From Malaga to Marrakech (February 10, 2023)

Adventures In the South of Spain Goes Further South- To Morocco!

Double click on photos for larger view.

Ticket on Ryan Air -$100 Euros each plus fees for the privilege of carrying on a small cabin bag. Pay that fee when you buy your ticket, because it’s super- expensive to add it later. Does anyone travel with NO luggage? $35 Euros for said cabin bag purchased at the “China Store” (Sorry, that’s what the Spaniards call it) in Valencia. The suitcase is lightly packed with tiny toiletries and light weight clothing; leaving room for a few purchases.

The flight was short and uneventful. Oh, except for the announcement, ” Is anyone onboard a doctor?” A young man across the aisle from us answered the call and headed back a few rows to attend to a woman who was experiencing dizziness. Next, there was a call for a blood pressure cuff and perhaps a sugar packet. It seems that a basic first aid kit was not on board, but the duty-free cart still made its way down the aisle. Fortunately, after landing, the ill passenger was able to walk to the front of the plane for her wheelchair ride to a waiting ambulance.

I had passed much of the time chatting with the Morrocan businessman next to us. He gave me a few tips about Morocco, and the story of his nine children from various ex-wives in various countries. He was proud to tell me of his American family in LA.

Passport control was easy; we have our first stamp from the African continent! I had to keep reminding myself that I was really in Africa.

A driver was waiting for us with a sign for Riad Hazid. This was only the second time in my life, I have been met with a sign. The first time was Beijiing 2008. Both times, it was a welcome comfort.

The ride through the city was amazing! So many people and so many motorcycles! The “new city” outside of the Medina (old city) is large and modern. Once we entered the walled city, it was as if we had crossed a portal to the past; long past. The streets are narrow alleyways lined with endless souks (shops) and motorbikes are whizzing past everyone on foot. We parked at the Ben Youssef Mosque, where a young lady from the Riad met us and walked us to our lodging. A short walk, but long enough to have me wondering just what the hell we had gotten ourselves into. We turned down an even narrower alleyway with crumbling walls and pavement; then stopped at a door marked number 80. That’s all. This is it.

Inside portal number 80, was a haven of quiet luxury. We met with Sana, who served mint tea and cookies in a cozy lounge area, while she registered us. She also provided us with maps and the very helpful Maps.me app. She downloaded the Medina area to our phones and now we could access directions offline. During our four-night stay, she assisted us with train reservations, dinner reservations, a local guide, taxi drivers, and one unforgettable Tuk-Tuk ride (more about that later). She also cooked and served breakfast every morning. There were moments when her attentiveness bordered on overbearing, but if there was ever a time to upgrade our travel style, this was the time. We settled into our room, and then headed up to explore the rooftop. There was a pool with extremely cold water. Since the weather outside was a comfortable 70 degrees Fahrenheit, we never felt the need to take the plunge, but we did enjoy the lounge chairs a few times.

Now it was time to find lunch. Sana recommended Cafe Spice, so with Maps.me on Bill’s phone, we headed out for our first solo Medina adventure. Without Bill’s tech skills and sense of direction, I probably would never have left the Riad. Walking single-file on the right, looking down to avoid tripping on crumbled tiles, hoping not to get whacked by a motorcycle, it was difficult to take everything in; let alone to photograph it. The Medina is one big marketplace with stall after stall selling food and handicrafts. The vendors weren’t as pushy as I expected, and I never felt threatened or uncomfortable. We are obviously foreigners and tourists, so attempting to blend is impossible. But since Morocco’s economy depends on tourism, most Moroccans our welcoming. Many speak excellent English and seem to generally like the U.S.A. There are strict laws against harming a tourist. Still, it is wise to keep your wallet and phone secured and your wits about you. As to wardrobe, visiting women do not need to cover their hair, but it is respectful to cover your shoulders and knees.

We found Café Des ´´Epices ( Spice Cafe) in the Square of Spices. Lunch was tasty and reasonable, and the dining room has a great view of the square. The clientele was mostly tourists. After lunch, we strolled around the square; I was beginning to feel more comfortable. We found our way to Jamaa el Fna Square, commonly known as The Big Square. This is where you will find ATM machines for changing money; you will need cash in Morocco! In Marrakech, most restaurants will take credit cards, but in Fez and Chefchauen, many places were cash only. The Moroccan dirham is about 10 to the dollar, so 100 dirham is 10 dollars. It is a good idea to get some small bills and coins for tipping, although the ATM machine will give you only big bills. The Big Square is also where you will find snake charmers, musicians, street food, and sellers of everything! It’s a bit sleepy during the day, but come back at night when things get really wild. The whole square is smoky with food cooking, people are dancing to drum beats, and gambling games abound.

After the Big Square, we headed back to Riad Hizad for a late afternoon siesta. Sana reserved a table for us at Le Foundouk for a French/ Morrocan fusion dinner. The atmosphere was lovely, the food very good, and they had a nice wine list. We tried a Moroccan red. Morocco produces some good wines, even though they are a Muslim country. Since they were previously French territory, French is still widely spoken, and there is a definite tolerance for European ways. I mention this, because later in our trip, adult beverages were basically unavailable.

That wraps up Day 1 of our Moroccan adventure. I’ll leave you with some more photos. Tune into my next post for “Adventures with Omar.”