in Santa Cruz. It was sparsely attended. Then we took the bus to Playa de las Teresitas, about 30 minutes outside the city. The route is not very scenic; we passed a number of oil storage tanks. The beach itself is manmade with golden sand brought in from the Sahara. It is a beautiful setting with the mountains protecting the cove from strong winds. The water was calm and we saw open water swimmers, paddleboarders, and a sport that looked to be beach pickleball. After a couple of delightful hours on the beach, we walked to the nearby fishing village and enjoyed some delicious grilled fish at a local restaurant. Then we got back on the bus for the trip back to the city.

The next morning we packed up to taxi to our next destination on the other side of the island. I’ll leave you with some final shots of Santa Cruz.